What is engine movement like?

The Dreamer · #1 (**permalink**) 09-27-2003, 11:42 PM

I'm assuming the engine mounts listed in the ERA manual are rubber. Does anyone know of a manufacturer of urethane FE engine mounts? Do the engines move quite a bit when torque is applied? I'm worried about flexing sidepipe tabs and the sidepipes banging into the car. Is this a non-problem?

Dreamer

Bob Putnam · #2 (**permalink**) 09-28-2003, 04:57 AM

As far as I know, there are no urethane replacements for the mount that we use with the FE. There is room, though for a through-bolt that will limit movement without creating extra engine vibration through the chassis.
Some have used struts from the head to the chassis.

In general, though, we don't have a problem with excessive engine movement without any of the fixes above.

CJ428CJ · #3 (**permalink**) 09-28-2003, 03:59 PM

Dreamer,

I was getting quite a bit of flex due to engine torque. The sidepipes were hitting the body cutouts. I installed a 7/16" bolt through the motor mount with just a little bit of "looseness" and that seems to have fixed the problem. I'd highly recommend it.

Chris

Bob Putnam · #4 (**permalink**) 09-30-2003, 09:17 AM

I think the modification below will work. The trouble is, I won't be able to confirm that for a few days.

Engine mount through-bolt.

Chaplin · #5 (**permalink**) 09-30-2003, 09:28 AM

Chris/Bob-
I noticed that my pipes are also rubbing ever so slightly on the driver's side body cutout. So, I may have to do the same modification.

Is there enough room to the drill the mount while it's installed on the motor or does the mount have to come out?

What does the bolt hit that keeps the motor from torquing over?

What, if anything, will this do to the lifespan of the mount?

Chris- Can you post a picture of your finished installation?

Thanks guys,
Mike

CJ428CJ · #6 (**permalink**) 09-30-2003, 10:48 AM

Mike,

I was getting rub marks on the top of the left side pipes and on the bottom of the right side pipes.

I had to remove the motor mount to drill it. Removing the mount wasn't very difficult though. I just placed a floor jack under the oil pan and lifted the motor a bit to get the clearance I needed. I'm running a Canton pan which is pretty solid. I might hesitate to do the same thing on a factory Ford pan.

Before removing the motor mount, I scribbed around the perimeter with an awl so I could tell where to put the bolt where it wouldn't interfere with the frame.

By putting a bolt through the motor mount, it doesn't really hit on anything. The motor mount is two metal plates which are somehow adhered to a big hunk of rubber in between. You drill the hole through one metal plate, through the rubber and then through the other metal plate. When the motor torques, the rubber on the left mount is stretched. The bolt limits how far the rubber can stretch.

I'm not sure what this modification will do to the lifespan of the motor mount if anything. It might even extend it since it limits how far the rubber can stretch (thereby decreasing the forces that will try to pull the rubber away from from the metal plate).

I didn't take any photos as I was doing the install. I'll see if I can take a couple tonight.

Chris

Chaplin · #7 (**permalink**) 09-30-2003, 11:46 AM

Chris-
Thanks for the explanation, that helps a lot. Now I can "see" what you're talking about. Mine is only rubbing on the top of the driver's side pipe- other side has a lot of clearance. I also have the Canton pan, and a good floor jack, so hopefully it shouldn't be too difficult. Looks like I have a weekend project.

I assume you loosenedd the passenger side mount as well? Also, did you need to loosen the trans mount or was there enough movement once you loosened the front mounts?

Thanks again,
Mike

Bob Putnam · #8 (**permalink**) 09-30-2003, 11:50 AM

Thanks for the accurate information, Chris!

(I've improved the web page since this morning.)

This is what it looks like when it's done:

Chaplin · #9 (**permalink**) 09-30-2003, 11:54 AM

Bob-
Thanks for the pics Bob! That helps.

BTW, it seems that you're always improving the website. Everytime I go to your site it seems I find something new that wasn't there before.

Chaplin · #10 (**permalink**) 09-30-2003, 12:04 PM

One more question. Reading this thread, I am assuming (maybe incorrectly) that you only need to install the bolt in the driver's side mount. Is this correct, or should both mounts get the bolt?

Bob Putnam · #11 (**permalink**) 09-30-2003, 12:28 PM

Chap,

Since the right mount is in compression (mostly) the bolt-modification will help only under the most extreme conditions.

The Dreamer · #12 (**permalink**) 09-30-2003, 01:17 PM

Thanks for the info guys.

CJ428CJ · #13 (**permalink**) 09-30-2003, 03:36 PM

Mike,

I didn't need to loosen the trans mount. I did, however, make the modification to both the right and the left sides (one side at a time of course). I contemplated only doing the drivers side but I decided to do both since I was getting rub marks on the bottom of the passenger's side too. I agree with Bob that the right side is mostly compression force but I think the torque is not perfectly perpendicular to the motor mount. It's hard to explain but I think that might cause some "sliding" forces so to speak too thus causing the wear on the bottom of my right side pipes.

On the bright side, the modifications only took me about 2 hours and that included two trips to the hardware store.

Chris

Chaplin · #14 (**permalink**) 09-30-2003, 03:40 PM

Does any project, no matter how big or how small, ever require less than two trips to the hardware store?

Thanks for the info, now I have something to do this weekend!

decooney · #15 (**permalink**) 09-30-2003, 05:28 PM

Chap,
Mike ERA626 just did his, and it works. I'm going to do mine as well; needs to be done. Without it, you will be replacing header gaskets too from header pipe flex.

CJ428CJ · #16 (**permalink**) 10-02-2003, 02:48 PM

Chaplin,

I'm just glad the hardware store is close by. I often wonder how people that live "out in the sticks" get by (my dad is a real handyman but the closest hardware store for him is about an hour from his house). While I was building the car, every time my girlfriend called the first thing she'd ask was "are you at Orchards (a local hardware store) again?" Of course now that the car is running, I have a hard time hearing her over the rumble of the exhaust. Now she asks, "are you out cruising in the Cobra again?" Haha. Life is grand.

Chris

Chaplin · #17 (**permalink**) 10-06-2003, 08:32 PM

Bob & Chris-
Thanks for the help. I did it this weekend. Took less than two hours - including one stop to the hardware store.

That's right only one stop. (I've decided from now on that when I go to the hardware store I'm going to buy the thing that I need and then buy one size smaller and one bigger. This way I figure I'll eliminate multiple trips and eventually I should build up a supply at home and avoid having to go the hardware store all together

) Who am I kidding? I'm still going to have to go to the hardware store, because I won't have what I need.

Mike

ERA 626 · #18 (**permalink**) 10-06-2003, 11:05 PM

I just did mine, however I still noticed rubbing on my drivers side pipes so I tightend the nylock nut a little more to make it snug that should do the trick.

PatBuckley · #19 (**permalink**) 10-07-2003, 07:04 AM

Mike(s)-

Well how did it work out?

I can see it now - part of the track tuning ritual involves "adjusting" your engine mounts!

Not as weird as it sounds, I am thinking....

Pat

ERA 626 · #20 (**permalink**) 10-07-2003, 08:34 AM

I dont know yet I broke my stub axle in my rear end I have to pull it apart and send it to ERA