Getting Ready For ERA Build ... Suggestions ?

[tkb289]

OK guys ... I need some input.

I am on 'the list' at ERA for a 289 FIA build (in more 'street' trim) and looking for advice on things to do, not to do and to look out for.

I plan to go for a painted roller and do the interior, wiring, motor & trans. I am not as talented or adventurous as the guys that do the whole car, but willing to put some effort into it for the cost savings and fun.

The (3) biggest decisions are motor, transmission and color (postings on those to come )

Based on some posts and some digging on CC, I have come up with a list of guidelines. Some of this list could apply to a build from any manufacturer, the rest is more specific to ERA.

----------------
Any Manufacturer:

- Pick a reputable manufacturer (many to choose from that are represented in this forum)
- Have a good idea of what you want, while being open to ideas, stick with your 'vision'.
- Don't stray too far from the 'original recipe' (no usual color or motor), could effect resale value.
- Depending on how much work you want to do, get the car as 'done' as you can afford.
- Seriously consider a professionally built motor.

----------------
ERA:

- Listen to what Peter and Bob have to say, don't try to re-engineer the car.
- Go for the optional rear suspension with out-board brakes, makes changing the pads a lot less of a pain in the neck.
- Go for a bit thicker gauge wire from the battery to the starter.

----------------

-- The last option always recommended, is go for the Pin Drive wheels ... and here is where I'll catch some flack from the faithful ... I really like the bolt on Torque Thrust D wheels ... and it's not because they are less expensive. OK ... I said it, now let me have it, I can take it ...

----------------


So ... any suggestions ... what am I missing ???


- Tim

[Rickd]

There is nothing wrong with Torque Thrust wheels -the goal is to build WHAT YOU like, not what others prefer. It's a cool wheel and they have been used by quite a few ERA owners. Motor - Keith Craft or Ford Racing Products. You're not looking for 400+ HP as per your comments, so you don't have to go with a stroker (but a nice 331 would be cool). KC offers a 306 with 300+ hp, decent flowing aluminum heads, and a modest cam with good low end torque. Nice driver, or he can build anything you want including a real solid Dart block with 4.125 bore cylinders and a short stroke 347 for some real HP with AFR heads - that would be slick (probably cost double the 306). Take a good look at the rear end ratio you want to run and the OD gear you order in your Tremec 600 (or a Richmond Gear Street / Strip tranny with .74 od). I would recommend you consider a 3:31 rear with the .82 OD for a nice street driving combo. Check out one of the 'gear selector' sites to play with rear end and OD ratios to show you the rpm's you will be running in different gears. If you will do A LOT of turnpike / expressway driving at 85 mph, you might want to consider the .64 rear, otherwise you would be better with the .82. I went with the 3.54 rear and the .64 OD and I would change if I could to the 3.31 and .82 for a better rpm range in 4th on the street as well as 5th (not having the huge drop on shifts in moderate speed ranges 60-70 mph). The research is part of the fun - and you have already made one excellent decision going with ERA as the only one out there equal or better from an engineering standpoint is Kirkham.

[PANAVIA]

Tim, my sugestions are more technical and ground level than top level. -- invest in marking tape, pentel sharpies, ziplock bags, and collision wrap to protect the car in assembly process.

[1985 CCX]

New Slabside offering?

[FIA-ERA]

Tim, Welcome to the madness! Yes, trust in what Bob, Doug, and Peter says. They have done this time and time over. Yes, don't try to re invent the car. I was trying to find some photo's of a couple of 427 cars from the "new" batch of Shelby cars. One was black and the other was silver and they both had a "knock off" torque thrust wheel. They looked like PS Engineering wheels with maybe a Trigo adapters. They really looked great as Phil's wheels are just slightly different than American's. I personally have the Trigo FIA wheels and they just look right! The pin drives ARE very nice but I can't justify the price difference. I had a friend that had the same similar car and had the new ERA jag set up. He didn't really like it as much as the "old style". He said it wasn't as stable under hard bounces? He also might not had it set just right. But yes, it is far easier to work on for sure. The jag rear end (old style) weighs just an ass lode! I mean as much as the motor or more! The ERA unit is A LOT lighter too. Each of my 1/2 shafts are 42 pounds a piece! I will continue to try and find those pics. One more thing, include your wish list of items that you want from ERA at the beginning. Unless you want to shop around. They know where to get everything and they make it easy. I would get them to bond the chassis, have Tony paint it, maybe even get it as a roller, and then you can do the rest. It's like building a Rolls Royce out of race car parts. Pm anytime if you need more info. Thanks, Matt

[PANAVIA]

a fully assembled Jag rear is about as much as a 289 iron motor. -- with cage, pumpkin etc.

[patrickt]

Remember that if you want the undercar exhaust then you can't get the outboard braked rear. But since you're building more of a street car, there's a better than even chance that you'll never have to change the rear pads anyway. Think about what dash you want (some like or don't like the drop down dash). The quick-release steering hub is a little pricey, but there are some real advantages to having it (easier to work under the dash, theft deterrent, easy to change the orientation of the wheel because you might not want it straight). Powder coat everything, check your state laws on defrosters (some states actually require them), and then just look at every option that ERA offers and see if you want to buy it. The problem with that though is that every one of their options is really, really cool. While you're checking your state laws, check to see if you get any benefit from having a block that is a certain age (and thus bypass the emissions issue). Every state is different, but for some, having a "new engine" with an "old block" can really make a difference.

[mrmustang]

Originally Posted by tkb289

So ... any suggestions ... what am I missing ???


- Tim

Tim,

Keep the engine and transmission build simple. Small blocks all look the same from the outside, a 302/345hp Ford crate engine would look great with a period correct set of exhaust manifold/headers and valve covers. Intake is your choice but a simple 4V carb (sized accordingly) and dual plane manifold works wonders for driving.............



Bill S.

[ZOERA-SC7XX]

You don't need big HP with this car. A 289/302 with medium (350ish) HP will do very well and will be very driveable. Buy the heater/defroster unit and the large (16 inch) steering wheel. Trans is your choice (O.D. or not). I find the old style Jag rear is fine, but the exhaust should exit in front of the rear wheels. Torque Thrust wheels are nice and the color should be whatever you like. Good luck with your build.

[tkb289]

Originally Posted by Rickd

There is nothing wrong with Torque Thrust wheels -the goal is to build WHAT YOU like, not what others prefer. It's a cool wheel and they have been used by quite a few ERA owners. Motor - Keith Craft or Ford Racing Products. You're not looking for 400+ HP as per your comments, so you don't have to go with a stroker (but a nice 331 would be cool). KC offers a 306 with 300+ hp, decent flowing aluminum heads, and a modest cam with good low end torque. Nice driver, or he can build anything you want including a real solid Dart block with 4.125 bore cylinders and a short stroke 347 for some real HP with AFR heads - that would be slick (probably cost double the 306). Take a good look at the rear end ratio you want to run and the OD gear you order in your Tremec 600 (or a Richmond Gear Street / Strip tranny with .74 od). I would recommend you consider a 3:31 rear with the .82 OD for a nice street driving combo. Check out one of the 'gear selector' sites to play with rear end and OD ratios to show you the rpm's you will be running in different gears. If you will do A LOT of turnpike / expressway driving at 85 mph, you might want to consider the .64 rear, otherwise you would be better with the .82. I went with the 3.54 rear and the .64 OD and I would change if I could to the 3.31 and .82 for a better rpm range in 4th on the street as well as 5th (not having the huge drop on shifts in moderate speed ranges 60-70 mph). The research is part of the fun - and you have already made one excellent decision going with ERA as the only one out there equal or better from an engineering standpoint is Kirkham.

Thanks for the info, I'll look at the 'gear selector' sites. I don't plan on a lot of freeway driving, but would like some type of 5th gear, so it will cruise at a lower RPM than say a 4 speed top loader would. I'll plug in the 3:31 and 0.82 OD and see how it looks.

Regards,

- Tim

[tkb289]

Originally Posted by PANAVIA

Tim, my sugestions are more technical and ground level than top level. -- invest in marking tape, pentel sharpies, ziplock bags, and collision wrap to protect the car in assembly process.

Steve,

Good advice, I already have some of the stuff, but the biggest prep I will have is cleaning out my garage ... ... to make some room !

- Tim

[tkb289]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Remember that if you want the undercar exhaust then you can't get the outboard braked rear. But since you're building more of a street car, there's a better than even chance that you'll never have to change the rear pads anyway. Think about what dash you want (some like or don't like the drop down dash). The quick-release steering hub is a little pricey, but there are some real advantages to having it (easier to work under the dash, theft deterrent, easy to change the orientation of the wheel because you might not want it straight). Powder coat everything, check your state laws on defrosters (some states actually require them), and then just look at every option that ERA offers and see if you want to buy it. The problem with that though is that every one of their options is really, really cool. While you're checking your state laws, check to see if you get any benefit from having a block that is a certain age (and thus bypass the emissions issue). Every state is different, but for some, having a "new engine" with an "old block" can really make a difference.

Good point about the rear brakes ... since I am not racing, I won't need to replace them all that often, just periodic brake bleeding. Something to consider.

Exhaust, planing on the FIA exhaust, or a system a bit quieter, but that still exits in front of the rear tire (kind of like the GT350 Mustang), need to talk to the ERA guys about this.

The dash is a good question. I like all (3) that ERA offers, the flat bottom FIA dash, the street 'dropped dash' and the flat bottom 427 style dash. The biggest issue will be space for my right knee. I sat in Dangerous Doug's FIA with the FIA dash, and I am jammed right into the dash, with my right knee. Peter said they can tweak things a bit, but I have a feeling the 'dropped dash' is out, just for that reason alone.

Powder coat the frame ... yes, what else needs it?

I do plan on a heater, defroster and wipers, the whole shot.

Motor wise, an 'old block' does me no good. California has a process where 500 cars per year, are issued a special exemption (SB-100) provided all of the paperwork is done properly and on time ... the whole deal is well documented here on CC and I have a number of SB-100 veterans to call on for advice ... right guys ??? (Rodney, Doug(s), Steve ... hello ... hello ... )

Many things to consider, part of the fun!

- Tim

[tkb289]

Originally Posted by mrmustang

Tim,

Keep the engine and transmission build simple. Small blocks all look the same from the outside, a 302/345hp Ford crate engine would look great with a period correct set of exhaust manifold/headers and valve covers. Intake is your choice but a simple 4V carb (sized accordingly) and dual plane manifold works wonders for driving.............



Bill S.

Bill,

Sound advice ... I want something I can drive in traffic and that won't be prone to overheating. Something that looks 'vintage' with the manifolds, valve covers and air cleaner, but up to date on the inside ... similar to the car itself. The ERA frame and suspension is quite different than the cars built in the 60's. Might be back to you for more recommendations when the time comes.

Thanks!

- Tim

[tkb289]

Originally Posted by 1985 CCX

New Slabside offering?

Jeff ... Very tempting ... now especially since it's a reality!

When I started this quest long ago ... I really wanted a 'slab side'. Then I started looking at the FIA body and fell in love with that. Some of the same look as the early car, but with a bit more bulk, so to speak. What I have in mind is a mix of both ... a racy street car / street look race car ... different to be sure.

That being said, I am thrilled to have the choice, the new car is stunning.

- Tim

[tkb289]

Originally Posted by FIA-ERA

Tim, Welcome to the madness! Yes, trust in what Bob, Doug, and Peter says. They have done this time and time over. Yes, don't try to re invent the car. I was trying to find some photo's of a couple of 427 cars from the "new" batch of Shelby cars. One was black and the other was silver and they both had a "knock off" torque thrust wheel. They looked like PS Engineering wheels with maybe a Trigo adapters. They really looked great as Phil's wheels are just slightly different than American's. I personally have the Trigo FIA wheels and they just look right! The pin drives ARE very nice but I can't justify the price difference. I had a friend that had the same similar car and had the new ERA jag set up. He didn't really like it as much as the "old style". He said it wasn't as stable under hard bounces? He also might not had it set just right. But yes, it is far easier to work on for sure. The jag rear end (old style) weighs just an ass lode! I mean as much as the motor or more! The ERA unit is A LOT lighter too. Each of my 1/2 shafts are 42 pounds a piece! I will continue to try and find those pics. One more thing, include your wish list of items that you want from ERA at the beginning. Unless you want to shop around. They know where to get everything and they make it easy. I would get them to bond the chassis, have Tony paint it, maybe even get it as a roller, and then you can do the rest. It's like building a Rolls Royce out of race car parts. Pm anytime if you need more info. Thanks, Matt

Matt,

Interesting about the 'feel' of the Jag setup vs the ERA custom setup. You have the Jag setup, correct ... how do you like it?

I am going for the painted roller and will take a close look at the 'options'.

Thanks!

- Tim

[tkb289]

Originally Posted by ZOERA-SC7XX

You don't need big HP with this car. A 289/302 with medium (350ish) HP will do very well and will be very driveable. Buy the heater/defroster unit and the large (16 inch) steering wheel. Trans is your choice (O.D. or not). I find the old style Jag rear is fine, but the exhaust should exit in front of the rear wheels. Torque Thrust wheels are nice and the color should be whatever you like. Good luck with your build.

I am with you ... going for the complete heater / defroster, it will come in handy. I might have to go with the smaller steering wheel, space is an issue for me. I'll do some more research on the rear suspension, both are probably equally good choices for me.

Color ... black is on the list (know it's your favorite) ... but probably a deep blue or dark BRG or ??? ... I have a bit to go on this decision ...

- Tim

[Dangerous Doug]

Tim,
You already know most of my advise:

Powder-coat and bonded body option
Have ERA install the front suspension (which, as a roller the point is moot...)
SINGLE HOOP ROLL BAR (I know... I know...)
Ford Crate 302
TKO-600 with 0.82 (I have 3.54---lots of giddyup, and good cruising speed)
ERA rear with outboard brakes
15" tires the right size are getting harder to find, Firestone Firehawks worked for me
I like the look of the bumper overriders (think that's what they call them, chrome bumpers instead of quick jacks---though, I like my quick jacks....)
You won't need an oil cooler in CA. I'm working on a panel to close off the lower portion of the intake (splits oil cooler inlet and radiator inlet) I'll show you what I am doing in about a week.
It's cheaper to have them do the paint with their vendor in CT. Painted roller is smart. That'll save you enough to plunk down the $2k for the TKO.

Oh, buy your TKO-600, clutch stuff from Mike Fortes. Use a Quicktime bellhousing, not the Lakewood. I can help you set up your hydraulic throwout bearing.

The most important decision, though, has already been made, and you chose well. ERA.

It's all good.
DD

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by tkb289

Matt,

Interesting about the 'feel' of the Jag setup vs the ERA custom setup. You have the Jag setup, correct ... how do you like it?

I am going for the painted roller and will take a close look at the 'options'.

Thanks!

- Tim

Tim,

The heater/defroster is a nice add that I'm sure you'll be happy you installed it. The heater on my SPF actually works.

Agree with DD on the engine and trans. PLENTY of get up an go with the right gearing for freeway cruising. I think the Torq-Thrust wheels would look fantastic on an FIA car.

You mentioned dark Blue as a possible color. I always thought that this color blue would look great on an FIA car.

[tkb289]

Originally Posted by Dangerous Doug

Tim,
You already know most of my advise:

Powder-coat and bonded body option
Have ERA install the front suspension (which, as a roller the point is moot...)
SINGLE HOOP ROLL BAR (I know... I know...)
Ford Crate 302
TKO-600 with 0.82 (I have 3.54---lots of giddyup, and good cruising speed)
ERA rear with outboard brakes
15" tires the right size are getting harder to find, Firestone Firehawks worked for me
I like the look of the bumper overriders (think that's what they call them, chrome bumpers instead of quick jacks---though, I like my quick jacks....)
You won't need an oil cooler in CA. I'm working on a panel to close off the lower portion of the intake (splits oil cooler inlet and radiator inlet) I'll show you what I am doing in about a week.
It's cheaper to have them do the paint with their vendor in CT. Painted roller is smart. That'll save you enough to plunk down the $2k for the TKO.

Oh, buy your TKO-600, clutch stuff from Mike Fortes. Use a Quicktime bellhousing, not the Lakewood. I can help you set up your hydraulic throwout bearing.

The most important decision, though, has already been made, and you chose well. ERA.

It's all good.
DD

Doug,

Thanks as always for the info ... it's great to have an example so close!

I'll have to take a look what the differences are between the 3.31 and 0.82 that was suggested, vs the setup you have with 3.54 and 0.82. They don't sound that dissimilar.

At this point, I will skip the oil cooler, but will probably leave the opening there, I like the way it looks.

Have fun with your car!

- Tim

[tkb289]

Originally Posted by Got the Bug

Tim,

The heater/defroster is a nice add that I'm sure you'll be happy you installed it. The heater on my SPF actually works.

Agree with DD on the engine and trans. PLENTY of get up an go with the right gearing for freeway cruising. I think the Torq-Thrust wheels would look fantastic on an FIA car.

You mentioned dark Blue as a possible color. I always thought that this color blue would look great on an FIA car.

Doug ... nice car, like the color too!

I have started a collection of photos for reference. Before I make the final choice, I'll need to look at some of the different colors in person. Kind of like the Indigo, that Jerome has on his SPF, very nice.

Thanks!

- Tim