ERA 289FIA On Order Today (again)

[crendonman427sc]

Hi Guys,
I have no idea what happened to my previous post yesterday so will try again. Apologies to the 100 views who found nothing!

So here we go for the second time.

Firstly I would like to introduce myself, I am David (Dave) 63 y.o. guy, currently based in Dubai, but heading to Gainesville FL next year, to be closer to my daughter and her family.

I got the bug from my father who in 1962, (when I was 8) took me to Goodwood. As a young boy I dreamt of becoming the next Jim Clark! I have built and raced cars since I was 21 and have competed in Single Seaters, Group N Saloons, Radicals and GT Championships with a Maserati Gran Turismo MC.

In 2002, I built a Crendon CR427 Cobra Replica, acknowledged in the UK as being the Faberge Egg of Cobra Replicas. The actual car I built featured in Trevor Legates – Cobra The First 40 Years hardback book. There are a few build pictures from 2002 in my Album if you care to look.

Anyway, despite never having seen an ERA in the flesh. Last Wednesday, I transferred my deposit and ordered from Peter, an ERA 289FIA Competition ++. I am now in the queue. Peter advised that the kit would be ready in 12 months time which is perfect timing for me.

I felt it would be nice to have a change from a 427SC of which (quite rightly) there are thousands.

The car has to be Period Correct and for Driving as I am not into showing and lots of bling bling. Whilst I have no plans to do any Track Days I am sure I can be persuaded !

SPECIFICATION (SO FAR)

ERA 289FIA – Viking Blue (Roundels and Stripes undecided)
302 Stroker (Troy, I love your Engine)
ERA Jag Rear End
Tremec TKO 500
Wheels - Undecided
All Quick Lifts/Roll Hoop and Brace Black
Side Exhausts (White or Black)
No Glovebox . Smiths Gauges?
Leather Seats (I’m an old man I need some comfort)

Apart from the above, anything would be considered, so please feel free to have your 2 cents worth with any recommendations or suggestions.

I hope to see many of you guys in the future somewhere. How many ERA Cars are there in Florida, it would be great to meet up.

Regards
David

[1795]

Dave,

Congratulations on your purchase. You will be happy with your ERA, a very well built car. Nothing like an FIA! They are a nice car. Enjoy your the build and your time with your family.

Jim

[fastd]

crendonman,
congrats.
I like the FIA better also.

I really love my t56 6 speed. not sure what rear gear you plan on running but 6 speed civilizes cruising so much that I think it's worth it.

i'm in the middle of adding the holley sniper efi with dual sync distributor. maybe figure out if you can get the fuel pump in the tank.

one of the biggest issues that hound me is heat in the carb and starter and quality of gas these days. I think the efi should solve 2 of these 3 issues.

what dash layout did you choose?
aluminum heads on your 302?

good luck.

[66gtk]

Hey David,

Great choice and congratulations! 12 months may be optimistic, but quality takes time. It might be realistically closer to a 2 year wait, which gives you enough time to make and change your mind a few times on the details (:

My 2 cents (since you asked for it):
1. 302 stroker - great choice! My car actually has a 351W based stroker. Webers are cool, but a single carb is much easier.
2. Viking blue - another great choice! If you want to add any bling to the paint I would stick with the team stripe up front and roundels (if you want those).
3. ERA Jag rear is more than adequate for street use, as are the standard brakes. However, it seems a lot of the FIA owners select the competition brakes and ERA rear for their FIA cars. It depends on how you will use it and where you want to save your budget.
4. TKO 5 speed is a great choice with the 3.54 gears and a .82 5th.
5. Wheels - definitely go with the 6 PIN FIA style wheels. There is no visible difference from the 5 PIN, but this is money well spent not having to deal with adapters and such which can be problematic. Still, the 5 PIN is a good system and is a popular place to save a few bucks without any ill harm done.
6. Black accents (roll bar, quick jacks) are period correct compared to chrome, and the white exhaust is really racy and cool, especially with a white painted wheel. However, they are difficult to maintain. My vote would be black. Most good coaters will tell you that white has issues from the start with hot exhaust pieces that are intended to look nice for a while.
7. Leather seats are nice, but the vinyl is nice, too. Might be a good place to save some money, but if you want leather you are in good company. Might as well go with full carpeting and street interior, but I'd keep the dash the classic FIA comp style. That means Stewart Warner gauges, which will also save you money over the SMITHS and be period correct for your car.

Other:
Skip the top, but a tonneau cover is really nice in case it rains on you while you are out/parked somewhere. Get the ERA steering column. Get the sway bars, as they are inexpensive. Consider skipping the oil cooler. These are not needed on the street and tend to cause more issues than what they are supposed to resolve. With an oversized oil pan you will likely never have oil cooling NEEDS unless you are racing. You will have more trouble getting your oil properly warmed up in normal street use, especially if you want to drive on cooler days. You can also add an inline thermostat bypass, which you should most definitely do if you insist on installing the oil cooler. I love the trunk suitcase dimples option. It gives you a great story to tell admirers.

HAVE FUN with the process and be patient.

Congratulations again!
Troy


Sexy trunk dimples shown nicely below (:

[CarGuy427]

Congratulations you have made a great choice on a car and a company. Be flexible on the time frame as it will likely be longer than you think. I’m having a 427 turnkey built and next week will be three years From my date of deposit. This is my third ERA and, quite frankly, you just have to get used to waiting given the quality and hand built nature of the product. You will not be disappointed. Best of luck.

[crendonman427sc]

Originally Posted by 1795

Dave,

Congratulations on your purchase. You will be happy with your ERA, a very well built car. Nothing like an FIA! They are a nice car. Enjoy your the build and your time with your family.

Jim

Jim,

Thanks for the welcome, for sure I will enjoy the build!

David

[crendonman427sc]

Originally Posted by fastd

crendonman,
congrats.
I like the FIA better also.

I really love my t56 6 speed. not sure what rear gear you plan on running but 6 speed civilizes cruising so much that I think it's worth it.

i'm in the middle of adding the holley sniper efi with dual sync distributor. maybe figure out if you can get the fuel pump in the tank.

one of the biggest issues that hound me is heat in the carb and starter and quality of gas these days. I think the efi should solve 2 of these 3 issues.

what dash layout did you choose?
aluminum heads on your 302?
good luck.

Fastd

Thanks for your response, comments on heat in the carb are noted.

Dashwill be Competition Style/Warner Guages/No Glovebox.

Heads will be aluminium for sure to keep front end weight down.

Regards

David

[crendonman427sc]

Originally Posted by 66gtk

Hey David,

Great choice and congratulations! 12 months may be optimistic, but quality takes time. It might be realistically closer to a 2 year wait, which gives you enough time to make and change your mind a few times on the details (:

My 2 cents (since you asked for it):
1. 302 stroker - great choice! My car actually has a 351W based stroker. Webers are cool, but a single carb is much easier.
2. Viking blue - another great choice! If you want to add any bling to the paint I would stick with the team stripe up front and roundels (if you want those).
3. ERA Jag rear is more than adequate for street use, as are the standard brakes. However, it seems a lot of the FIA owners select the competition brakes and ERA rear for their FIA cars. It depends on how you will use it and where you want to save your budget.
4. TKO 5 speed is a great choice with the 3.54 gears and a .82 5th.
5. Wheels - definitely go with the 6 PIN FIA style wheels. There is no visible difference from the 5 PIN, but this is money well spent not having to deal with adapters and such which can be problematic. Still, the 5 PIN is a good system and is a popular place to save a few bucks without any ill harm done.
6. Black accents (roll bar, quick jacks) are period correct compared to chrome, and the white exhaust is really racy and cool, especially with a white painted wheel. However, they are difficult to maintain. My vote would be black. Most good coaters will tell you that white has issues from the start with hot exhaust pieces that are intended to look nice for a while.
7. Leather seats are nice, but the vinyl is nice, too. Might be a good place to save some money, but if you want leather you are in good company. Might as well go with full carpeting and street interior, but I'd keep the dash the classic FIA comp style. That means Stewart Warner gauges, which will also save you money over the SMITHS and be period correct for your car.

Other:
Skip the top, but a tonneau cover is really nice in case it rains on you while you are out/parked somewhere. Get the ERA steering column. Get the sway bars, as they are inexpensive. Consider skipping the oil cooler. These are not needed on the street and tend to cause more issues than what they are supposed to resolve. With an oversized oil pan you will likely never have oil cooling NEEDS unless you are racing. You will have more trouble getting your oil properly warmed up in normal street use, especially if you want to drive on cooler days. You can also add an inline thermostat bypass, which you should most definitely do if you insist on installing the oil cooler. I love the trunk suitcase dimples option. It gives you a great story to tell admirers.

HAVE FUN with the process and be patient.

Congratulations again!
Troy

Hi Troy,

Fantastic looking car you have there! Who did the Paint as I am painting before assembly.

Your input has been invaluable so I am updating the specification

SPECIFICATION (SO FAR)

ERA 289FIA – Viking Blue with Roundels - (Type and colour of Stripes undecided)
302 Stroker (Troy, I love your Engine) - can you stroke a 289? or otherwise I may go for the original 289 Cobra Engine with 8 stack webers from Cobra Automotive) - Comments Please
ERA Jag Rear End
Tremec TKO 500 (maybe TKO600 for cruising?
Wheels - 6 Pin Starburst (Black hub with natural rims)
All Quick Lifts/Roll Hoop and Brace Black
Side Exhausts (Black)
289FIA Comp Dashboard. (What was the finish to the original dashboards?(certainly not leather!!)?
Warner Gauges
Leather Seats (I’m an old man I need some comfort)
1/2 Carpet set (will leave some aluminium on view)
Standard Windshield (Chrome on Brass) where are the frames from US or UK??

If anyone else can suggest options or improvements please feel free to add your comments


Regards

David

[xb-60]

Hi Dave, and congratulations on ordering your ERA 289FIA.

Comments:
Viking Blue – perfect colour choice for an FIA or USRRC replica, and same choice as mine (it's an AP 289FIA)
(My engine is a 302, gearbox is a Toploader)
Wheels - is there another option other than the FIA style wheels? I had seriously considered painted matt black, but they look so good in their standard polished rims and silvery grey centres that they are staying that way. They really suit the blue body.
Agree that quick lifts, Roll over bar and brace should be black.
Dash – mine is a drop centre roadster dash, similar to a number of original USRRC cars, and also same as one that you might know of, COB6008.
Seats – why not leather? My upholsterer used 2 hides, at a cost of around $300 (for the hides), which also left enough for my leather covered dash. Leather smells great too. I have Smiths gauges too, but sounds like you’re going the more normal comp. dash route with SW gauges?
What about a genuine CSX-type Moto-Lita steering wheel?

Enjoy the anticipation!

Cheers,
Glen

[domenic saia]

Great car era's are the best domenic

[byronpete21]

Congrats, I absolutely love my ERA FIA. I agree with not needing an oil cooler, I have one and it takes forever for my oil to get up to temp. I vote for the FIA 6 pin wheels, the only thing I would add is to spend some time and money on some heat shielding. The guy who built my car put some very nice heat shielding in the engine bay and around the transmission tunnel. It makes a huge difference in the heat department while driving in the summer. Good luck with the build.

Best regards,

Byron

[66gtk]

Comp dash is simply painted black.
Do you intend to drive this Cobra on the street or do you want to race it?
You have lots of time to do your research on engine choices and builders. Start with your desired intentions for the car ( be honest and realistic with yourself) and don't over build the motor for your intended use.

My car was built and painted 20 years ago by ERAs preferred painter back then.

[crendonman427sc]

Originally Posted by byronpete21

Congrats, I absolutely love my ERA FIA. I agree with not needing an oil cooler, I have one and it takes forever for my oil to get up to temp. I vote for the FIA 6 pin wheels, the only thing I would add is to spend some time and money on some heat shielding. The guy who built my car put some very nice heat shielding in the engine bay and around the transmission tunnel. It makes a huge difference in the heat department while driving in the summer. Good luck with the build.

Best regards,

Byron

Hi Pete,

I will probably have an oil cooler as the car must be period correct, so maybe a small one!?

FIA 6Pin Wheels Agreed!

Heat Shielding is something I had not considered at this stage. I must look into this and decide upon a product. Any suggestions?


Thanks


David

[crendonman427sc]

Originally Posted by 66gtk

Comp dash is simply painted black.
Do you intend to drive this Cobra on the street or do you want to race it?
You have lots of time to do your research on engine choices and builders. Start with your desired intentions for the car ( be honest and realistic with yourself) and don't over build the motor for your intended use.

My car was built and painted 20 years ago by ERAs preferred painter back then.

Hi Troy,

Not going to race it but its not just going to sit idle.

The Car Specification is changing by the day!!

I am still going the Period Correct Route and have now found the following:

1963 289 HIPO Block Bored .040 (5 Bolt Bell House Pattern)
1963 Pair Original Cast Iron Heads
1963 Bellhouse (5 Bolt - Narrow Style)
1964 4 Speed T10 Transmission

All items are correct Cast Numbers. Engine will be Fully Machined as necessary, together with a Jim Inglese tuned - 8 Stack Weber arrangement on top!

I am waiting for the Engine Builder to get back to me with specification as I need a hot streetable engine rather than something that's highly stressed.

Thanks and Regards

David

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by crendonman427sc

Hi Pete,

I will probably have an oil cooler as the car must be period correct, so maybe a small one!?

David

Just install an oil cooler for looks and don't hook it up. It's completely unnecessary on the street. My stroked 428 with the usual added capacity oil pan takes many, many, many miles of street driving to get the oil up to anywhere near the water temperature.

My 2017 Mustang GT350 has oil, transmission and differential coolers. The engine management system won't allow full power below 190 F oil temperature. I drove the entire last winter and never saw oil get close to 190 F. My transmission and differential rarely topped 100 F. Some guys are resorting to blocking the coolers off for winter.

These things just aren't necessary for normal street driving.

[bcrumpley]

Originally Posted by DanEC

Just install an oil cooler for looks and don't hook it up. It's completely unnecessary on the street. My stroked 428 with the usual added capacity oil pan takes many, many, many miles of street driving to get the oil up to anywhere near the water temperature.

My 2017 Mustang GT350 has oil, transmission and differential coolers. The engine management system won't allow full power below 190 F oil temperature. I drove the entire last winter and never saw oil get close to 190 F. My transmission and differential rarely topped 100 F. Some guys are resorting to blocking the coolers off for winter.

These things just aren't necessary for normal street driving.

Yep, I'm considering eliminating the oil cooler scoop oh my (street) car when the bodywork is done. I suppose the oil thermostat is a good option if you are running a cooler.

[byronpete21]

Originally Posted by crendonman427sc

Hi Pete,

I will probably have an oil cooler as the car must be period correct, so maybe a small one!?

FIA 6Pin Wheels Agreed!

Heat Shielding is something I had not considered at this stage. I must look into this and decide upon a product. Any suggestions?


Thanks


David

My car has Thermo Tec heat shield installed. ( It is pretty easy to find online) there are a lot of different products out there, and I would assume they all work pretty much the same. I am sure the forum can add some opinions on this. Good luck with the planning and the build.

Best regards,
Byron

[vntgspd]

Originally Posted by DanEC

Just install an oil cooler for looks and don't hook it up. It's completely unnecessary on the street. My stroked 428 with the usual added capacity oil pan takes many, many, many miles of street driving to get the oil up to anywhere near the water temperature.

My 2017 Mustang GT350 has oil, transmission and differential coolers. The engine management system won't allow full power below 190 F oil temperature. I drove the entire last winter and never saw oil get close to 190 F. My transmission and differential rarely topped 100 F. Some guys are resorting to blocking the coolers off for winter.

These things just aren't necessary for normal street driving.

I have a warmed over 302 with Webers and have to agree with comments about the oil cooler for a street car. It takes about 30 minutes of moderate driving in 80 degree weather before I see temps approach 190F. I considered adding a thermostat but really don't want to add clutter to the engine compartment or add additional leak paths.
I had to block off the oil cooler last winter also and I live in SoCal!

[1795]

Originally Posted by crendonman427sc

Hi Troy,

Not going to race it but its not just going to sit idle.

The Car Specification is changing by the day!!

I am still going the Period Correct Route and have now found the following:

1963 289 HIPO Block Bored .040 (5 Bolt Bell House Pattern)
1963 Pair Original Cast Iron Heads
1963 Bellhouse (5 Bolt - Narrow Style)
1964 4 Speed T10 Transmission

All items are correct Cast Numbers. Engine will be Fully Machined as necessary, together with a Jim Inglese tuned - 8 Stack Weber arrangement on top!

I am waiting for the Engine Builder to get back to me with specification as I need a hot streetable engine rather than something that's highly stressed.

Thanks and Regards

David

David,

Nice find! My only suggestion would be to consider ditching the 1963 bellhousing and going with a Quicktime steel bellhousing if possible. Having a period correct one is nice, but the last thing you want that close to your feet and lower legs is an old and possibly fragile item whose primary purpose is in the event of a clutch, pressure plate or flywheel breaking to prevent one or all of those items from removing those previously mentioned body parts from your body!

It happens, and is more likely in vehicles with higher horsepower. While 340 HP is considered mild on this forum, that is a lot of horsepower. I have seen small displacement race engines that are only producing 150 HP shatter a flywheel or clutch. In some vehicles it is not as big an issue as it is in a cobra, that flywheel is right around your ankles.


Good luck with the build. Hunting down the parts is fun. Now if you really want to go retro you could ditch the factory brake system and go Girling...


Looking forward to following your build.

Jim

[Ron61]

David,

You have a well thought out car there and it will be really nice when finished. I do agree with 1795 about the bell housing. I use a Quick Time on mine and I have a little more power than you will have but not the 550/800 that some of the people have. And I did race some so I didn't want an older bell housing that may explode if the clutch let go. Also the inspection at the race track looks at that but if you don't plan to track the car that won't be anything for you to worry about.

Ron