ERA Slabside 3018 is underway...

[dacobb]

I'm going with the Dart heads. The hi pos are stupid expensive and the Darts blow them away performance-wise.

My car is a tribute not a real Cobra, so the cost to go original vs better just doesn't compute. Autolite carbs are like $2400, for example. It would cost thousands of dollars more to make it "original", when in fact the car isn't original.

So, common sense versus insanity.

Brent, the build just got more expensive. ;>)

[CompClassics]

Who typically supplies the wire wheels for these builds?

[fintubi]

dacobb, I've been going through a lot of the same decisions with #3014.

My approach to the engine has been to keep to a reasonably faithful 289 look but allow modernization where it either doesn't show or isn't a sacrilegious change to the look. Those rules sound simple but turn out to be a slippery slope and complicated to apply .

Also, since I'm assembling the engine myself I vowed not to put any vintage parts at risk. No sense hosing up a 5-bolt 289 block or a set of HiPo heads just because I'm on the learning curve.

So the new things are:

- Dart SHP block, 331 CID rotating assembly
- AFR heads
- hydraulic roller cam

and the efforts to hew to the original look are:

- painted the heads black
- 289 HiPo front dress:
- passenger's side inlet aluminum water pump
- corresponding timing cover with cast-in pointer and dipstick tube entry (but the oil fill tube found on the really early engines)
- HiPo balancer and corresponding 3-bolt crank pulley
- Aviaid pan
- don't have the dizzy yet, but probably a Pertronix (i.e. electronic ignition hidden inside, rather than an obviously modern system like MSD)

Attached photo gives an idea of what this looks like so far.

Remember that it's your car and your dough, so whatever you choose is right for you

Best of luck,
Bill

[fintubi]

Quick answer for Comp Classics, who asked where the wire wheels come from:

ERA can supply either Dunlop or Dayton wires. Dunlop look more accurate but don't have as positive a drive arrangement at the hub. Daytons have the beefier drive and are easy to find in the US due to their use in the lowrider world.

I'm having ERA source the Dunlops for #3014.

Bill

[dacobb]

Hi fin,

You and I are on the same thought process.

As far as originality, it will stop at the block with this one. Modern components are just better than the original stuff.

I might even go fuel injection.

[blykins]

The small Dart Iron Eagle heads do well, and you need something "small" for a 289.

I don't steel abrate in house, so your block has been dropped off to be cleaned up, and your crankshaft was dropped off on Friday to be ground.

I quoted you a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft and if you want modern internals, then I would go with a hydraulic roller. The Dart heads are setup with true guideplate/rocker studs so it's easier to go with more lift, instead of having to slot factory heads.

IMO, EFI detracts from the nostalgia of the build, but beauty is in the eye.....

If you go that route, I would do a throttle body system that would bolt onto the Blue Thunder intake and be hidden by an air cleaner, so that it won't look out of place. That's also another reason to go with a hydraulic roller, because the EFI stuff doesn't always fire up on the first lick.....and if that happens, then the camshaft could be wiped out.

[dacobb]

Originally Posted by blykins

The small Dart Iron Eagle heads do well, and you need something "small" for a 289.

I don't steel abrate in house, so your block has been dropped off to be cleaned up, and your crankshaft was dropped off on Friday to be ground.

I quoted you a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft and if you want modern internals, then I would go with a hydraulic roller. The Dart heads are setup with true guideplate/rocker studs so it's easier to go with more lift, instead of having to slot factory heads.

IMO, EFI detracts from the nostalgia of the build, but beauty is in the eye.....

If you go that route, I would do a throttle body system that would bolt onto the Blue Thunder intake and be hidden by an air cleaner, so that it won't look out of place. That's also another reason to go with a hydraulic roller, because the EFI stuff doesn't always fire up on the first lick.....and if that happens, then the camshaft could be wiped out.

all good points. I'll think about EFI/throttle body for a bit before making a final decision.

definitely let's go with a hydraulic roller set up.

Send me a pic of that block when you get it back.