Oil selection (10/2009)

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Good stuff. Remember to fill the new filter up with oil before you screw it back on. It holds almost a quart and if you don't do that you'll starve the engine while the pressure fills it up.

Yes, thank you, but honestly I've always done that in the past anyway with other cars. That's the easy part. The part that I get "verklempt" about is getting the Kirkham up in the air. Don't discount the "klutz" or "OCD" factors.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

The part that I get "verklempt" about is getting the Kirkham up in the air. Don't discount the "klutz" or "OCD" factors.

I'm pretty careful about getting under my car, and I've seen cars slip off and hurt people. We even had a "round tube frame" car slip off a couple years ago (all the more reason to have the rectangular frame cars). Seriously though, I don't change my oil with jack stands or a lift. I use two by tens nailed together under the wheels with the back wheels chocked -- it works great. I really think it's the safest way to work solo. Even though you're a PITA, we wouldn't want anything happening to you.

[RodKnock]

Yea, I'll just head out to the backyard where I keep our family lumberyard.

No really, I've done jackstands before on cars and I'm in very good physical shape, so I don't have to lift it very high. Although my large pecs could get in the way.

[patrickt]

I don't have a good feeling about this.

[Gunner]

Originally Posted by patrickt

I'm pretty careful about getting under my car, and I've seen cars slip off and hurt people.

Working under cars is one of my special horrors - not only because the damn things drip nasty stuff on you. I always chock and block to the max. I still have nightmares about a buddy and a 72 Mustang on four jackstands, on a packed gravel surface, with him all the way under whanging and banging to get some used part loose. The car wobbled three or four inches while he worked. Yes, he got out okay but I nearly killed him when he crawled out.

Rod, I settled on plain old Castrol 5W-30 for this change, which may not last very long if I have to pull the oil plumbing apart again. I'll be watching oil pressures carefully to see if the thinner grade - down from the 10W-40 Castrol the original owner used - has any trouble.

In the end, a mild hydraulic engine that won't see anything but mild track time (if that), the cooler and thermostat taking care of temps, and a plan for fairly frequent changes let me go with a fairly ordinary good quality dino oil instead of anything more exotic.

Anyone have preferences for a filter? I was going to replace the Fram with the same thing; I've had good luck with Fram products.

[Got the Bug]

Rodney,

You could always take it down to Steve at The Ranch. You wouldn't have to bother with it and they'll treat you well.

I don't mind doing the job myself, but I hate having to lug the old oil down to Kragen to dump it.

[Got the Bug]

Gunner,

Wix or Napa filters (same thing) get good reviews. I don't think you'll find a ton of Fram fans around here, but if they've worked for you, stick with it.

Here's the link to the study that's been posted on CC in the past.

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...tml#motorcraft

[StreetSnake]

First off, I'm in ohio. I used to run Joe Gibbs XP4 (15-50) but the shop who put on my oil thermostat talked me into royal purple, I think 5-15. I was concerned about how thick (maple syrup) with cold start up, etc. But the "sticking" qualities have got me thinking again. I wish we all could come to a consensus. What do you all think. 427 windsor, 550HP/550TQ.

Accusump: I have been thinking about installing one of these systems on my car as well. How many different components need to be ordered? I notice they don't have a kit. I'd like to get it put on over the winter.

[Got the Bug]

StreetSnake - Did you buy or build the motor? If you bought it as a crate motor, you should find out what the builder recommends.

[StreetSnake]

Eric at Performance Engineering in Ross, OH built it. He recommended the XP4. I'll have to give him a call and see if he is recommending the same thing. I just spend alot of money (for me that is) and I want this thing to last. Also, maybe not due to the oil, but i spun the distributor gear off it while running XP4.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by Got the Bug

Rodney,

You could always take it down to Steve at The Ranch. You wouldn't have to bother with it and they'll treat you well.

I don't mind doing the job myself, but I hate having to lug the old oil down to Kragen to dump it.

I actually enjoy doing the job too, I know me very well and I'm very careful, but the as you said, the disposal of oil is a royal pain.

Patrick, don't worry, I've changed a lot of "earl" in my life, just haven't done it by myself on the Kirkham. You could always build some of those fancy ramps you have or maybe, I'll buy some race ramps, or, or, or maybe even a Kwik Lift...

[RodKnock]

Gunner, I like K&N's, Fram HP series, and many have recommended Moroso too.

[bobcowan]

Originally Posted by Gunner

Working under cars is one of my special horrors - .

Then you need one of these.

Originally Posted by Gunner

Rod, I settled on plain old Castrol 5W-30 for this change,

In the end, a mild hydraulic engine that won't see anything but mild track time (if that), the cooler and thermostat taking care of temps, and a plan for fairly frequent changes let me go with a fairly ordinary good quality dino oil instead of anything more exotic..

I think you're absolutly right. All the ASE oils are good, and all have their perks and drawbacks. For the vast majority of cars, a good dino oil changed regularly is all they need. Spending more doesn't get you more; there's no "value added".

Originally Posted by Gunner

Anyone have preferences for a filter? I was going to replace the Fram with the same thing; I've had good luck with Fram products.

Fram is probably the worst one on the market. I use a Purolater Pro-1 or Motorcraft. Both are easy to come by, and relativly inexpensive.

Originally Posted by StreetSnake

I wish we all could come to a consensus. What do you all think. 427 windsor, 550HP/550TQ. .

You won't really find a consensus. Mostly because each car has some differant uses. I use only RP; but I put in a lot of track miles. My street cars get a synthetic blend for the longer drain intervals.

Originally Posted by Gunner

Accusump: I have been thinking about installing one of these systems on my car as well. How many different components need to be ordered? I notice they don't have a kit. I'd like to get it put on over the winter.

They do have installation kits. But, unless you're tracking the car, the Accusump is not necessary. It adds weight, complexity, expense, and leak points that you really don't need. Looks cool, though.

But, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong.

[Got the Bug]

Bob,

I agree with you regarding the Accusump, but to each his own.

People swear by synthetic oil for street cars, but I've gotten 200K miles out of two different vehicles using any oil (dealer oil, Jiffy Lube's finest, etc) and filter. That's with oil change intervals of 5K to 6K miles against the factory recommendation of 7.5k miles.

My wife's MBZ uses Mobil 1 synthetic, because that's what the factory recommends. 11K to 13K oil change intervals...seems crazy.

[PANAVIA]

If people need help with the oiling Systems, feel free to come down.

we have bulk disposal available, but we do have to pay for its removal.

Feel free to call - PM, carrier pigeon, flaming arrow.

[Gunner]

Originally Posted by bobcowan

But, unless you're tracking the car, the Accusump is not necessary. It adds weight, complexity, expense, and leak points that you really don't need.

Just a correction, I wasn't the one who posted about the Accusump.

Anyone use/used oil heaters as a reasonable option for reduction in wear? Most seem to need to be mounted to the bottom of the pan, a chancy location in these ground-scrapers. It does seem like 100W or so of heat applied for an hour before starting would help in many ways.

[bobcowan]

Originally Posted by Gunner

Just a correction, I wasn't the one who posted about the Accusump.

Anyone use/used oil heaters as a reasonable option for reduction in wear? Most seem to need to be mounted to the bottom of the pan, a chancy location in these ground-scrapers. It does seem like 100W or so of heat applied for an hour before starting would help in many ways.

A friend of mine did that. But only because he wanted to use a straight 50 racing oil. Oil that thick needs help on a cold morning. I use a 10W-40, so morning starts are not a problem.

There's no evidence that oil pan heaters will significantly decrease engine wear for most cars.

I don't think start up engine wear is that big of a deal. No DD has anything like that, and they easily last 100K miles. It's pretty rare for a CObra to see that many miles. Just drive it and don't worry about it.

[RodKnock]

Well, I ordered the Joe Gibbs Hot Rod Racing 15W-50 conventional racing oil.

$8/quart It better be good.

Maybe I should have picked up a hot dog and some engine oil from 7/11.

[cobred]

Curious, this thread came up just after I read an article in this months Muscle car review magazine. I thought the zinc was only important to break in a solid cam but they said you can round a lobe at any time. My engine has 5000 miles on it now but I am looking into something for next oil change, not sure what yet but this thread is very informative.
Has anyone looked into or used Slick 50, do they still sell it? Years ago my boss had a mild 428 in his truck, we rebuilt the engine and after the propper break in he used the slick 50. after very few miles he had to lower his idle about 100 rpms, I guess from less fricton. Any thoughts?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by cobred

Years ago my boss had a mild 428 in his truck, we rebuilt the engine and after the propper break in he used the slick 50. after very few miles he had to lower his idle about 100 rpms, I guess from less fricton. Any thoughts?

A new engine will normally do that as it breaks in over the first couple thousand miles -- I doubt Slick50 had anything to do with it. There are a lot of "snake oil" additives on the market. Your best bet is to use a quality oil from the get-go. Solid flat tappets need more zinc/phos. than a hydraulic, but there is no downside to having a high zinc/phos. content with your hydraulic cam unless you have a catalytic converter (which 99% of Cobras don't).