Confounded English Door Latches!

[SSSammy]

Trying to get the doors dialed in after installing carpet .. way too many variables But whatever I do, there seems to be too much give in the striker post. The thing is mounted in a rubber bushing and it just moves when the latch hits it. If I shim the latch enough so that it closes with a moderate door slam, the door gasket is not compressed at all and the door is not flush. What am I missing?

thanks!
Sam

[Jim Holden]

Sam:

Drop a dime and call Jack at the shop. He (as you probably know) stitches up the carpets and seats and installs all the interiors in the turn key cars and will reveal all the secrets.

Whatever you do, don't ask him about Alex in Carlisle...

Jim

[strictlypersonl]

Make sure that the catch on the body is going fully into the latch on the door, not just to the first notch. If need be, we've got some nice shims that mount under the latch mechanism to move it toward the inside.

We normally just use washers underneath the catch bracket if the door needs to be moved in.

[CJ428CJ]

Make sure that the catch on the body is going fully into the latch on the door, not just to the first notch.

Ahmen. I didn't have this adjusted right when I first put my car together. After having the car on the road for a couple weeks, the passenger door went flying open while going around a corner. Instinctively my gf grabbed it and slammed it shut causing a chip in the corner of the door. I thought it was just me but another friend with a new ERA did the same thing several weeks later. He had to pay nearly $600 to have the chip fixed and the door repainted. I've been living with mine but I plan on getting it fixed soon. Make sure your door closes to the second notch and not just the first one.

Chris

[Kramer]

Hello Sam,

How did the carpet install go? Anything I should know before I get started.

If you are going to be around this weekend, let me know a good time and I can give you a call.

TS

[SSSammy]

I have shimmed both sides. Used some 1/4" thick nylon shims on the driver door latch and it still takes a whop with a rubber mallet on the striker to close it. Will look for a 3/8" shim, I guess. I don't like a stack of a jillion washers. Using 4 #10 washers on the passenger door, almost latches. Still fiddling with it. I have it sitting right now with the doors shut tight to teach the gaskets to stay compressed

Tom, the carpets are a nassssty job! Right up there with working with fiberglass. Problems are related to my lack of technique, of course. I'm using Weldwood Gel. It took a gallon. I used a cotton waste and foil pad 3/8" thick as insulation on the footboxes. Got it from jcwhitney .. looks just like the DynaMat product. Glue it down, then glue the carpet on top of it. Do NOT use it under the seats .. it makes the seat tracks bind up. Just lay the underseat carpet on the floor and let the seat bolts hold it down. Cut the carpet out from under the door hinge bolts so the doors will move forward far enough. Call me anytime Sat after 12:00 CST ..

Sam

[cobred]

Sammy, here is what I did with my doors. I removed the latches and aligned the doors exactly where I wanted them, all gaps front, rear and bottom and parrallel with the body. I found this is easy without fighting the latch. Then I installed the latch with 2 washers top and bottom and put a little white lube on the latch, this makes a big difference in the closing effort.
Then shim as needed always putting the same amount top and bottom. Another thing that makes a difference is moving the latch foward or back to get it to the correct depth with the striker on the door. A little movement makes a big difference.
One more thing, I would not use the nylon washers. Use metal, the wedge part of the latch is already mounted in rubber so you dont need more flexing parts.

[ERA2188]

I would recommend a quick call to Jack at ERA before diving in and possibly going in the wrong direction. All of the turnkey cars are perfetly set up and he should be able to share his "approach" with you. Rickd

[SSSammy]

Thanks to all who posted! I called Jack at ERA on Friday and yes, there is a "trick" Shimming is required under the striker plate (the black metal base plate that holds the striker post). But the trick is, you shim only the back two holes. this tilts the striker wedge in a way that causes more positive engagement with the latch. Use shims or washers to shim it 1/8" for the correct tilt.

Beautiful day, sunny and temps in the 60's later. Going for a short ride

Sam

[cscobra]

Glad it all worked out. MG used that door latch for all T-series Midgets from 1936-1955 (and likely before, on the P- and J-series Midgets). My 1952 TD latches have held solidly since I finished restoring the car in 1995--mighty important with reverse-opening doors! (This includes a roundtrip from Waco to Indianapolis and a lap on the Speedway; the lap was with the windscreen folded down).