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Older ERA purchase
I'm in the process of selling a couple of vehicles in order to finally buy an ERA. I don't have the time or money to order a new one so I'll have to buy used. The question I have is, other than age/wear and tear of components is there any other reason to shy away from and older ERA? I know they made some changes/upgrades over the years and I have the list of what chassis number each change was implemented so I know what I'd be missing out on but other than those is there a big (or any) drawback to buying an older replica?
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I bought #418 which is a 1995 with 4800 miles a few years back. Not sure there were any major changes beyond 1995 that would deter a potential buyer. You really can’t go wrong though.
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Three years ago I purchased ERA2064, an FIA car with 13,000 miles on it.
The car was well sorted and has been almost perfect mechanically ever since. Don't underestimate the value of a used ERA that has been carefully sorted because a brand new one will need a lot of attention for quite a few miles to get everything right. A used car with very low miles might also need more sorting than one with more miles that has been consistently driven. Buy an ERA in good condition and you won't be sorry. , |
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427 Frequently Asked Questions |
ERA has and continues to build high quality Cobras. My current Slabside is the second Cobra I have owned. The quality is far superior to my first produced by another company which was noted for well built products. ERA means well built no matter which year it was done.
John ERA #3010 289 Slabside |
I would buy based on overall condition and wear and not worry too much about the age or serial number.
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All ERAs are good, but I really like the looks and details of the post 735? cars.
John |
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Thanks for the feedback everyone, I appreciate it very much. Hopefully the next time I post it will be to share pictures of my new ERA.
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I am the second owner of #375 427SC. She has been very dependable over the 22 years I have owned and enjoyed her. Last year I had to replace the rear brake calipers, pads and rotors as I had let the pads go well beyond advisable wear. This is a wear and tear replacement at about 45K miles.
I have changed the BMW clutch slave cylinder once as it was leaking but still operable. Also at that time I changed the break hose lines that run from the reservoir to the master cylinders because I saw them slightly weeping due to age. Last winter I replaced the RAM drag clutch with a normal street clutch and had the fly wheel Blanchard ground. Again due to wear. The street clutch is frankly so much better and smoother especially at slow speeds. That RAM drag clutch was more like an in/out type and was a bear to drive the car at slow speeds, especially in parking lots. It produced a lot of judder. Also last winter I replaced all my radiator hoses after all those years, not that they were leaking but really just to be on the safe side. You may also want to plan on checking and possibly replacing fan belt, flushing and replacing pretty much all fluids, filters and such. That way you are pretty sure get the ERA in ready to go and in a known maintenace situation. Fairly standard stuff. I am still running the original 1992 SPAX shocks which seem to be perfect oddly enough. Other than those wear items, all the rest on my car is pretty much 1991/92 stock and all parts are readily available and from what I have seen. I wish you the best with a new (to you) ERA and hope you enjoy the miles and smiles and the numerous “thumbs UP” you will receive as you drive. Cheers Art |
Art is correct. Pay more if you must for a car that has been recently sorted with up to date routine maintenance. Or, pay less for a car without proof of such and simply pay more for it after you get it home. People frequently overlook the maintenance on infrequently used hobby cars.
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