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07-10-2008, 06:53 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central,
NC
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #775
Posts: 324
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Not Ranked
It's always the small things that get you.
I had a Thunderbird which had a hydraulic clutch, but there was this short 1 inch cable... you can figure out the rest.
Glad to hear that you were able to get the Cobra home safely.
Ray
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07-10-2008, 11:34 AM
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Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Salem,,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 289 FIA #2100 Rio Red Wimbledon White Stripes 302 stroked to 331 Webers Richmond Road Race 5 speed
Posts: 782
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Not Ranked
I was under my ERA last night adjusting the brake and clutch pedals. I'm thinking of taking a socket head allen screw and drilling a hole through the head and safety wiring it to the arm.
__________________
Snakebit
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07-11-2008, 07:56 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Hyannis,
MA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA FIA #2039
Posts: 255
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Not Ranked
Tie Downs
Bob,
Tell me about the "tie downs built into the lower control arms". I've been using the two extra treaded holes in back of the rear cross member and forged eye bolts. The down side is crawling under the car to hook them.
Pat
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07-11-2008, 08:43 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,000
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Not Ranked
Here you go...
Quote:
Originally Posted by ack fia
Tell me about the "tie downs built into the lower control arms". I've been using the two extra treaded holes in back of the rear cross member and forged eye bolts. The down side is crawling under the car to hook them.
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BTW, I had the car back out on the road today after using LocTite on the set screw. Everything felt fine so what I think i might do, considering the likelihood of removing it again is probably small, is put a dab of J-B Weld in the middle of the spline and piece of metal extending from nine o'clock over to three o'clock thus holding the arm on even if the set-screw breaks off. If I ever have to remove the arm I'll just bust the J-B Welded metal piece loose by sticking a screw driver under it.
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07-11-2008, 09:14 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New Britain,
CT
Cobra Make, Engine: Size 10 Feet
Posts: 3,011
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Not Ranked
On the Jag-based suspension, there's a tie-bar between the lower shock mount and the hub carrier pivot shaft (if we built the suspension unit). It's got a hole in it big enough for a hook, or you can put a strap around it.
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07-15-2008, 08:19 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,000
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Not Ranked
Final Pic to Close Out This Thread
Frankly, the LocTite on the set-screw seems to be, and probably is, sufficient to ensure that the clutch arm doesn't vibrate loose. Not to mention the fact that once you know what's happened you can literally prop something behind your clutch pedal and then reach under the car from the driver's side and put the arm back on by feel and carefully limp home should it happen to you. That being said I did add this last bit of safety margin. It's simply a 1-1/4" fender washer with a dab of J-B Weld on the spline and washer-hole. Now if I need to remove the clutch arm sometime in the future I will have to whack this off with a screwdriver and mallet, but this will hold the arm securely should the set-screw manage to vibrate out past the LocTite.
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07-15-2008, 04:49 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
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Not Ranked
Hey Pat silly question
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07-15-2008, 05:07 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,000
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by RICK LAKE
PatrickT Pat will a screw go all the way through the part?
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Yes, it would if I drilled in to the splined piece -- it was just easier to use a little J-B Weld. You know, more half-ass that way....
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07-16-2008, 04:43 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New Britain,
CT
Cobra Make, Engine: Size 10 Feet
Posts: 3,011
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Not Ranked
I wouldn't obsess too much about the arm coming off. Pat's experience is the only one that I know of that's occurred in 15 years of using the splined connection. He's just special.
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07-16-2008, 04:59 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
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Not Ranked
He is a special GUY@#$!%^
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07-16-2008, 05:50 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,000
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by strictlypersonl
He's just special.
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Yes, my next project is to build a Cobra using nothing more than duct tape, coat hanger wire, and J-B Weld.
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07-16-2008, 06:55 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2004
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA-722, Pure Street in BRG
Posts: 192
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Not Ranked
I'm glad this thread came up. I was under my car the other day and checked the set screw and could take it out with my fingers it was that loose.
Thanks for the info!
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07-16-2008, 07:19 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,000
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankJohnson69
I was under my car the other day and checked the set screw and could take it out with my fingers it was that loose.
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Dang, I guess I'm not that special after all....
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07-16-2008, 09:35 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
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Not Ranked
You forgot bubblegum, baling wire, and spit
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