What Is the Procedure for Pulling Out and ERA Rear End?

[REDSC400]

Hi Guys,
I will soon be pulling out my ERA #375 (1992) rear end in order to change differential gearing. To that end, have any of you done this procedure in the past?

If so, can you share with me the process in detailed steps.

Does the gas tank need to be dropped as well or can it stay in place? Reason I am asking is just to know if I should let it get low or not.

Also, any specific tools I would need? I do not have a pneumatic setup, just hand tools and jack stands (4). How High off the ground will I have to raise up the car?

Lastly, what parts, bushings, etc would you suggest I change at that time. The rear is 11 years old but only 8900 miles on it. I was going to do the rear rotors and pads. Also check the SPAX shocks. What else would you suggest I replace or inspect at that time?

Thanks In Advance Bros'

[xcobraj]

Drop the tank,its very easy and makes removal and install quicker.You'll need a floor jack to drop the rear.Raise the car just high enough to slide the rear out,with the tank out car shouldn't need to be that high.Make sure the car in secure on the floor jacks.

[ERA 626]

I just did mine last week, but I have acess to a lift.
The lift made things easy and also a tranny jack.
The fuel tank has to come out.
Are you rebuilding the diff your self?
If so contact http://www.reiderracing.com/home.htm
Talk to Jeff he is the guy who builds all of the diff's for ERA
He will send you everything you need.
I just rebuilt my diff if you like I will walk you throught it send me a PM and I will give you my # so we can talk.

[RICK LAKE]

ERA626 HI Mike You have a real ERA?? What's mine a copy? Replica? Recycled? I'm worried, Pete said it what orginial. I will call and find out. You have a real one! I want a refund. Is your Gessford motor real too?? I am having one of those too built. Hope that this is real. Car looks good. Worried about car, maybe it's a FFR or SPF or Contemp one off?? No Pete would not do this to me REDSC400 watch out for the weight on that rear. Tape the brace housing befor you start so as to not scratch the paint to death. moving blankets work great to protect the housing. If you have the mount jack plate under the center it's easier. No wobbles on the jack. Plug the brake lines and tape to keep the dirt and water out of the fluid. stops whole system from a rebleed. Do it in the spring with new fluid. Have fun, watch the knuckles, where gloves. Rick Lake

[REDSC400]

Rick, Mike and XcobraJ:
Thanks for the info. I guess I will run my tank low before the "Operation".

Yes the parts are coming from Reider Racing, however, a local mechanic who specializes in Jaguars for many years (here in town), will do the work on the gear replacement.

Are there any bushings, gromets, etc, that I should perhaps replace at that time? Any wear items?

Also, My rear suspension parts seem to be powder coated in black. I was wondering if this would be the opportune time to have them chromed or HPC coated in silver. Your Opinion?

The suspension is pretty well hidden and I think this is rather gilding the lilly as it were, but once it is down I would have 2 months to play with to do this work. I plan on starting the operation in early January and finish up by end of Feb or mid March.

Thanks for the Pointers Guys!

[ERA 626]

Rick,
No punn intended. Just proud to be one of the lucky few...

[RICK LAKE]

ERA626 Me Too Mike. about the car. It was worth the 20+ year wait. I know I have given Pete P. and company a few gray hairs from being a PEST. The info was always correct and fixed any problem I had with the assembling of the car.

REDSC400 I don't know what gears you have in the car but way not get a used center and put the gears in that one. You will do 2 things 1 Have a spare rear if you go racing or a failure of a part inside happens, I drove 1000 miles to Run&Gun in 99 and ran the car 3 miles and a new stub bearing broke in the case, I was done.I now bring everything that I need to rebuild the car for this event. Rearend,Clutch,MSD box, Computor box for the fuel injection, trans, next year added a spare short block to the list. I know, I'm nuts but without spare parts you are done for the day. You didn't say what gearing you are going to?? 2 If you keep the car like I am down the road the parts supply will dry up unless someone starts maken these parts. You don't find them in the junk yards anymore. If you don't like the gear change you can always go back to the old ones. You know that where are 4 different carriers for the Jag rear and 3 different axle shafts. A dana 44 from a CJ5 71-75 carrier will work insome cases. If you beat on the car you might want to add Chrome moly stub shafts,(ones in the carriers) 30 spline, CWI sells them, good for over 600 hp. Currie sell a rear cover for 145.00 that act as a girtle for the rear end caps on the carrier. It put a little pressure to stop them from moving. It looks good too, but you donot see it. I have tryed to make the car bullet proof as possible for racing. It's just added info that mite help. Christmas is coming and everybody needs gift ideas. Your the man who has almost every thing Good luck Rick Lake

[REDSC400]

Hi Rick:
That is wonderful advice.
So I guess if I can find a Jaguar Rear End that would be the best thing.

In looking over the original ERA Assembly Manual, I need to look for a Jaguar XKE unit from 1961-1970.

Keeping my current center section intact is quite a sound suggestion! Big Back Slap on that one Rick!

Then, if I find a rear, I could ship it out to Reider Racing and get it all up to snuff BEFORE I get the process going.

Also, are those Chrome Moly stub shafts from CWI a simple off the counter sale or do they need my old shafts as cores? Do you happen to have CWI's phone # or web site?

Thanks Rick!

[RICK LAKE]

REDSC400 Art I go to swap meets and find great buys. A whole jag rear 300.00$ complete. You have to check the ratio and if it's a posi, there's a tag on the cover if it's never been worked on. Mark Williams build the stub shafts for CWI 30 spline bolt in. Need new bearings and seals. I paided 900.00 4 years ago for just the shafts. Another 500.00 for the carrier with the 30 spline case.The bolts for the jag carrier are 7/16 bolts the dana 44 carrier was 1/2 bolts I drilled and tapped it out to fit. I am a 20 year tech and have the tools to do this kind of work. Find out what gear ratio you want and see if Peter will sell you an open case. CWI in Costamesa CA. 644 Terminal Way. The number I have is old 3602743373 Try it. I don't know if they have a web site. You want the case with the 5 bolts that hold the stub shaft to the case and calipers that bolt to the stub shaft plate CWI has updated brakes for the rear of the car, finned rotors instead of solids. Era also builds that outside brake system for their single shock rear. I have cooling ducts for my rear brakes and harder pads because of the heat when racing.