going from EFI to carb. !!help!!

big_rob · #1 (**permalink**) 01-27-2004, 07:03 AM

i recently purchased a 91 gt for the donor to ffr ROADSTER
i want go from efi to carb and want to know if there are any good books out there with good detail on this procedure.
also i would like to go to 5 lug, and disc in the rear is there a kit out there to replace the drums and axles or do i need to get it all seperate (axles, bearings, posi unit, etc...) or will a 94-95 gt rear setup work in the ffr roadster. im open to any advice or direction.
thanks for your help.
Big ROB (THE ROOKIE FOR NOW)
P.S. (another rookie question) if your looking at the block from the front of a stock 302(in the 91 GT i just bought), at the eight-o-clock position, below the alternator and to the left of the crank and water pump, WHAT IS THE THING AND WHAT DOES IT DO AND CAN I GET RID OF IT WHEN I GO TO CARB. my best guess is it has somthing to do with emissions, the hayes book i bought only has it labled as " A/P" and i cant find any other info on it in the rest of the book. thanks again

Doc_Naughty · #2 (**permalink**) 02-07-2004, 11:33 PM

Doc here,

Sounds like your describing the "Air Pump", also known as the "Air Injection Pump". It blows cool air thru your engine and onto your exhaust valves. It theory, it floods the exhaust charge with fresh air, cooling it down a bit but also helping in the final phases of combustion so you don't polute the atmosphere with raw, unburned fuel.

They do make idler pullies to eliminate this piece of junk! If you live in a "SMOG" state, you may be creating a real headache for yourself by removing it. Check out your smog/registration laws first.

Most Cobras are (IMHO) probably NOT running a "A/P".

Number one rule for Cobras:
"It doesn't have anything on it that doesn't make it go faster!"
Brock Yates

Doc

Bruce Edwards · #3 (**permalink**) 02-08-2004, 04:33 AM

It is not hard to swap from EFI to carb. Just take it all off, the intake and all hang on parts. You will need a intake, 600 cfm carb for a stock engine, ditributer, pull all the stuff off the front, water pump, pulleys brackets. Replace the water pump with an early model pump, get a early set of pulleys and a alternator bracket kit form Ford racing or the like. Put it all back together set the timing around 7 to see how she does and dial it in from there.
Easy!

big_rob · #4 (**permalink**) 02-08-2004, 08:43 AM

thanks bruce

Doc_Naughty · #5 (**permalink**) 02-08-2004, 10:58 AM

There is a issue with the distributor gear when going from a EFI "Steel" roller cam. Make sure you get a distributor that has a brass or steel gear on it. If you don't, the cam gear will CHEW UP the distributor gear and flood your engine with metal particles that instantly destroy main and rod bearings.

There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) from Ford regarding this issue. Info can also be found at numerous aftremarket race part suppliers. MSD makes a real nice Billet unit that is compatible.

Doc

Bruce Edwards · #6 (**permalink**) 02-08-2004, 02:56 PM

As Doc, said you should swap the distributer gear from the old distributer to your replacement. Not knowing the age of your engine I was not thinking about the roller cam that may be in your engine.
Thanks Doc for getting that one.

Doc_Naughty · #7 (**permalink**) 02-08-2004, 05:02 PM

No Problem . . .

Just trying to save someone the heartache that I once went thru with a 351/427 stroker motor. It was a nightmare. Wasted a crank and two rods in the learning process.

Hope this helps out others who read this forum, it's the absolute best for info on Cobras ( and other brand X cars).

Always glad to help . . .

Doc

Bruce Edwards · #8 (**permalink**) 02-08-2004, 05:38 PM

Always sucks to find out things the hard way. Just glad we can help some folks not make some of the same mistakes.