Alternator / Voltage Regulator

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

davids2toys David I run mine MSD directly to the battery with a fusable link of 40 amps on the + side. I do have a master battery cut off for the car that kills everything but power to my ECU. There have been other threads on here about how much power a 6AL module uses. I am in the 8-12 amp range and the Spike of the system I have not done. If the module draws so little ampage from the electrical system, then why is 12# gauge wiring being used?? I had a problem with high resistance when I first finished the car. You need good grounds with FI systems. I moved the battery to the trunk and main connection was in the trunk. Problem was the motor and trans are isolated with rubber mounts. Yes there is a ground wire on the ERA but FI systems need more. If you do the bolts through the motor mounts and have clean areas of contact this will work OK. I overkill things. I Have 2 grounds to the motor. 1 to the block and one to the head R/S. It is important that the thread holes be clean and no paint on the ground areas. I have a Shelby block and heads of aluminum and it is not the best conductor of juice.
Side note for MSD, I mounted my unit under the glove box with my ECU for the FI system. The R/S foot ducting blows fresh air on both modules to help keep cool. I know that these MSD module gets hot. I had a failure of a new one from working on the car and welding to the frame without unhooking the battery. Good thing it was covered by warranty and fixed for free. I don't know if Pat is right or wrong, I followed the manual for installation, 15 years of racing with same box. Cap and rotor in the distributor, that's a different story, carry spares. Rick L. Ps I also have spare MSD and complete distributor and basic tools to install, just in case. Last note, I solder and climp connectors on my wire ends and use shrink tubing to weather proof sealing. I also use star washers that add bite to a connection and help reduce resistance there. Spraying a connection with grease, paint, undercoating, or sealer, The jury is still out on this. I do use electric dye grease on all my connections. It seals connections and no loss of resistance to that connection. It's a GM fix for years with out side connections under the car or truck. Good luck.

Rick,
I like and believe a little overkill is a good thing...better safe than sorry. I have always sprayed down battery connections with that colored grease, but never the other connections, I think that is a great idea, probably will use dielectric grease though.
As far as the grounds go, I do not have FI or an ECU but I still think the multiple grounds is a good way to go. What I have now is battery to frame in the back. Small black wire from pass head to firewall. 1 " wide braided strap tranny to frame. I would like to run an addition grounding strap engine block to frame and driver head to frame. Maybe even the manifold to frame. Is it OK to run multiple ground straps or wires to the same grounding point on the frame?

Any idea what that rating is for CB on the firewall . Since my POS MSD wire is going there, is that basically acting the same way your fusible link is doing on your set-up?

Planned on soldering and using shrink tube on the splices. Do you think that is necessary on the terminal ends also. I always have heard that a good crimp was sufficient?

Thanks...Dave