Installing a FE in a ERA

ERA Tom · #1 (**permalink**) 07-02-2005, 01:12 PM

Ok guys, I’m looking for some advise. I am getting ready to linstall my 427 FE into my ERA for the first time. I would like to install it with as many of the accessories on it as possible. What I’m unsure of is what will and won't fit through the hood opening. Specifically, can I leave these parts attached:

Clutch fork and slave
Starter
Remote oil filter mounted to the front of the water pump
Alternator
Radiator surge tank

Any tips on making the install go easier would be appreciated. Thanks, Tom

Excaliber · #2 (**permalink**) 07-02-2005, 01:30 PM

I put mine in with the trans, water pump and various peices on. TIGHT fit to say the least. It took three or four of us using various pry bars and "shoe horns" to push it BACK far enough.

The MAIN problem was the engine hoist did not have enough "reach", other than that not to bad. Getting the front of the engine high while keeping the tail of the tranny low was the biggest issue. The angle has to be quite extreme, and then at the last moment raise the tail shaft of the trans to get it in place.

We raised the tail shaft of the tranny basically with "brute force", all though really it wasn't "that heavy". More like a pivot point thing. The front of the engine clearing the front X frame was tough. After that, slipped right in, piece of cake!

PS
I had the freakin' motor mounts on backwards and everything ground to a halt while I crawled under to swap them around. THAT was a pain in the butt while all my buddies grabbed a chair and watched.

decooney · #3 (**permalink**) 07-02-2005, 01:55 PM

I did mine like this to prevent gouging and scratching to my parts, engine compartment area, and frame:

- Bellhousing on
- Water pump
- No Clutch fork
- No Transmission
- No expansion tank
- No remote oil assy
- No Carb
- No Distributor
- blankets on front, sides, firewall

Bolted up in about 15-20 minutes.
Good luck.

Enginetime · #4 (**permalink**) 07-02-2005, 07:50 PM

I placed my 427 in with no tranny on it....the way ERA suggests.
It is a painless 20 min. operation if you just drop in the engine and bellhousing (minus tranny) using a lift plate where your carb should be.

Tongue Pirate · #5 (**permalink**) 07-02-2005, 11:59 PM

Not a Big Block but I put mine in today.
(SEE GALLERY)
--Did it by myself with no bellhousing or trans. --PLEASE!!! Get a picker with plenty of reach! You're gonna need it. The picker I borrowed had a long reach but even with that I was at the last hole & things weren't entirely stable(& again! It was a SMALL BLOCK).
--I don't think I would want to attempt it with trans on but sounds like it can be done.
--my surge tank is different but i pulled it before install. Easy enough...
--left alternator & pulleys on
--pulled oil filter. good thing I did! Realized it was too long to fit even when mounted...

--didn't have the slave or starter on but probably would have gone in with no prob.
--The most dificult part was installing the trans. An extra set of hands would have been really nice! Eventually I won

BTW, Where are you located?
Good Luck!

Excaliber · #6 (**permalink**) 07-03-2005, 12:23 AM

My crankshaft pilot bearing is a literally a "bearing". The tip of the input shaft of the trans is really a TIGHT fit into that. Man it's hell getting the tranny to button up the last 1/2 inch or so. I figured as hard as it was to do OUTSIDE the car I didn't want to try it INSIDE the car!

I've heard some other guys have the same problem with the bearing vs bushing.

Yeah, LAST hole on my cherry picker, as LONG as the thing would reach and still not long enough. With or without trans and accessories you need a long reach!

chuckbrandt · #7 (**permalink**) 07-03-2005, 05:11 AM

I didn't have much on the engine and it was easy. I got some good advice from Charlie Bolinger (ERA #664) and left off the canton T-pan, in fact I left off the oil pump and pickup and windage tray too. They were easy enough to install later, use "Right Stuff". I also did not have the bell housing on. I did have the water pump, alternator and fuel pump on. I took the valve covers off so the chains for the load leveler wouldn't booger them up. To solve the reach problem I went over the fender as seen in this pic from the mockup stage.

Good luck, Chuck

RICK LAKE · #8 (**permalink**) 07-03-2005, 05:28 AM

chuckbrandt Chuck jack the car up high enought that you can get under the car yourself. You need more padding on the fenders. Is the bellhousing centered to the motor? Do this before you put the motor in. Check the starter air gap with the bell housing off. It is easier to do this way. I did my motor without the trans on it. If you jack the car up enough you can slide both in but the limit on the cherry picker is the problem. Once you get the motor in the car, bolt the 2 motor mounts into place, not too tight, you need to jack up the back of the motor to put the trans in. Moving mats work the best for this. No fluid in the trans or if you have a yoke or plug for the output shaft. unless you are Kong you will need some help to slide that trans in. No tank or carb when installing. You want to hook the header pipes up while the motor is loose. You will need the trans installed before you do the headers. Tape your fender covers to the body of the car. Good luck. Rick Lake

RACER X #99 · #9 (**permalink**) 07-03-2005, 06:25 AM

Since the hood opening on all Cobras are about the same size it is probably the same job installing an engine in any Cobra.
I have had my engines in and out so many times I have lost count.
Here are a few tips. After you have done all the under car disconnecting, raise the rear of the car as high as the jackstands allow. Remove the front wheels and lower the front of the car as low as you can while still leaving room for the legs of the engine hoist to fit under the chassis.
Install engine and trans as one unit with starter and clutch slave already installed. (put dummie yoke in trans to keep from losing gear oil)
Lay towel over trans so as to not scratch engine compartment on the way in.
position floor jack under car in area of trans to assist in leveling of unit.

I just reinstalled my engine last week by myself (don't need an audience) in about 1/2 hour using above method.
That 1/2 hour is to just get engine in car, another few hours to get it all buttoned up.

Hope this helps,
Cranky

Tongue Pirate · #10 (**permalink**) 07-03-2005, 07:09 AM

From the side would definately be a good option!!!

Unfortunately for me I didn't have that the kind of space in the garage & living on a hill meant that i had to do it in the garage.

Looks like there are many good options here! I think the big thing is to get some help, at least one extra set of hands, & good tools to make things go as smooth as possible. Now I'm off to start bolting things back together