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Considering you have an ERA with pretty a close to traditional theme, I see where you would want to make it out of aluminum. But you can make some pretty nice looking and functional parts from 'glass.
Here's what I did with my Cobra. I have a 427W with port injection and 4 bbl throttle body. I made a 'glass turkey pan that uses the oval Cobra air cleaner and lid, but my base. It was a 2 step process that you could use for your set up. I made foam plug that had high sides, but the base was carved for room for throttle linkage and various other bulges. Glassed it, then through the vent holes, marked, trimmed, marked and trimmed so I have a nice 5/8" clearance between the edge and hood. Next, I masking taped the bottom of the hood and drew where the base would hit if it did touch as well as 4 or so witness marks. Then I removed the hood, layed the base on it and put a couple of hot glue dots to hold it in place. Because of the back reinforcing rib on the lone star hood, I slid the base back 1/2". This made it so the actual finished scoop would be shifted forward giving ample clearance. Next glass the flange. After a bit of filling and loving with sandpaper, I have a nice fitting part. I also incorporated a rear bracket to hold the pan, provide a hard mount for my IAT sensor, and a 1/2" tube to connect to the valve cover breather. |
Side pipe in the first pic looks a little puny.
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No, it's bolted to the bracket behind the throttle body with 2 5/16 nylock nuts, and the 1/4" stud that holds the air cleaner lid. And yes, I know what peril i'm in having nuts that could work lose and be ingested. If they ever have to be removed, they're replaced with new and never reused. I thought about drilling the stud and safety wiring them. I've also thought about glassing a screen to stop them, but instead I just don't reuse.
With your 8 stack, you could make a similar base to my vette's than sat on the throttle bodies you just lift off after opening the hood. The trumpets could hold the base captive and it could slide on a gasket on the hood mounted box. How soft are your motor mounts? If you're running rubber motor mounts, you'll need some allowance for motor movement under torque. That's where I was scratching my head about how to seal 8 holes to 8 trumpets without restricting them. |
On aircraft where heat can be an issue we use metal lock nuts not nylock as the radiant heat can affect the nylon.
Probably not in this case but a little extra insurance maybe. Cheers |
Elliptically deformed all metal nuts are the way to go. As indicated by " kyleb ". They will never back off and heat is not an issue. Nice project.
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Nice work
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I had similar issues with the newer version. However i was not changing from ice ignition so needed a work around due to clearance issues such as the ones you had.
I machined up some spacers to lift the throttle bodies enough to clear the fuel lines and throttle bodies. Now i have enough room to run the fuel lines back towards thr firewall instead of to the front as it is at the moment. Just havent got around to that as yet. |
Hi Akimbeau. This was a great thread on the Speedmaster 8 stack EFI.
In your post you said: "After much internet searching I finally found a 2 wire MSD small cap distributor(black…sexy!) with the same height and size of the cast stock distributor, great! The MSD distributor was easily lockable and the phasable rotor was easy to get." Can you provide an MSD part number for the distributor and the phasable rotor? Thanks. Cheers Greg |
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Thanks spdbrake.
Looks like the one. I wonder if a lower profile dist cap is available. I'll have to look. Cheers Greg |
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