Camaro front brake calipers - "tick... tick... tick..."

Dangerous Doug · #1 (**permalink**) 05-03-2009, 06:58 PM

Bob, et al:

Cobra is running great. I've logged about 550 miles in a little under a month, and I'm shaking out a few details, the last of which is a noticable "tick...tick...tick..." coming from the front brakes as I roll. I've narrowed this down to some visible movement of the pads in the Camaro brake calipers. The pads fit okay, and are in no danger of coming loose, but I can rotate the rotor back and forth and see the pads shifting back and forth between the pins holding them in place.

Ever see this issue before?

I purchased the calipers from a local Chevrolet dealer (now gone) and the pads from my local auto parts store. I am not aware of any clips or springs to hold these pads and keep them from shifting.

I'd like to figure out how to get rid of this annoying (and a little embarrassing) "tick...tick...tick...". As a last resort, I'll upgrade to SSB's.

Any advice?

DD

cobred · #2 (**permalink**) 05-03-2009, 07:09 PM

The outer pads should have 2 tabs at the top that hook over the caliper. You take a big screwdriver between the rotor and bottom of the pad and pry the pad up, then hit the tabs down while holding the pad up. This removes the play in the outer pad and secures it to the caliper.

Dangerous Doug · #3 (**permalink**) 05-03-2009, 07:50 PM

Hhhmm, I'll go take a look. These tabs are attached to the pads, or are they a separate clip-on type tab?

I've got the wheel off, so out to the garage I go.

DD

cobred · #4 (**permalink**) 05-03-2009, 09:14 PM

The outers are part of the pad backing metal, the inners have a seperate clip. Its the outer pad that must be bent tighter, usually an 1/8 inch or so but makes noise when its not.

Karl Bebout · #5 (**permalink**) 05-03-2009, 09:29 PM

Large Chanelocks (water pump pliers, to some) work well to squeeze the tabs down tight on the calipers.

Dangerous Doug · #6 (**permalink**) 05-03-2009, 09:45 PM

Okay, so on the outer brake pad, do you mean the 2" long tab that is on the inner edge (i.e. the edge of the brake pad closest to the spindle)?

Give that a good 1/8" squeeze and the "tick... tick... tick..." is gone?

DD

strictlypersonl · #7 (**permalink**) 05-04-2009, 06:31 AM

This should help.

RICK LAKE · #8 (**permalink**) 05-04-2009, 06:48 AM

DangerousDoug Doug There is a clip for the inner pad that goes into the piston cup to hold it. You can see from Bob's picture about what to do with the outter pad. I also reccoemnd that you go to a parts store and get a small bottle of anti squeal from peramtex. It comes in red or blue in color. You want to add a thin coat to both pads where they mount or have contact to the piston. This will stop all pad ticking noises. For the spindle you want to get a very thin coat of high temp silicone grease for where the backing plates of the pads will rub on the spindle tabs when being applied. top and bottom. Don't get either of these fluids on the brake pad surface. The other key thing is to breakin the pads CORRECTLY. Do 3-5 heat cycles and let the pads cool off. Do this about 5 times for the best performance out of your brakes. If you don't they can glaze or burn the pads, glaze the rotor surfaces and your stopping distance will extend more than what you want. Rick L.

Dangerous Doug · #9 (**permalink**) 05-04-2009, 11:59 AM

Pictures worth a thousand words.

Didn't know about breaking in the pads, but I think I managed this by default. The first "runs" with the Cobra were short, and involved quite a bit of braking due to the hills near where I live. Good to know.

Permatex anti-squeal.

Thanks, guys. That helps immensely.

Doug

patrickt · #10 (**permalink**) 05-04-2009, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dangerous Doug

Permatex anti-squeal.

Thanks, guys. That helps immensely.

Doug

I'm sure you know this, but I'll say it anyway... the Permatex goo goes on the back of the pads, not where they touch the rotors.

RICK LAKE · #11 (**permalink**) 05-04-2009, 12:47 PM

patrickt That beautiful trailer queen you have has chrome rotors.

Boy are they shiney.

Rick L.

patrickt · #12 (**permalink**) 05-04-2009, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

patrickt That beautiful trailer queen you have has chrome rotors.

Boy are they shiney.

Rick L.

That's what you get from keeping her in a ziplock bag 5 months out of the year.

patrickt · #13 (**permalink**) 05-04-2009, 12:52 PM

patrickt · #14 (**permalink**) 05-04-2009, 01:03 PM

...and I know you've always coveted my outboard braked rear.

RICK LAKE · #15 (**permalink**) 05-04-2009, 01:15 PM

patrickt Yes I do like the out board brakes, but would then have to redo the suspension and shock for the car. The other issue would be to go to a quick change rearend like NJ200R did years ago. Not sure if he is even on the forum any more. Did a beautiful setup for his ERA. Changing the 2 gears would be the only issue. That rearend is built for 750 HP out of the box. How much wax are you using to kee p the bottom of the car clean??

NO dirt, no stone chips, no grass, TOO PERFECT.

Rick L.

patrickt · #16 (**permalink**) 05-04-2009, 01:22 PM

Ahh, but then you could upgrade to the bigger Sierras up front as well. Remember my FE only puts out around 450HP through the side pipes, so it's one of the "weaker sisters" on this forum. I only put the outboard rear in so that I could change the rear pads in under a minute, instead of spending half the day.

RICK LAKE · #17 (**permalink**) 05-04-2009, 06:12 PM

patrickt I have them already. As far as HP and torque with the street side pipes we are both in the same area of power. Race pipes I may have a little more, NOISE.

As far as the rear pads without the rug interior, it takes about 8 minutes with a screw gun to remove the panel. I have the trans swap down to 50 minutes solo. It would be quicker if not for the race seat and getting all the bolts out of the seat frame.

When are you going to send some nice weather up the coast and stop this dam rain. 4 days is ENOUGH!!!!!!

Stop washing the car.

It's clean enough. I want some sun for the garden. Rick L. Ps I like your wording of ONLY, is that crank power or RWHP???

patrickt · #18 (**permalink**) 05-04-2009, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

As far as the rear pads without the rug interior, it takes about 8 minutes with a screw gun to remove the panel. I have the trans swap down to 50 minutes solo. It would be quicker if not for the race seat and getting all the bolts out of the seat frame.

Are you serious? You have to remove your transmission to change your rear pads??? I thought you had that little trap door behind the seats that would kind of let you get to the pads???

RICK LAKE · #19 (**permalink**) 05-05-2009, 04:16 AM

patrickt Pat my car is old 428. There is a large plate that goes from the floor of the car on both side to 1/3 of the way up the back inside panel. It screws to the tunnel and back plate. I remove this panel and have access to the brakes and bleeders. Tunnel doesn't have to come out. It's tight and hot when I have been racing but no problem with using small heedle nose visegrips. Lucky.

Rick

patrickt · #20 (**permalink**) 05-05-2009, 05:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

I remove this panel and have access to the brakes and bleeders. Tunnel doesn't have to come out. It's tight and hot when I have been racing but no problem with using small heedle nose visegrips. Lucky.

Rick

OK, that's not so bad (not so bad that you are doing it, it would be a real PITA if it was me doing it

).