Accusump mounting

[DonC]

Trying to figure out where the best place will be to mount the accusump when my new toy finally gets here. Any suggestions?
I've heard of mounting it on the front cross member and I'm curious as to what was used for mounts to anchor it there. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
DonC

[REDSC400]

Hi Don C:

Darned good question! I was lookin' around and agree that perhaps the best place would be:

1) either to the left or right of the radiator, either in front of it, up in the nose ahead of the radiator or behind the radiator. Your hose plumbing will be going there for the oil cooler anyway so it can make some sense to put it there.

2) atop the front suspension cross member.

3) behind the bottom of the radiator in a horizonal fashion.

There is an optional electric selinoid switch to keep the oil charge in the accusump. THis is probably a good idea to fit in, as it is in those long periods between starts that you would want to precharge and lube the engine. There is a manual valve that could take place of the electric valve but I think, I would go with the switch. This is called the Electric Valve kit and runs about $110 or so. They sell mounting clamps for the various sump pumps, they are about $20 for a pair.

[Sizzler]

the cleanest, coolest mount I've seen yet mounted it horizontally acress the top of the rear of the radiator.

There was room between the engine and radiator obviously, and that polished tank looked right at home there. And, an added benefit was that if you don't go with the electrically operated solenoid, the handle is right on top, easily to hand.

I don't know if you've actually SEEN one of the accusump units. Its size might surprise you.

[Ibr8k4vetts]

I wanted the weight over the rear, so I put mine in the trunk.
Mike

[a427sc]

Had my 3 qt mounted across the top between the shock mounts. Didn't like the weight so high, but mounting down low behind the rad/over the steering rack blocked too much air flow from the rad. Leaned it forward toward the top of the rad but left space for air to flow out the top. Ultimately, air out of the rad is the problem, not air in. Used an electric valve, made it easy to prelube at start with just a flip of a switch. In the trunk means a very long line and a slow reaction to low pressure fluctuations. Besides, my car was tail heavy already.

Don

[REDSC400]

A427SC (Don):
Hey Don, for simple pre oiling purposes, before starting the car, what size Accusump would do the trick for a 428FE? I understand the 3 quart unit is large and heavy. Do you think either the 2 or 1 quart unit would suffice for that purpose alone?

Reason I ask, I do not know how much oil would be needed for a meaningful preoil of the engine.

Frankly, simply pulling the coil wire and turning the baby over a few seconds would preoil the engine too? Right?

I respect your opinion and look forward to your response.

Cheers

[wilf leek]

Pic (Edit: sorry, can't attach pic for some reason) attached of my 3 qt accusump installation. I made up a support bar with flanges for the accusump "feet", it bolts directly to the ally inner wings, just above the top shock mounts.

I use it for pre-oiling the engine before starting, and when on a track, as my sump/oil pick up combo can suck air under extreme braking. One of these days that sump is going to go. But the engine won't, since it is protected by the Accusump.

On the pre-oiling issue, I look at it this way. With more than $12k in my engine, anything which helps protect it is worthwhile. I put it away steaming hot, leave it sometimes for a couple of weeks before starting it up again. All the oil will have worked it's way off bearing surfaces and down into the sump during that time. Pre-charging the oilways, plus pre-pressurising the bearings, can NOT be a bad thing.

I use the electric solenoid on the Accusump - flick the switch, and leave it whilst I open the garage door or whatever. I guess, that with stone-cold oil (and it is cold around here right now), it pressurises for at least a minute - enough time to get oil up to the rockers etc., so everything is lubed before starting it up.

Anyway - enough tech-talk. It's an extra toy for the Cobra, right? Therefore no discusssion is strictly necessary!

[wilf leek]

Sorry - pic for the above post attached here:

[DonC]

Thanks to all of you for your replies, information and advise. I'll finalize the mont location when Peter and the ERA elves get mine finished (hopefully June or July and the wait is killing me, never had any patience to begin with but I'm redefining the word - wait, I used to have patience but I had to wait too long for it. Anyone know of an outfit that ships parts by "yesterday" air?)
I've decided to go with the electric solenoid controlled by a safety covered switch on the dash. Still haven't decided if I'll get an "EJECT" decal to go on the safety cover though.
Again, the information is greatly appreciated.
DonC

[REDSC400]

Gee Wilf, that 3 quarter is indeed a monster sized cylinder! Much thanks for sharing that picture with us. Much appreciated. One other query for you....

How do you have it plumbed?

Did you use the optional check valve?

I was thinking of plumbing mine into my oil cooler line. Just dawned upon me that I would need some sort of check valve to insure that the Accusump flow goes in the correct direction or towards the engine galley.

[wilf leek]

Art - the picture is a little deceiving, the Accusump does not dwarf all other under-hood items!

I have it plumbed into the oil cooler return line, and yes, there is a non-return valve to make sure the oil goes where it is needed. Electric solenoid on the end of the Accusump.

I bought a -12 flap-valve type non-return valve. These have the least resistance to flow of all types of non-return valve, although they are not cheap. I don't think a non-return valve is "optional", it needs to be there to make sure the oil goes where it is needed. No point in sending it backwards through the oil pump and into the sump.
I ran all my oil lines in -12 size, a sensible thing to do IMHO.

If it helps, the flap-valve was cat no CVF7-12 from the Mocal folks.

This pic gets things into perspective. In it, you can see the heat-reflective covering I put around the Accusump to stop it over-pressurising due to hot air from the rad (hmm, nice and shiny!!:

[Chaplin]

My God, would you look at the size of that Accusump

[wilf leek]

Chaplin - that's small-blocks for you, even the coil looks too big!

[Chaplin]

Good point Wilf. It's all relative

[DonC]

Chaplin:
With all due respect to Wilf, would you want a small block for a relative? Would you want your sister to marry one?
I'm really sorry, I couldn't help myself ;-)

[Sizzler]

Originally posted by Sizzler

I don't know if you've actually SEEN one of the accusump units. Its size might surprise you.

Look at the picture above.

I told you so.

The install I admired was like that, except he managed to delete the coolant surge tank so things were a little less hectic form-wise towards the front of the engine compartment. Made for a nice look. Don't know if he had heat-reflective covering on his or not. DO remember how LARGE the thing was. Surprised me. I'd only seen the 'little' units before that.

[REDSC400]

Wilf:
You really do think things out don't you? Nice touch on the reflective covering. It does get darned hot under the hood of a big block here in the summer so heat is an issue for sure.

Thanks for the tip on the check valve. Again you have done your homework.

In operation, do you see the engine pressure rise on you oil pressure gauge when you are pre-oiling the engine before start? If so, how high does it go?

So it seems here are the parts....

Accusump
Selinoid Electic Valve
Mounting Brackets and heat shield if necessary
Tee fitting for AN line
AN line to Accusump from Tee with fittings
Check valve on one side of tee toward wet sump side of engine so as to not pressurize the wet sump
Switch for Selinoid and wire.

Did I miss anything???


An operational question for you....

With 3 quarts in the Accusump, does that mean you are 3 quarts shy in the wet sump oil pan? This has always puzzled me for as the Accusump is charging up with the high oil pressure and then if you flip the switch and "capture" the oil in the Accusump, would you not be 3 quarts low in the wet sump?

Maybe Im thinkin too hard.... I smell clutch burning.

[Chaplin]

Don.

Art-
When you install the accusump, please pay attention to exactly how you do it and be prepared to present a thorough "how-to". Also, please keep an accurate inventory of all required parts, including part #s.

An accusump is on my list of future upgrades and it seems you're doing all the leg work for me. Thanks!

[a427sc]

Art I used a plate adapter between the oil filter and the mounting for the cooler in/out. It has a one way valve in it so a flap valve wasn't necessary. Just T'd the line in to the cooler return. I left it on all the time once I started it. Doesn't hurt to do it, hurts if you need it and don't have it. The oil press gauge would rise to almost whatever the Accusump pressure was. As for the amount of oil, overfill the pan about 2 quarts to start, run it for a while till the cylinder fills and the pressure gauge reads about the same as engine pressure. Shut the engine off and check the pan level and refill accordingly. For oilchanges, open the valve and let it run dry, shut off the key and wait a while till it drains down. Fill like normal and add the extra amount you found when you started it the first time. The solinoid valve will fill the cylinder when ever the engine runs, but not release until activated. I ran the power from "key on" thru a dash switch and on to the valve. Could stop discharge if I needed to, like when leaving the key on for something, and it was automatic on starts. The only time I varied from this was when racing and the oil got real hot, then I would manually shut down the valve on the cooldown while the pressure was high. Never noticed a problem with heat rise from the radiator, it was always on and just flowed in and out as necessary.

Have fun

Don

[hcollado]

I don't know if you need a 3QT unit. I have a 2QT and it seems to do the job just fine. Take a look at my galary. Defenately get the anadized model.