Steering shaft play/ turn signal switch

wolf k · #1 (**permalink**) 03-10-2017, 06:33 AM

I am working on a customers ERA which has quite a bit of radial play in the steering shaft at the steering wheel. The upper nylon bushing is in place and appears to be in good condition. No wear on the shaft, just a lot of clearance between the two. Someone posted about shimming this bushing, I believe it was DanC? Can you describe where/how you shimmed?

Also the turn signal lever cancels too easily, have to hold the lever as you turn the wheel so that it doesn't cancel. The lever does latch, but very lightly. It does not take much force to cancel. Is there a fix, or just purchase a new one? Source of these switches for Cobras are all the same?

Thanks, Wolfgang

DanEC · #2 (**permalink**) 03-10-2017, 08:33 AM

As I remember I took some plastic blister pack film and cut a strip as shim stock to wrap the outside of the bushing with to tighten it up. I'm not sure I could go around 360 degrees and kind of had to experiment to trim it to a length that I could still seat in the column. It seemed to work at first but my wheel seems to have a little more play in it now so I'm wondering if it worked it's way back out.

My turn signal switch is kind of touchy - it doesn't have much space between the canceling positions and I worked to get it as centered as I could. Still, sometimes just a minor steering correction as I approach a corner like moving into a turn lane will cancel it. Is that their problem?

I replaced mine a couple years ago after the original had some contact problems inside. It's a VW part and I doubt a new one will function much differently. Also it will probably arrive in some ugly green-gray color and have to be sprayed to match the column.

There are a couple pictures of the internals in this thread but I don't know if they will be of enough detail to see if you can make your own correction or improvement.

Anyone replace their turn signal switch?

wolf k · #3 (**permalink**) 03-11-2017, 06:15 AM

Got it I think, just to be clear, you removed the bushing and shimmed between the OD of the bushing and the ID of the column? the bushing must be split then, to be able to shrink it.
I am not able to lay eyes on at the moment it to confirm.

Interesting, nobody else having turn signal switch issues, I must have a weak one. Where did you source your new switch?

DanEC · #4 (**permalink**) 03-11-2017, 07:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolf k

Got it I think, just to be clear, you removed the bushing and shimmed between the OD of the bushing and the ID of the column? the bushing must be split then, to be able to shrink it.
I am not able to lay eyes on at the moment it to confirm.

Yes, it was a piece of rectangular shim stock to fit between the bushing and the ID of the column. The original bushing is split. Here is an exchange with Bob on this issue a couple years ago. Not a lot of help to you but may give you some insight to the issue.
Steering column play

Interesting, nobody else having turn signal switch issues, I must have a weak one. Where did you source your new switch?

Here is where I got mine.

VW Turn Signal Switch, 1966-67 Type 1, (Dimmer Switch Included!), 141-953-517F BK - Aircooled.Net VW Parts

It seems that I ordered from another source first and it was a real piece of garbage. There are apparently a lot of sources for new ones and they range from fairly nice to down right horrible. As a matter of fact I would call Bob first and ask if they have found a current source for these that they feel are good quality. I think I called this place up and talked to them and had them go through a bunch of them trying to find one they would actually sell to a family member with a clear conscious. It seems I remember there was a great variety in pricing also. The reason ERA couldn't help me out with a switch was because they said they didn't have a supplier for them at the time that they felt confident in the quality of them. Maybe they have found one now.

Good luck

strictlypersonl · #5 (**permalink**) 03-11-2017, 07:20 AM

The bushings came from a Triumph Spitfire. We eventually abandoned that system because the bushing quality went seriously south. On inspection, I'd have to throw half of them away out of the box. They were supposed to be basically preloaded on the shaft. They might be better now. There's a part number in the back of the manual.

Boat3 · #6 (**permalink**) 03-11-2017, 08:22 AM

My turn signal lever cancels very easily as well, car only has 1,100 miles on it...

DanEC · #7 (**permalink**) 03-11-2017, 11:32 AM

Bob - what are you using now for a bushing? Is it interchangeable?

strictlypersonl · #8 (**permalink**) 03-11-2017, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanEC

Bob - what are you using now for a bushing? Is it interchangeable?

"Fraid" not. We changed the whole housing design to accommodate a standard moly/nylon bushing.

strictlypersonl · #9 (**permalink**) 03-11-2017, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolf k

Also the turn signal lever cancels too easily, have to hold the lever as you turn the wheel so that it doesn't cancel. The lever does latch, but very lightly. It does not take much force to cancel. Is there a fix, or just purchase a new one? Source of these switches for Cobras are all the same?
Thanks, Wolfgang

You can relocate the pins that do the cancelling:
1. Remove the steering wheel.
2. Remove the nut and steering wheel hub
3. There are two roll pins on the backside of the hub that trip the cancelling mechanism. Remove them.
4. Drill two new holes 90 degrees from the original location and install the pins there.

Consequently, when things are put back together, the cancelling pins will be at the top and bottom of the hub. It will take more rotation for the cancelling to take place.

DanEC · #10 (**permalink**) 03-12-2017, 06:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

"Fraid" not. We changed the whole housing design to accommodate a standard moly/nylon bushing.

Bummer - but thanks.

wolf k · #11 (**permalink**) 03-12-2017, 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

You can relocate the pins that do the cancelling:
1. Remove the steering wheel.
2. Remove the nut and steering wheel hub
3. There are two roll pins on the backside of the hub that trip the cancelling mechanism. Remove them.
4. Drill two new holes 90 degrees from the original location and install the pins there.

Consequently, when things are put back together, the cancelling pins will be at the top and bottom of the hub. It will take more rotation for the cancelling to take place.

Will do, sounds like a good plan

wolf k · #12 (**permalink**) 03-14-2017, 06:14 AM

Well, took a closer look at the turn signal lever. Definitely the issue is with the latching mechanism and not the cancelling pins. The latching detent is very weak and after taking the unit apart I do not see a good fix other than replacement.

DanEC · #13 (**permalink**) 03-14-2017, 08:56 AM

I would definitely call up a supplier and tell them you are looking for a better quality turn signal switch and see if they won't do a little quality control before sending one to you. I remember the first one I ordered off the internet operated like it was stirring rocks in a bucket. The second one seemed stiff at first but reasonably smooth - after it was mounted and the lever installed it operated fine. I also remember the prices were all over the board too and were not a reflection on quality.

wolf k · #14 (**permalink**) 03-15-2017, 06:17 AM

Thanks Dan, you got your good one from Aircooled VW, as in your link above? Happens to be the same price as the one from Finishline, surely these are from the same supplier.

DanEC · #15 (**permalink**) 03-15-2017, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolf k

Thanks Dan, you got your good one from Aircooled VW, as in your link above? Happens to be the same price as the one from Finishline, surely these are from the same supplier.

I would not bet they are from the same supplier. I think there are multiple foreign builders of these things for all the VWs built around the world over the 50 or so years. The one I used did come from Aircoolded VW. I don't think I checked with Finishline but they may be a good source. I wouldn't think they would be selling junky ones.

ERA has to come up with these for new cars so they may have a good source in hand now. A couple of years ago I think they were between sources and looking.

wolf k · #16 (**permalink**) 04-01-2017, 05:43 AM

Resolved the turn signal issue with purchase of a new signal switch. Did some research on the VW forums and most recommend a switch unit made by SWF, German made. It was a little pricey at $180, but works smooth and flawless. Terminal ends need to be changed to match ERA wiring.

ERA on the left SWF on the right

Also resolved the steering shaft play. Upon closer investigation, the nylon bearing had separated from the rubber bushing and was found loose, lower on the shaft. Superglued the bearing back into the bushing. Reassembled, all is good.

DanEC · #17 (**permalink**) 04-01-2017, 08:50 AM

I don't remember that rubber bushing but my nylon bushing was a loose fit also. There may have been a change in this over the years but I may have to check that out.

Good deal on the turn signal.

kevins2 · #18 (**permalink**) 04-02-2017, 08:30 PM

Do you have the part number for the SWF switch?

Thanks.

wolf k · #19 (**permalink**) 04-03-2017, 06:27 AM

1966-1967 Volkswagen Beetle Turn Signal Switch - SWF W0133-1609437 - - PartsGeek.com

SWF switch ^

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/vi...er=asc&start=0

Nice forum post about the switch ^

kevins2 · #20 (**permalink**) 04-03-2017, 08:36 AM

Thanks much. I'm going to start by relocating the canceling pins as Bob described to eliminate the canceling too soon issue. For some reason, my switch works well and feels good for a right turn, but for left, it has a notchy feeling that you have to pass through (feels like forcing something). In the end, it works, but doesn't feel right. I'll see if I can figure out what's causing that when I take it off to relocate the pins.

Thanks again for the info. If I can't get mine to work better I'll just order this SWF switch and be done with it.