Building ERA Slabside #3012

[LMH]

My opinion on original vs modern Dunlop wheels is if it were for an original car, I'd have the original wheels restored and use those on the car whatever the cost. The cost to restore original wheels is usually more than new wheels but original is still original. Dunlops are now made by Motor Wheel Service, which is an old British company with their operations now in India. So though they're still made by an old British company, they aren't in England anymore.
For a replica car, I'd use modern Dunlop wheels. Dayton is another choice but I don't know much about them. I've heard of some of the other British car guys having issues with the splines being sloppy on Daytons but I have no first hand experience with them.

BTW, MWS will restore original Dunlops but you're going to add shipping to India to do it. I don't know anyone in the USA that does restoration. A wheelright is almost a lost art now.
Larry

[1985 CCX]

More pics

[strictlypersonl]

Originally Posted by LMH

My opinion on original vs modern Dunlop wheels is if it were for an original car, I'd have the original wheels restored and use those on the car whatever the cost. The cost to restore original wheels is usually more than new wheels but original is still original. Dunlops are now made by Motor Wheel Service, which is an old British company with their operations now in India. So though they're still made by an old British company, they aren't in England anymore.
For a replica car, I'd use modern Dunlop wheels. Dayton is another choice but I don't know much about them. I've heard of some of the other British car guys having issues with the splines being sloppy on Daytons but I have no first hand experience with them.

BTW, MWS will restore original Dunlops but you're going to add shipping to India to do it. I don't know anyone in the USA that does restoration. A wheelright is almost a lost art now.
Larry

Dayton imports the Dunlop wheels. I'm not sure where they are made. Real Made-in-America Dayton wire wheels are very different, using a completely different drive method and a larger wing nut.

[LMH]

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

Dayton imports the Dunlop wheels. I'm not sure where they are made. Real Made-in-America Dayton wire wheels are very different, using a completely different drive method and a larger wing nut.

Interesting! I didn't know that. My Dunlops didn't come from Dayton, or rather, I didn't buy them from Dayton.
Larry

[AndrewB]

And it's in! I came in over the side and everything went pretty smooth. The hardest part was installing the transmission.

I am definitely going to have to get a drop base bottom for the air cleaner and the expansion tank is going to be REAL close to the hood. I'm crossing my fingers that it clears.







I am not a fan of those blue fel-pro valve cover gaskets. I'm considering changing them to cork but from what I hear the blue ones seal a bit better.

[1985 CCX]

Much better
Keep the pics coming thanks

[LMH]

Nice job!
Larry

[CompClassics]

I use and reuse the cork gaskets on my valve covers, never have had a problem.

[xb-60]

Congratulations Andrew. The startup date is getting much closer now

Cheers!
Glen

[Ianumalsa]

any suggestions or tips if I would build my own Shelby?

[RockBit]

Originally Posted by AndrewB

I am definitely going to have to get a drop base bottom for the air cleaner and the expansion tank is going to be REAL close to the hood. I'm crossing my fingers that it clears.

Andrew - When you are figuring out how much drop to use, check the clearance between the air cleaner top and the fuel bowl vents on your carb. I didn’t do this and had to add a spacer between the carb and air cleaner base to remove some of the drop.

There is more curvature in the hood from side to side than it looks like, so you have more vertical room than it appears.

Your car is looking good!

[fintubi]

Nice job, Andrew! I'll be going through the same exercise before very long. Did the curved metal part of the coolant line from the tank to the water pump come in your kit?

[AndrewB]

Thanks everyone. I'll give the cork ones a try as it looks like I am going to have to remove the valve covers and spacers to wedge the headers in.

Chris, thanks for the tip. I have not laid the hood back on yet, but while the back of the air cleaner fits fine, the leading edge of it is slightly taller than the top of the front quarters. I'll give it a try this afternoon and see where I'm at.

The coolant pipe came from Acton.

[dacobb]

Originally Posted by AndrewB

Thanks everyone. I'll give the cork ones a try as it looks like I am going to have to remove the valve covers and spacers to wedge the headers in.

Chris, thanks for the tip. I have not laid the hood back on yet, but while the back of the air cleaner fits fine, the leading edge of it is slightly taller than the top of the front quarters. I'll give it a try this afternoon and see where I'm at.

The coolant pipe came from Acton.

Is that air cleaner the Stellings & Hellings type or the Hi-Po?

Looks like the S & H is 1/4" taller. Can't believe that would make a difference, no?

[DanEC]

Congratulations - looks good in there.

For hood clearance get some Play-Doh, modeler's clay or even clay out of a clay detailer kit can work. Put a ball of it on all of your suspiciously high points before closing the hood for the first time. Then slowly lower it - if something is high the clay will protect the paint as long as you go slow - or you can lower it in increments and open it in between increments to see if the clay ball is flattening. Provided it will close all the way the deformed clay can be measured to give your clearance.

[AndrewB]

The air cleaner is the HiPo style. I didn't get a chance to test fit the hood, but I did torque down the engine and trans mounts (PITA). I've got some modeling clay on the way so I'll give that a try on the tank and the air cleaner once the drop base is in - thanks for the suggestion.

One thing to remember is that I have a 351w based engine so I am already working against an extra 1"+ of height out of the gate. You guys using 289/302's in your FIA or street cars will be in much better shape. Why oh why couldn't ol' grandpa had a 302 instead of going with the 351w option back in 1969...

[dacobb]

Originally Posted by AndrewB

The air cleaner is the HiPo style. I didn't get a chance to test fit the hood, but I did torque down the engine and trans mounts (PITA). I've got some modeling clay on the way so I'll give that a try on the tank and the air cleaner once the drop base is in - thanks for the suggestion.

One thing to remember is that I have a 351w based engine so I am already working against an extra 1"+ of height out of the gate. You guys using 289/302's in your FIA or street cars will be in much better shape. Why oh why couldn't ol' grandpa had a 302 instead of going with the 351w option back in 1969...

ah I forgot you had the 351. yup that will make a difference.

[dacobb]

According to Summit, the 351 block is up to 1.3" taller than the 289/302 block:

https://help.summitracing.com/app/an...-and-a-351w%3F

[66gtk]

Don't despair until you try it. It might fit. I have room on either side of my hood scoop for the same air cleaner assembly with my 351 and FIA/ERA

[Chicagowil]

It looks fantastic! I have been following the build for some time and just went back thru your posts, quite a fun build. Your colors are my favorite as well.

The first time I saw a Cobra in "Viking Blue" was several years ago at Everett Morrison. They had just completed a turnkey in that color with a beige interior. It was stunning and from that time forward I have targeted that as my color combination. When I came across an uncompleted CR1 kit with a beige interior- I grabbed it. But just can't get to the build living in an apartment in Boston and it in my workshop in WI!

But enough about me (LOL), you have assembled, with meticulous attention to detail, a beautiful piece of art! The slab side is still the most beautiful expression of the design.

Thom