Turn signals blowing fuse #4 - ERA 782

[DanEC]

Anyone buy one of these in the past? Seems to be a wide range of prices $42 up to $290.

98-9576-B Turn Signal Switch, Type 1, 62-67, Ghia,62-67, Black (OE P/N: 141 953 517F) vw parts, vw, parts, volkswagen, volkswagon, vwparts, aircooled,air-cooled,air cooled, volkswagen parts, bug parts, beetle, beatle, aircooled parts, vintage parts,b

VW Turn Signal Switch, 1966-67 Type 1, (Dimmer Switch Included!), SWF, 141-953-517F BK SWF - Aircooled.Net VW Parts


https://www.airheadparts.com/vintage...141953517-f-bk

https://www.airheadparts.com/vintage...141953517-f-oe

I guess it's the difference between OE and reproduction units. Anyone have some experience with a particular outlet or supplier?

Blew another fuse on the last drive.

[patrickt]

... and the fuse blows when you make the signal, correct?

[DanEC]

Yes - it's intermittent. The last time I noticed it happened I was holding down the lever to signal as I was also turning slightly into a left turn lane. I was holding the lever to prevent it from canceling as I maneuvered. I replaced the fuse and continued my drive - as long as I just flicked the lever to position to signal (not holding it in signal position) it worked OK.

Guess my question would have been better worded to say - which has the better reputation for durability - OEM or reproduction?

[Jerry Clayton]

Once worked on somebodies car( don't remember what brand--was a cobra tho) and one of the rear tail /brake lites was wired wrong and grd wire was wrong---------

Does it blow when you have brakes on with turn signal??

[patrickt]

Here's a simple test that I think will work. Pull the yellow wire off the flasher, and pull the two fast blow fuses out of the fixture behind the trailer relay. Then put one lead of a test light bulb on a known good 12v positive and the other lead on the yellow wire you removed from the flasher. Then jiggle and wiggle the turn signal on and off and see if you can get the bulb to light. If you can, then you know the switch is shorting out. Oh, and remove the front turn signal bulbs first.

[DanEC]

It's the TS switch itself - I've already done the trouble shooting.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by DanEC

It's the TS switch itself - I've already done the trouble shooting.

Then go OEM -- make sure it has the German markings on the front of the switch.

[DanEC]

So, go for the $250 door on the right - I was afraid that would be the answer.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by DanEC

So, go for the $250 door on the right - I was afraid that would be the answer.

... or, you could buy the cheap knock-off and then, after installing it, start a new thread titled "WTF Is Wrong With My Electrical System?!?"

[Jerry Clayton]

or you could check the plug, bulb and wiring of the left rear light------grounds are different issue in fiberglass vehicles( and boats) and a socket with two hot wires and one grong with a blub with two elements----------

[DanEC]

Hey Bob - if you are out there - just re-read this in your post back on page 1.

"Did I ever send you a new wire module from the under-dash module to the main harness?"

Is there something I need to replace?

Jerry - I did a lot of trouble-shooting back on posts 1 - 10. I stood outside the car and replaced 3 fuses in a row - each of which blew as soon as I hit the left turn signal. I wasn't even inside the car so stepping on the brake didn't have anything to do with the problem. I isolated it down to the turn signal or dimmer relay and since it blew fuses with headlights off - that seemed to point to the turn signal switch itself. And then it cured itself until a drive I took the other day.

Patrick - possibly a good point. I doubt ERA is spending $250 for OEM switches which means this one was undoubtedly a repro.

[Jerry Clayton]

Dan----------not saying brakes had anything to do with it-I have seen this type malfunction on numerous fiberglass cars----you have a ground problem ( short? )it is in a wire off of either one of the left lights- if you have good brake lights ( remember the turn signal is by interrupting the element for the brake light)
Go to the rear light ( inside trunk ) and take the bulb out of the socket-see if the fuse blows---------

[DanEC]

Jerry - the brake and turn signals at the rear are operated by a trailer relay that is protected with 2A quick blow fuses. So far I have never blown them so I'm pretty sure if there was some sort of short at the rear lights it would blow those 2A fuses before it had a chance to blow the 20A fuse at the firewall. I did try removing the front bulbs when this first happened and was repeatedly blowing fuses. Didn't make any difference.

I spent a lot of time trying to make some LEDs work in the rear of the car. I checked and rechecked grounds and all circuits before I discovered it was the led bulbs themselves. So I went back to 2357 filament bulbs. A long story.

Also, it's a very intermittent issue - it's happened once in the last 3 drives I've taken. Works fine at the moment - can't re-create it.

[Jerry Clayton]

why aren't you using 1157 ?

[DanEC]

Jerry - the 2357 bulb is the same pin style as an 1157 bulb. The running light filament is basically the same so not much advantage for that - but the brake and turn signal filament is about 25% brighter. It has the disadvantage of having a shorter life. Thinking about trying some Halogen bulbs. They will be pretty hot when sitting with the brake on but the rectangular tail lights are pretty open so I doubt the heat will be an issue. I've also heard they are so bright and hot they can wash the color out of the red lenses over time. Probably also not a concern with the annual mileage it gets.