Jag IRS Rear Wheel Bearings - Page 3

Excaliber · #41 (**permalink**) 03-10-2007, 07:11 PM

Just above your post is strictlypersonl's post and a LINK to the proper setup. It provides everything you need to know.

joey_hv · #42 (**permalink**) 03-10-2007, 09:31 PM

holy crap!!!
I have just decided to NOT use the Jag IRS i bought for my project! screw this, too many variables....anyone interested on a jag rear end? selling this baby cheap! heck might trade it straight across for a good old American posi trac...

Excaliber · #43 (**permalink**) 03-10-2007, 10:27 PM

Ah, but that IRS is sweet when it comes smooth ride, well worth the effort! I USED to have a solid axle, road like a truck, no comparison to how nice the IRS is.

RICK LAKE · #44 (**permalink**) 03-11-2007, 06:49 AM

ATexasSnake Larry like anything else,alot of guys can work on a car,only a few can repair it. I am a master gm mechanic for over 25+. I put my car together myself. I rebuild the Jag rear from a kit from CWI, all plastic bushing where the bearings are, new locker, new gears, new outter bearing supports from any cobra maker. Was going with a watts linkage, this is before ERA made thiers. I have the XJ-6 book and did all the work myself. I got to the end shaft play and had the same problem of loose rearend. .022 L/S and .110 R/S. I didn't want to miss R&G and left the car alone. I riped up the R/S bearings after 3 miles. I am very lucky that ERA is only 2 1/2 hours from my home. I took both axles and housing and the master builder Doug, fixed the clearance in 30 seconds on both sides. Running the car 6 years and the rear is still tight. I would have spent a week screwing around and not got the right clearance. Find an old JAG mechanic and let him look at it. Dinner and a 6-pack of Lone-Star and you should be good to go. 1 side note buy a rear cover support from LWP and put it on. This will give added strenght to the carrier caps. You will need to modifly the breather for the rear cover. Any driving for long or hard distance and the rear fluid will get blown out through the seals and on the brakes and rotors. Good luck with the rear. joey_hv There is nothing wrong with a Jag rear when setup properly. Alot of the best factory rear wheel drive cars and running independant rears. Where do you live and how much for your Jag rear??? I don't know what cobra you got your cobra from but I have not seen a cobra kit that comes with both setups for a Jag or Vette rear and a 9" solid axle. If you are going drag racing,the 9" is for you, autocross or cone racing in parking lot, independant cars are faster. Rick Lake

joey_hv · #45 (**permalink**) 03-11-2007, 09:41 AM

I'm building a scratchbuilt so I can basically set it up any way I like. I like your idea of taking it to a Jag guy and letting them do a rebuild from the get-go. I don't plan on doing any racing with it...other than stoplight to stoplight with the occasional bonehead...I would love to use the jag rear because i heard that they are a sweet ride but i never heard they were so finicky.
I got my jag rear practically free ($250 but it needs new rotors) so I'm really not too emotionally attached to it yet. I'm in arizona.

PatBuckley · #46 (**permalink**) 03-11-2007, 09:26 PM

Boy, this is an old thread....

Did you fix the problem, Ernie?

After this thread died the first time I put some new Billboards on my Kirkam and had the same "torque steer" issue you complained about.

After checking everything else I measuired the tire stagger and found that the Goodyears made in Argentina (or someplace equally wacky) had different circumferences - try 2" !! I've seen dirt cars run less.....

Pat

Excaliber · #47 (**permalink**) 03-11-2007, 09:30 PM

I got lucky with my Bill Boards, there pretty close to same size. I've heard the horror stories about others though!

Minimal torque steer since I set the wheel bearings, but I recall thinking it COULD have been tire pressure low on one side at the time. Since I fixed both, hard to say.

Because I have the 'wheel inserts' (fake knockoffs) it's a ***** checking tire pressure. I'm more careful about that these days.

DCX35 · #48 (**permalink**) 04-18-2007, 09:21 PM

Ernie - Just for the heck of it, double check the four special Jaguar tapered bolts (two on each side) which attach the lower control arm inner end support/pivot brackets to the Salisbury (or Dana) rear end unit cast iron housing. On my Unique Motorcars Cobra, these bolts broke on the left side which was not immediately obvious without inspection because the forked inner ends of the lower control arms are tied together left side to right side with steel straps running between the left and right lower control arm inner end pivot rods, one strap runs in front of and one behind behind the rear end unit. These straps together give partial support and prevent the lower control arm from completely falling away (which would allow a suspension collapse). The lower control arm inner end swings down about an inch and a half giving a noticeable negative camber to the tire/wheel on the failed side but the car remains driveable but with somewhat squirrely handling (i.e. limp in mode). Unique Motorcars sells a bolt on 1/8" thick steel plate which rides below the rear end unit (has drain access hole) which further ties the left and right side lower control arm inner end attaching brackets together with 4 bolts on either side using existing downward facing threaded holes on the left and right side lower control arm inner end attaching brackets. Good luck with the Jag IRS handling issue. - DCX35

Excaliber · #49 (**permalink**) 04-18-2007, 09:53 PM

Thanks for the tip DCX35, I'll have the car on a rack and doing a complete inspection of the entire under carriage in the near future.

427 S/O · #50 (**permalink**) 04-19-2007, 05:02 AM

DCX35, during my build and after hearing about some folks actually bending the lower control arm while drag racing, I built an adjustable tie-in (see my pics).