circuit breaker keeps popping

[davetherave]

I just put the battery on to my wiring for the first time and the circuit breaker keeps popping. The ammeter neelde goes to the far right ( positive) every time it resets. Dont see any obviuos shorts- any suggestiona as to how I should try and sort this out ? Picture of my starter solenoid and cicuit breaker wiring are attached.

David Orr ERA # 714

[rblong]

If you have a fuse box I would pull all them first, then install one at a time to see which one trips. If it trips with all out it is in the line side if circuit, If you install a fuse and it trips look at that device.

Bruce

[davetherave]

Thanks- I will pull all the fuses and then go at them one at a time. I will post how it goes.

David

[Rick Parker]

Just another thought, while testing the circuits during my rewiring it was suggested I used a 6 Volt dry cell like what is used in a camping lantern. I used an ohm/volt meter to check grounds and each side of the fuse block before attaching the battery. Using the lower power source will help eliminate the possibility of frying a wire run something before verifying all is well. The dash lights, parking and tail lights will all work, and you can verify voltage at all the hi draw items prior to attaching the regular 12 Volt car battery.

[strictlypersonl]

The power path is from the circuit breaker through the 27/54 junction to the ammeter. Then it goes back through the 28/53 connection (red wire now) to the top of the passenger's side fuse box. The alternator wire joins at that point - and that's the first thing I'd check: The alternator connections.

Make sure that the connections are correct, and if so, disconnect the heavy yellow wire. You may have an internal short in the alternator.

[davetherave]

I got it !

I spent a couple of hours on it- took out all the fuses and even disconnected the circuit breaker and used a VOM to make sure I had 12 volts to either side of the solenoid so the path from the trunk mounted battery was OK.

I dont have an engine or alternator installed at this point but your e-mail got me thinking and VOILA the ends of the alternator leads were touching- in fact the short welded them together . I undid that, put everything back together again and there is light !

Now, my turn signal on the left side doesnt work but the right side does and one of the toggle switches fell aaprt from the rooting around ( can those be fixed or do I need to get a new one ?)... but these are for another day.

Thanks for all your help!!

[rblong]

Great! Now you see why this forum is so great!

[strictlypersonl]

Originally Posted by davetherave

I got it !

I dont have an engine or alternator installed at this point but your e-mail got me thinking and VOILA the ends of the alternator leads were touching- in fact the short welded them together . I undid that, put everything back together again and there is light !

Once more, The Kid comes through...

Now, my turn signal on the left side doesnt work but the right side does and one of the toggle switches fell aaprt from the rooting around ( can those be fixed or do I need to get a new one ?)... but these are for another day.

Thanks for all your help!!

The contact plate in the front parking light may be reversed. See here and look for "To reverse the contact plate...

Give us a call for a new switch. They are not easy to fix.

[davetherave]

Left Parking LightThe lamp is brighter in park then when blinking. So I disassembled to reverse contact plate 180 degrees and the tang fell off the greeen wire: will try and find a replacement tang at a local parts place tomroow.

In the meantime, horns and fan do not work.

Horn no power at # 11 contacts, I have 12V at horn relay #30 & #85, 0V at #86 & #87. Checked connections at #48 and #49 and they seem OK. Any thoughts?

Fanno power at #44 and no power at #16 contacts, Fan relay has 12V at #30 & # 85 and 0V at #86 and # 87. Her again- any thoughts ?

I have 12V on all passenger side fuse panel terminals and 12V on the top terminal ONLY on the driver's side fuse panel.

Thanks for all your help.

[davetherave]

I repaired the contact plate for the front signal today. Now all my lights are at the correct brightness ( dim when parking lights are on) and when I move the turn signal wand they all flash properly. QUESTION: Both tail lights on each side ( top and bottom) flash when the turn signal is active- is this normal ?

Still have the horn and radiator fan issues stated in last e-mail. Needs some direction there. Thanks!!

David Orr
ERA # 714

[strictlypersonl]

[b]
Horn no power at # 11 contacts, I have 12V at horn relay #30 & #85, 0V at #86 & #87. Checked connections at #48 and #49 and they seem OK. Any thoughts?

Ground the pink wire from the horn relay using a sharp probe into the relay socket. Does the relay click?

Fanno power at #44 and no power at #16 contacts, Fan relay has 12V at #30 & # 85 and 0V at #86 and # 87. Her again- any thoughts ?

If there's power to #44 orange and #44 black wire is grounded, the fan should work. We've only had one bad fan over the years, but that's a possibility.

I have 12V on all passenger side fuse panel terminals and 12V on the top terminal ONLY on the driver's side fuse panel.

That's as it should be.

[davetherave]

( quote) Ground the pink wire from the horn relay using a sharp probe into the relay socket. Does the relay click?

NO. I have 12V at green wires into the relay, no power at the pink or purple and when I ground the pink nothing happens.

(quote) If there's power to #44 orange and #44 black wire is grounded, the fan should work. We've only had one bad fan over the years, but that's a possibility.

I have NO power to #44. At the relay, I have 12V at the orange wires and no power at the others.