Twist

[Todd Hedges]

Bob,

Has anyone asked about the twist of the engine causing the
header pipes to hit the fender?

I have a mellow 428, and as the motor torques under hard
accelleration, the drivers side header pipes hit the top of
the cut-out in the fender.

I see three options:
1) a rigid engine mount for the drivers side
2) a larger hole - do not want to do this.
3) drive like a girl-scout - also don't want to do.

I used the Republic 2222 engine mounts listed in the manual.
Is there a better mount mfg. out there that isn't as flimsy?
any other suggestions?

Thanks
Todd

[flipper35]

The best solution I heard of here on the forum was to drill a hole and put a grade eight bolt through the mount to limit the movement of the engine and still isolate some of the vibration at idle. I am not sure on your mounts, but something similar should work.

[cobrajeff]

Todd -

I had a similar problem on my car (I have 427-style thru-body pipes on my FIA). I was hitting on the top on the left, and on the bottom on the right.

One would think that when you have headers custom made for the car, and the holes are already in the side of the car, the fabricator (not ERA) would have welded the pipes in a fashion that they exit CENTERED in those holes. Not so, for me. But, after waiting 8 weeks for him to finish the pipes (he orginally estimated 3 weeks), I couldn't wait any longer. I took it as it was and lived with it.

Pulled the pipes off this winter to re-paint, and, while I had them off, I opened the holes up in the body to make clearance. Pretty nerve-wracking, but managed to open up enough with a half-round file and a "tootsie-roll" sander without knocking paint off the side of the car. A little touch-up paint on the edges, and, Viola! no more witness marks (red paint) on the white pipes.

Jeff

[Jim Colman]

I had the same problem with my 351C powered Midstates. I rigged up a torque strap using an adjustable eye bolt screwed into the the frame and the left cylinder head.

Solved the problem with a couple bucks worth of parts and 1/2 hour labor.

Cheers
Jim

[Bob Putnam]

Todd,

Try loosening the motor mount bolt where it goes through the chassis and use a long bar (encouraged by a hammer) to slide the mount down a bit. A wee bit of engine tilting won't upset things, and it may give you enough clearance.

[Todd Hedges]

Thanks for all the ideas.
I'll try one and let ya know.
Not sure which, but one of them.

[427Aggie]

Todd,

We have 5 hard core ERA guys down here in Dallas...had the same problem.

We went from the ear on the front A-Arm tower and just drilled a bolt through it and put an adjustable bar from their to the water pump....bingo...no more worries...works great and no problems.

Matt

[mr0077]

Todd, no problems on mine, but when I installed the motor I leveled the frame main rails, then leveled the motor (using the valve covers). Try loosening the motor mounts on both sides and either level the motor (if not already so) with respect to the frame rails, or if already level, rotate it so the driver's side is a wee bit lower than the other side; pipes should come out centered in the holes or slightly high on pass./low on driver sides. LOL

[Lloyd GT40]

big problem on FFR cars with engines lifting under hard acceleration. Poly urethane mounts stop it totally. less flex than stock but not as harsh as solid mounts. THey are readily available for mustangs (ffr Uses) Summit catalog.

Lloyd