Bracket Issue

[vegan2]

Let me apologize first as I don't know much about this subject, but my Cobra (ERA) has developed a very minor leak from the transmission and there is a "bracket" running right under the transmission/drive shaft area. The proposal is to cut the bracket on both sides and bolt on a longer bracket in its place, so that the transmission/drive shaft can be easily dropped down to fix the leak.

Does the solution sound OK?

[Bob Putnam]

On an early car like yours, that should be OK. Since that bracket supports the driveshaft hoop, make sure that your replacement is secure.

(On later cars, the X member was moved back and boxed for extra stiffness, so I wouldn't recommend removing the rear piece.)

[Jim Holden]

Vegan:

Can't you remove the seats, carpet and tunnel and access the drive shaft from the top like every other ERA? Boy, I wouldn't start cutting the chassis apart.

What number is your car?

Jim

[vegan2]

Originally posted by Bob Putnam


On an early car like yours, that should be OK. Since that bracket supports the driveshaft hoop, make sure that your replacement is secure.

My Cobra is in the early car category, built in 1987, so I really appreciate the insight.

[vegan2]

Originally posted by Jim Holden


Can't you remove the seats, carpet and tunnel and access the drive shaft from the top like every other ERA? Boy, I wouldn't start cutting the chassis apart.
What number is your car?
Jim

Jim: I just don't know, but the person that has taken an interest in working with my Cobra - not a lot of choices out here in the middle of the desert, came up with a solution (replace the bracket) and it seems, to me at least, to solve this problem and will make things more accessible down the road.

My Cobra was built in 1987 with an ERA number in the 90's. It's a Historical Vehicle in this state (AZ).

Thanks for the input.

[mikiec]

vegan2,

Not to hi-jack your thread but,

Nov 7th about noon there will be a bunch of cobras at Mr. D's.

Hopefully we will see you there before we head off to Las Vegas.

Mike

[vegan2]

Originally posted by mikiec


vegan2,
Nov 7th about noon there will be a bunch of cobras at Mr. D's.
Hopefully we will see you there before we head off to Las Vegas.
Mike

I'll make a real effort to stop by. Thanks for letting me know.

[Jim Holden]

Veg:

If your car was delivered from ERA in 86-87 it should have a number in 190s. My first ERA #140 was delivered to me in 1985. If your car was from that period you do not have to cut and weld the frame to access the driveshaft. The seats come out (8 bolts) - 15 minutes at most, the center tunnel comes out ( a dozen or so screws-another 15 minutes) and you have full unfettered access to the trans and drive shaft from above.

As far as I know (Bob help me out here) all ERA's have been built the same way since day one. DON'T START HACKING, CUTTING AND WELDING!

Jim

[Bob Putnam]

My records show that vegan2's got #91. A fine vintage.

Jim's right about the effort to remove the tunnel, but if someone wants to play - and it doesn't hurt anything - who am I to stand in the way?

Of course the easiest way to make the mod is to remove the tunnel anyway.

[vegan2]

Originally posted by Jim Holden
Veg:
The seats come out (8 bolts) - 15 minutes at most, the center tunnel comes out ( a dozen or so screws-another 15 minutes) and you have full unfettered access to the trans and drive shaft from above.
Jim

Thanks Jim - it seems like you have the plan that will work the best. I'm feeling a little short on expertise as a Cobra owner with owners that fully understand the mechanics having a real advantage. But, there are people like you that are willing to go the extra mile to explain the options - I really appreciate it.

Of course, I just enjoy seeing the Cobra in my garage!

[Jim Holden]

Veg:

Removing the seats (bolts access from under the car) and tunnel is like any "life" experience; the first time is always fraught with anxiety... then it becomes old hat. The order of removal is as follows:

1. Remove seats.
2. Remove shifter ring cover and hand brake cover
3. Unbolt handbrake lever (but do not disconnect from brake cable.
4. Remove lower rear brake access panel from rear bulkhead
5. Unbolt two downtubes (if you have them) that run from bottom of dash down to tunnel.
6. Remove screws holding down each side of the tunnel.
7. Carefully lift tunnel out (so that you don't wack the bodywork)
8 It may also be prudent to remove the steering wheel (gently pry off plastic center emblem and remove bolt and washer) first for addition room to work.

A couple of years back Peter P. and I flew down to Miami and in the course of one day did the above proceedure for an ERA customer, took out the driveshaft, trans and bellhousing, sent the flywheel out to be resurfaced and then replaced the clutch, clutchdisc and flywheel and put it all back together... with plenty of time to go for big food that evening. This was all precipitated by a call that started out "Want to go to FL for the weekend and see Enzo and Paula (at FinishLine)?" ...and oh by the way, we need to take some tools along."

Jim

[Chaplin]

Veg-
Jim is absolutely correct. Do not cut the frame, remove the interior- very easy to do. Should take you no more than a half an hour to do it all. And do be careful removing the tunnel- you need to make sure the back of it doesn't hit the rear lip of the car and scratch it. Don't ask me how I know

Jim-
You forgot to tell him the secret to getting the inside rear nut on the driver's seat back on. If his frame is like mine, that nut is a PITA to reinstall. I've found that it is best to put on the nuts on the front bolts (do not bolt all the way down- only two or three turns), have someone tilt the seat forward slightly so the rear inside bolt is just sticking through the floor and then bolt it on. Even then it is tight, but doing it this way makes it much easier.

Mike

[vegan2]

Jim - Mike thanks a lot.

I'm almost feeling that I can do this myself!

[CJ428CJ]

Mike,

I've found that the best way to get that nut back on the rear of the drivers seat is to hand it to your 11 year old son and say "here, I have a project for you." Works every time.

Chris

[Jim Holden]

CJ:

The "small third hand" is a needed tool in any ham fisted male's tool box. Wait til you try to work on an ERAGT. This is when I call on the 105lb spouse with hands about half as wide as mine to come help out "for just a minute" It costs me every time.

J

PS: The alternative is the "turn the other rear nut on a thread or two and then slowly lower the seat down as you tighten up on the other, locate the front into the holes, lower turn on a few threads, then go around to each nut and tighten the whole seat down a few turns at a time, etc. etc.

Because of the problems that I have had with my hydraulic clutch we've had the trans in and out of my ERAFIA about a half dozen times until we changed the banjo fitting to a heavier brake style fitting. Sometimes I wake up screaming in the middle of the night.

[Chaplin]

Chris-
Now that's a good idea. Small hands and fingers would be much better. Does your son travel? Would he like to come to NJ? The first time I tried to do it by myself I was so frustrated trying to get my fingers in there that I would have paid for his ticket to NJ.

[Jim Holden]

Veg:

One more thought: you can go to the ERA website and download the instruction manual at:

http://www.erareplicas.com/download.htm

It will give you a feel for what you are up against... or not as the case may be.

Jim

[vegan2]

Originally posted by Jim Holden
Veg:
One more thought: you can go to the ERA website and download the instruction manual at:
http://www.erareplicas.com/download.htm
It will give you a feel for what you are up against... or not as the case may be.
Jim

Thanks, Jim.

By the way, do you own four Cobras (those listed) or did you own those listed at one time?

Also, in case anyone is wondering, I am a Vegan (Strict Vegetarian) with the latest reason - I'm trying to outlive my money!

[Chaplin]

Veg-
I hope you don't have leather seats in that ERA

[Jim Holden]

Vegan:

No, only one ERA at a time... cheaper to change than spouses.

J