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Drilling into painted fiberglass
I'm getting my car soon and there was a "mix up" at the factory (Peter!!!). I am building as close a clone as I can of his orginal csx car. Bottom line is I had requested holes be drilled into the proper position so I could install the street washer bottle and associated nipples to the right and left of the wiper arms. Well, that one slipped through the cracks, no big deal.
Anyone have an experience drilling into their car? A budy of mine has an ERA 289 and said he had to drill all his holes for the emblems and it was really no big deal. I assume I do my measurements, use masking tape, drill a pilot hole to start and slowly make it bigger to fit the size of the hole I need. John also told me that the area under the hole needs to be counter sunk so I can screw on the washer and nut that holds the nipple in place. Anyone done this? |
I did a number of holes in my Lonestar after painting, and pretty much the way you described "do my measurements, use masking tape, drill a pilot hole to start and slowly make it bigger to fit the size of the hole I need." Not that difficult, but as always, MEASURE 18 TIMES, DRILL ONCE!!
I didn't counter sink under ANY of my drilled holes, and would be wary of that. The fiberglass is not THAT thick, and I would be really nervous about judging the depth of the countersink!!!!! If the nipple is short though, I guess you have no other options. Can you find nipples with longer threads perhaps? Glyn |
Agree with Glyn....and use new or very sharp bits. Pilot holes a must.
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I spin the bits backwards, prevents the bit from lifting the gel coat.
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For me taping area big enough to prevent the dumb mistakes is a must. Final drill bit is run at high speed but very little pressure. Pilot hole, step up in sizes till close to final diameter. If final bit only has to increase hole by maybe 20% and is sharp, high speed but light pressure it will not grab a big bite.
Really no big deal, just measure twice. |
There are drill bits made especially for "Plastic". They have a sharper point (less included angle). Consequently less chance of chipping paint or damaging Fiberglass. Be sure any and all bits are VERY SHARP.
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I did the same as GlynMeek. Turned out good.
Dust off your work area a lot. :D :D |
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Mask the area of the hole to be drilled, lay out your measurement and coat the pilot bit with silicone, drill slowly, then use a silicone spray and spray into the pilot hole, coat the next bit with silicone and make sure "All" your bits are sharp. I've used this method on my Cobra and various boats over the years.
Also pilot point bits work the best, IMO |
Thanks guys I appreciate the advice...seems straight forward, measure three times, cut once. Use sharp bits...countersink possible gel coat.
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I'm going to ask a stupid ? but when you guys say spin the bit backwards I assume you mean in reverse correct?
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correct:):):)
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Drilling into the fiberglass is done with a sharp drill bit and I like to start with a very small drill first, like a 1/16 then after you have verified that the hole is in the correct location you can move up to the desired size. If the hole is off alittle you can use a 1/8 inch drill to hog it out to the correct location the chase it with your desired drill size. If you need more information just give me a call
Ron |
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