door striker wedge

66gtk · #1 (**permalink**) 09-30-2014, 04:14 PM

This striker wedge was loose and came off in my hand after trying to figure out why my door wouldn't shut consistently. Can't figure out how to secure it back on. Any advise?

MFE III · #2 (**permalink**) 09-30-2014, 04:37 PM

this pic should help

MOTORHEAD · #3 (**permalink**) 09-30-2014, 06:12 PM

Is that stud threaded, then helicoil the hole. If it was pressed into the piece it was in, you could press it back in, then drill thru the piece and stud and put a roll pin in it.
Or just buy a new one, although it's probably sold as a set.

DanEC · #4 (**permalink**) 09-30-2014, 07:49 PM

I thought they were threaded pieces. Guess I'm about to learn something new.

strictlypersonl · #5 (**permalink**) 10-01-2014, 06:16 AM

I've never seen the stud separated from the striker. I've always assumed that it was cast into the striker. If it has come apart, the whole striker assembly must be replaced.

66gtk · #6 (**permalink**) 10-01-2014, 06:59 AM

Here's a photo of the "other" side. As you can see there are a handful of washers that help to space out the striker so it aligns. I assumed that was done during fine tuning of the assembly - suggesting that the wedge MUST be able to be removed and put back in. If it was "cast", why would there be adjust ability via washers?

I'm wondering if I can weld it somehow back together until I get a new assembly. It's almost as if there should be a set screw of some kind holding this thing on, but there isn't. See the other photos that show a close up of the "non threaded" area. I'm trying to figure out a way to drive this car on SATURDAY for a final event of the season.

66gtk · #7 (**permalink**) 10-01-2014, 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MOTORHEAD

Is that stud threaded, then helicoil the hole. If it was pressed into the piece it was in, you could press it back in, then drill thru the piece and stud and put a roll pin in it.
Or just buy a new one, although it's probably sold as a set.

This seems to make the most sense right now, but I must ask myself why this wasn't done in the first place. I can't help but feel I'm missing something here... Of course I don't have the capability to do this myself with my tool set.

Racer_X · #8 (**permalink**) 10-01-2014, 07:16 AM

With the knurling on the pin and the corresponding knurl marks inside the hole, it was just a press fit. Press it back in and drill thru the side for a roll pin to pin it back into place until you can get a new one.

MOTORHEAD · #9 (**permalink**) 10-01-2014, 07:36 AM

I see both pieces are splined to prevent rotation of the stud. You might try pressing the stud back in with some Locktite Red.

p.s. It's the same latch used on many old british cars, such as the MG "t" series. Call one of the vendors ( Victoria British, Moss Motors, or the like ) and have them o'nite one to you, or better yet, check with a local British/ sports car repair/restoration shop, they might have one laying around.

Good luck !
Ted

66gtk · #10 (**permalink**) 10-01-2014, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MOTORHEAD

I see both pieces are splined to prevent rotation of the stud. You might try pressing the stud back in with some Locktite Red.

Yep, and they are stripped as rotation is easily possible now if I'm simply using the pressure of my hands to press it in and rotate. Is there a special way/tool to to "press fit" these back together? I'm not familiar with press fit connections. How about some JB weld?

frdfver · #11 (**permalink**) 10-01-2014, 07:51 AM

Take a center punch and where the splines are make 2 or 3 punch marks to expand it until you start to get a tight fit. Then press it back in with some lock tight or JB weld, unscrew the nut add necessary washers to align put all back, tighten nut...

Paul T.

MOTORHEAD · #12 (**permalink**) 10-01-2014, 07:57 AM

If its loose enough to turn by hand, there might be room for some jb weld.
Someone must have over torqued the nut to break the stud loose. Do you know someone with a drill press that can pin it for you, or check a local machine shop. is your car an ERA? If so, call them for a new part.
Did you see my PS on my previous post?

KirkV · #13 (**permalink**) 10-01-2014, 09:51 AM

center punch it a stated before to expand the metal on the shaft and you can always JB Weld the shaft back to the hole!

DanEC · #14 (**permalink**) 10-01-2014, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 66gtk

Here's a photo of the "other" side. As you can see there are a handful of washers that help to space out the striker so it aligns. I assumed that was done during fine tuning of the assembly - suggesting that the wedge MUST be able to be removed and put back in. If it was "cast", why would there be adjust ability via washers.

That's what I thought also. Matter of fact, I think there is a passage in the ERA manual about making adjustments to the striker by separating that piece and moving washers from front to rear or vice-versa(?) to fine tune the latch. On second though, I guess it's the end at the nut that may be threaded. It looks like it has some striations like a wheel stud. You might try epoxing it with some good 2-part epoxy adhesive. Not sure if that would hold up very long or not.

66gtk · #15 (**permalink**) 10-01-2014, 01:46 PM

Well folks, I used my handy bench vise and some locktite to try and repress the fitting. Seems to hold without trying to pull it apart - got it re-installed and tested the door, cranked on it, etc... Hopefully it will hold until I can get another part. Thanks for all the help!

Rick Parker · #16 (**permalink**) 10-01-2014, 04:28 PM

If the wedge is ferrous (magnetic) sugggest you have someone qualified silver solder the pieces together, it will never come apart again. # 242 Red Locktite is good but it may not take the repeated pounding. Try to avoid slamming the door shut if you currently are (?) this is not an intended criticizm. Pull it closed from about 4 inches.