Building ERA Slabside #3012

[DanEC]

I would guess that you could install the engine and transmission together at once in an ERA - at least with a small block. Someone who has done so may chime in. But it would take quite a bit of maneuvering and require a second and maybe third set of hands - someone underneath to handle the transmission and someone to steady the engine and watch for clearance. The ERA has a pretty massive center frame section under and behind the transmission that you have to get the tailpiece up and over and still clear the top of the tunnel at the firewall - I suspect it would be more difficult in an ERA than in an original Cobra and runs the risk of scaring up the frame and firewall.

I couldn't imagine trying it with an FE and big Tremec transmission. Stuff of nightmares.

[strictlypersonl]

Many have tried. Few want to repeat the experience.

[patrickt]

GoJaks under your wheels also helps in the positioning. Most of us have to rent an engine lift from the tool place and, sometimes, rolling it around to position it just right can be a pain. Pushing the car around an inch or so, with GoJaks, is easier.

[NOS-EDDIE]

If you are “OLD SCHOOL” and do the basic kit,then you can drop the engine in with trans bolted on with shifter sans just handle.......and by yourself. This is done before body is installed. It’s a lot of weight so I fabed a cradle out of 3/8” strap that utilizes the 2 top bell housing bolts and a couple bolts on the front of the engine. I don’t have enough faith in just the threads of a carb plate for a fully dressed fe with with trans.

[patrickt]

Dropping it in with the body off the car is cheating.

[CompClassics]

Looks like a nice build, great color choice as well. What kind of wheel and tires do ERA recommend?
Whenever I do a drivetrain installation on a big block or small block Cobra, the bellhousimg is installed on the engine, the car is on jack stands with the front wheels removed, the hood is as open as you can get it (using an adjustable prop rod from the opposite side you are installing from) and I put the engine in from the side of the car. I do not fully extend the boom of the hoist. I go in from the side because I do not want to fully extend the hoist boom and risk the chance of having too much weight moving around and possibly causing the rear of the hoist to start lifting off the ground and toppling over. When putting the car on jack stands leave enough room for the hoist legs to clear the chassis.

[strictlypersonl]

Originally Posted by CompClassics

What kind of wheel and tires do ERA recommend?

6" Dunlop wire wheels for originality.
6" Dayton wires as an economical alternative.

[AndrewB]

Originally Posted by CompClassics

Looks like a nice build, great color choice as well. What kind of wheel and tires do ERA recommend?

Thank you. I will be using the Dunlops with Avon CR6ZZ's in either 205 or 215.

[CompClassics]

So original 1960s 289 Cobra wire wheels will fit the ERA application without issues?

[desgros@vtlink.]

At Peter's suggestion my ERA Slabaside has 215-70 x15 Michelins on Dunlop wheels. The wheel wells are very nicely filled with no problems which is what I wanted.


John
ERA #3010 289 BRG Slabside

[CompClassics]

Are those original 1960s era Dunlop wheels?

[desgros@vtlink.]

They are as original new production 15x6 Dunlop wheels.

[CompClassics]

What is the cost of the Dunlop wheels?

[LMH]

New Dunlops are a little over $500 per wheel in chrome/stainless. I have a set (5) for my car.
Larry

[xb-60]

Originally Posted by CompClassics

...Whenever I do a drivetrain installation on a big block or small block Cobra, the bellhousimg is installed on the engine, the car is on jack stands with the front wheels removed, the hood is as open as you can get it (using an adjustable prop rod from the opposite side you are installing from) and I put the engine in from the side of the car....

Do you prefer the side entry solely to avoid removing the hood, or is there another reason as well?
How do you position the engine correctly longitudinally in the car?

Cheers,
Glen

[CompClassics]

Hi Glen,

Per your questions. I position the boom on the engine hoist (cherry picker) so that it is at least one adjustment in so the engine isn’t hanging so close to the front wheels of the hoist. I then position the engine approximately where it will be mounted in the vehicle so that I have to make as little for and aft movements as possible (my hoists has movable casters at all four corners). As the engine is lowered into the chassis you will need to move the hoist into or away from the center line of the chassis as needed. Your jack stands supporting the chassis should be as far forward as possible but positioned somewhere between the legs of the hoist.
I prefer not to go from the front of the car because the reach of my particular engine hoist, I do not like to fully extend the hoist boom because the possibility of flipping the hoist forward do to the engine weight is greatly increased. I’ve never had an issue going in from the side of the car, big block or small block.

[xb-60]

Originally Posted by CompClassics

...my hoists has movable casters at all four corners...

Ah! Makes sense. Mine doesn't have casters at the front end.

Cheers,
Glen

[DanEC]

The engine hoist I used also had casters on the front. And that's also why I left the bellhousing off during the engine drop as that let me position the lift and engine 3 or 4 inches further back and drop it pretty much straight down just barely off the firewall. I probably didn't have to move the hoist back very much once the engine was in to get it on the mounts.

[CompClassics]

If given the chance would you rather install original 289 Cobra wheels or the reproduction Dunlop wheels?

[strictlypersonl]

Originally Posted by CompClassics

So original 1960s 289 Cobra wire wheels will fit the ERA application without issues?

Yes. When we order the wheels, we get replacements for the original 289. In order to adapt the spline-hubs to our front hubs, there's a little magic involved to get the correct offset.