Break Rotor Question - Pin Drive

REDSC400 · #1 (**permalink**) 01-08-2005, 08:36 AM

Hi Bob and Gang....
I was wondering about my front break rotors on #375 427 S/C (1992-3). When the day does come to replace them, how do I get them with pin drive pins?

As I understand the Front Brake rotors on #375, they are the standard ERA front brakes of that day... which means they are the 70-78 Camaro or 71-78 Impala or 75-78 Nova. That part is easy enough.

The harder part is ordering and having installed the pins for the pin drive wheels. What are the part no's for the pins and is the installation easy or does it require modification or machining of the front rotors?

Having never done this, I am inquisitive....
Does ERA sell them all made up and ready to go? (dumb question as I am sure you do).

Thanks in Advance to all.

Cheers

strictlypersonl · #2 (**permalink**) 01-09-2005, 10:36 AM

Red,

On the early cars, we re-drilled a '70s Mustang rotor. We are now having custom rotors drilled with the pin-drive pattern at the factory. The sizes and offsets are the same either way. We've got a bunch of the new ones in stock anyway.

REDSC400 · #3 (**permalink**) 01-10-2005, 05:31 AM

Ok, that is good, I will pick up a pair of them the next time I am by the works. I am glad they are the same size.

BTW, we share the same size shoes....

1Trkpony · #4 (**permalink**) 01-14-2005, 02:28 PM

Hey along the line of the calipers, has anyone ever looked at the Stainless steel brakes aluminum 2 piston replacement caliper? These are bolt in for the standard GM floating caliper and use the standard rotor (thus 15" wheels, etc.). Not sure if they are an improvement over the stock GM pieces. They run about $390 a set. Anyone look into these before?

See details at : http://www.ssbrakes.com/products/superTwin/

REDSC400 · #5 (**permalink**) 02-23-2006, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1Trkpony

Hey along the line of the calipers, has anyone ever looked at the Stainless steel brakes aluminum 2 piston replacement caliper? These are bolt in for the standard GM floating caliper and use the standard rotor (thus 15" wheels, etc.). Not sure if they are an improvement over the stock GM pieces. They run about $390 a set. Anyone look into these before?

See details at : http://www.ssbrakes.com/products/superTwin/

I have just installed a pair of A185's from SSB on #375. I had them powder coated blue. They are a perfect fit. Come with all the hardware up to but not including the brake line. (New crush washers are supplied as well as brake pads). I have not tested them out but will do so when the roads are clean and weather here breaks (read April at best).

With shipping and powder coated, they are about $500ish. Nice folks to deal with.

ZOERA-SC7XX · #6 (**permalink**) 02-23-2006, 04:22 PM

Re: Pin drive wheels...
Art. have you looked into the Trigo 5-pin adapter that goes with the GM rotors/hubs? They are quite nice and go with their aluminum Halibrand replicas w/knockoffs. I bought a complete set for my ERA (#718, which is currently at the paint shop) on special last winter before I even ordered the car. They will bolt right on you hubs.

REDSC400 · #7 (**permalink**) 02-25-2006, 10:15 AM

Zoera,
No I have not explored that aspect. My pin drives are fine and have stood the test of time. They work perfectly so I am not in any hurry to replace them. However, some day, I will have to get a new set of front rotors but they are hardly worn after about 22K miles of use.

Congrats on your new ERA coming. Who is doing the paint? Is ERA doing the build or are you? Tell us about the engine and trannie... (You may want to start a new thread, OK?)

ZOERA-SC7XX · #8 (**permalink**) 02-25-2006, 11:51 AM

Art. I sent the Cobra to Tony's in MA...they do much of ERA's paint work...it should be done by April...Black clearcoat/no stripe. I ordered the kit from ERA, but it comes almost complete, not like the other brands. The only thing I have to do is build the rear (currently doing), eng, and trans and assemble the suspension and interior. I started with a 390 w/matching toploader, sent it to my engine guy in New Haven (Machine and Deisel Repair)...bored .080 over to 4.130 and used std Keith Black pistons with a 428 crank...makes a nice budget 428...added 69cc CJ heads and a Holly Street Dominator intake w/750 cfm vacuum secondary carb and a Comp Cams Magnum 270H. It should pull very well. I'm hoping to have it on the road in time for the Lime Rock Vintage Fall Festival. Maybe I'll meet you there...I live in Meriden, kinda close to you I think. I'll check out your site. Take care.
Rich

REDSC400 · #9 (**permalink**) 02-25-2006, 02:17 PM

Hi Rich,
The build sounds like you have it under control, good job! Tony did my car back in 92. The paint still looks perfect and folks cannot get over it when they hear the paint job is 14 years young. He does good prep work, and that is what counts.

The engine sounds good. I have not heard of that engine shop in New Haven but then again there are so many around, so that is not big news. And it is always good to hear of a new shop. I too have the toploader and it is a nice choice. I have the 3.31 rear end which makes the Toploader usefull in all gears. You can get up to near 60 in first if you wind the piss out of the engine and 4th gets you at about 2400 RPM cruising.

Which heads are on the engine? I am running the Comp Cams 33-230-4 in my 428 and it works well.

For sure you have to have the goal of the Lime Rock Vintage Fall Festival. If you ever need a hand, please let me know as I am down in Stratford and pass by Meriden pretty much daily enroute to and from work. Keep in touch and perhaps you can make it to some of the cruises that we frequent. There are about 5 of us here in So. Conn who actually "gasp" drive our cars and we take long rides on nice days. You will always be welcome to join us. Hee Hee, (with you joining) that would make 3 ERAs, 1 Superformance, and two Factory 5's.

Check out my gallery as there are some pic's of the 5 Cobras on Jan. 1st 2005.

ZOERA-SC7XX · #10 (**permalink**) 02-26-2006, 04:49 PM

Hey Art. Thanks for the encouragement...I'd love to run with your pack. This baby is being built to drive!
I got a set of C8AE-H heads done up with 2.07 intakes on ebay from D&J Machine in Phoenix. Machine and Deisel in New Haven has actually been in business for over thirty years, founded by Babe Fraulo and now run by his son Andrew. I've had good luck with them for many years and will continue to trade with them...they're very reliable.
I grew up in West Haven and worked in Stratford (Textron Lycoming) for fifteen years...now I work for Pratt & Whitney in East Hartford...I moved to Meriden four years ago.
Tony's will be bringing my Cobra back in about six weeks...maybe you can stop by after that and give me a few pointers. I'll probably be working on it all summer. Nice cruising down by the shore! Check out my pics Fotki.com. My member name is "Katmandu".
Rich

REDSC400 · #11 (**permalink**) 02-27-2006, 03:36 PM

Hi Rich:
The C8AE-H heads are later versions of those on my 428. I see that you had the intake increased from the stock 2.02" to 2.07". They did the same to mine with 2.09" intake and 1.75" exhausts. Supposedly they were also polished and ported, however, I cannot attest to that as I never saw them before and after, I just have after pictures.

Yes, when the car comes down, let me know if you need a hand. Also, what rear end ratio are you going to run?

ZOERA-SC7XX · #12 (**permalink**) 02-27-2006, 06:22 PM

Art...my mistake...the valves are now 2.09/1.75 w/69cc chambers. As you can tell by the milder cam, it should have great streetability, as I'm willing to sacrifice about 50/75 HP for good driveability. Interesting that this thread was supposed to be for Bob at ERA, and although I stop by their shop on my way home from work quite often, I usually shoot the sh_t with Godfather Peter P. or Doug in the shop, but I still haven't met Bob yet.
The Jag XJS rear I bought was supposed to be a 3.31 posi, but now that it's on the bench I think it's a 3.08 posi. When I pull the cover I'll check the numbers to be sure.
When the car comes back I'll let you know...you're welcome to stop by, and the weather should be a little warmer by then. I still have to color-sand and polish the clearcoat on my Stingray and reassemble the bumpers and trim and I'd also like to replace the interior so I can enjoy driving that this summer. I kind of neglected the Vette once the Cobra was delivered. You understand.
I can't wait to see your Cobra and get your input on my project. Take care.
Rich

REDSC400 · #13 (**permalink**) 03-01-2006, 08:05 AM

Well... when you are there in the shop... LOOK UP...
His sanctum sanctorum (sp?) is up in the parts loft above the workshop bay.

The 3.31 is interesting... in that it can be very hard to drive the car slowly for example in a parking lot. The car will kind of "lurch...lurch...lurch" at any speed under 7 or so miles per hour. Since I have a racing clutch in my car (BIG MISTAKE which I will change some day when I need a new clutch) which is an IN or OUT type clutch I cannot feather the clutch or slip it without alot of wobble feedback as it tries to grab.

The 3.08 could possibly amplify the lurching at low speed, so be aware of this...

The easy way to test what ratio you have is to count the number of full turns on the diff drive shaft input that it takes to turn the half shaft drive shaft(s) one turn. Also, there typically is a tag on one of the diff plate bolts that is embossed with the ratio.

Have you gone to my website (see below) to see the big pic of my ERA (it is at the bottom of the home page).

ZOERA-SC7XX · #14 (**permalink**) 03-01-2006, 07:53 PM

I got the word to use a std clutch & pressure plate...and I'm using a wide ratio T/L that has a 2.78:1 1st gear...which should give me the same speed at 1000 rpm as a close ratio w/3.31 rear. Either way, I'm still thinking of using a 3.31 ring and pinion, even if I have to replace them. So much for buying used parts from a different source.
I did see your Cobra in the pic...awesome!