Oil selection (10/2009)

[Gunner]

I know, OMG, not another oil thread... but after reading a good selection of the previous threads, the last of which was around April this year, I thought I'd throw out some questions and comments.

707 has 5,700 miles on it and according to the prior owner, is due for a change about now (once a year, just before winter hibernation - although there will be less of this hibernation stuff here on the sunny end of the country). He's been running Castrol GTX 10W-40, which appears to have been a good choice until recent reduction of ZDDP.

So for a well-broken-in FE, relatively mild build with hydraulic flats, mostly street driving but in temps from mid-50s part of the year, 100+ part of the year, and maybe 65-80 about half the year... I get the impression that oil selection is not too critical. I want high zinc, good detergent levels and protection from the time I start it at 50 degrees until I run it street-hard at 105. It's got a Canton pan, remote oil filter and cooler, so I'd guess capacity at around 9 quarts. Slow to warm up, but I will be adding a Canton thermostat to even out the temps.

Joe Lapine recommended Honda motorcycle oil, 10W-40. The most articulate voice in the recent oil threads seems to be patrickt, who was running a funky blend in April because Brad Penn didn't have a 10W-40. They do now. The only comment I have is that both these gents live in a cooler climate, and I couldn't find any definitive posts from anyone in the Southwest arc.

Climate here tends to be warm to hot much of the driveable year, and I can say that driving in temps below 50 would be very rare - am I better off with a 20W-50 than a 10W-40? (Side note: I've always avoided 10-40's because I read a very solid technical article a number of years ago claiming that this was the hardest viscosity spread to create and prone to early breakdown - comments?)

So, knowing that any of these is probably a good a choice as any other, comments on:

• Honda GN4 10W-40
• Brad Penn 10W-40
• Brad Penn 20W-50
• Joe Gibbs 15W-50 Hot Rod Oil

?

[zrayr]

I live in the SW. Pretty hot here most of the summer, and I'm out in it, sometimes driving all day across west (uninhabited) Texas. Have driven this engine over 33,000 miles, & use Mobil 1 15-50. It has plenty of zddp, but you can add: http://www.cam-shield.com/ if you like. I have a small block now, but used the same oil in a FE when I had it with the same good results: no leaks, no measurable wear, no problems.

Z. Ray

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Gunner

The most articulate voice in the recent oil threads seems to be patrickt, who was running a funky blend in April because Brad Penn didn't have a 10W-40. They do now.

No surprise there. Brad Penn also has a 15w-40, which I plan to use when I'm done using the stuff I have now. That should be just fine for your engine and climate.


EDIT -- I just checked, you can even buy it off Amazon.com now.

[kitcarbp]

The first requirement is to ensure you have the adequate ZDDP levels this means 1200 ppm or higher based on the the current data out there from lube manufacturers. This can be had by either buying the numerous racing oils available on the market suited for the flat tappet motors or using an off the shelf oil with less than 1200 ppm (nowadays I think 500-800 ppm is more common on the published data sheets) and then add the ZDDP containing oil additives on the market (include some the cam break-in oil additives). Now regarding the viscosity question for your climate in CA assuming this is street driven and does not spend time racing at high rpm, oils in the 10-30 and 10-40 range or even 15-40 (Shell Rotella-T) will be fine. These days, the engine oil technology in even the cheapest no-name SAE spec oils are light years ahead of where we were when the these V8s were made. The 15W-50 mobil 1 ref, is a synthetic and is claimed to have ZDDP in the 1300/1400 ppm range and would also work. Synthetic is really not necessary unless you race and your oil temps sit north of 240F. Selection could also depend on the bottom end build and clearances being used etc etc. But assuming nothing unique regarding bearing clearances above still applies.

[Bob In Ct]

Redline sells a ZDDP additive. If you can use synthetic in your FE all the redline street viscosities have the higher ZDDP.

www.redlineoil.com

Bob

[zrayr]

Originally Posted by kitcarbp

"................... The 15W-50 mobil 1 ref, is a synthetic and is claimed to have ZDDP in the 1300/1400 ppm range and would also work. Synthetic is really not necessary unless you race and your oil temps sit north of 240F. ......................"

Mobil 1 15w-50 ............................. 1200 ppm zddp

Mobil 1 0w-40 ..............................1000 ppm zddp

Mobil 1 5w-50 .............................. 1000 ppm zddp

Mobil 1 10w-30 High Mileage .......... 1000 ppm zddp

Mobil 1 10w-40 High Mileage .......... 1000 ppm zddp

Mobil 1 20w-50 V- Twin ................ 1600 ppm zddp

Mobil 1 0w-20 Racing ................... 1750 ppm zddp

Mobil 1 0w-30 Racing ................... 1750 ppm zddp


main benefit, as I see it, to the synthetic oils, is reduced wear. A good thing regardless of your oil temperature, etc.


Z. Ray

[patrickt]

One aspect of oil that is iimportant to us and that is rarely mentioned is the "cling" factor. Our cars might sit for a couple/few weeks in between rides. That's something to think about. Yes, BP clings well. How well? Who knows. Somebody on the last thread about oil was saying that synthetics do not cling well over time. I don't know.

[601HP]

I've been using Shell Rotella T 15-40 in my side-oiler and my Powerstroke.
David

[fastd]

how come I don't see people recommending Royal Purple more; whenever I look at a comparison test, it always seems to come out on top. What am I missing?

[Got the Bug]

Not sure if you want to go standard or synthetic, but keep in mind that the Brad Penn is a synthetic blend.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by Got the Bug

Not sure if you want to go standard or synthetic, but keep in mind that the Brad Penn is a synthetic blend.

I know Roush states to use dino oil for the 1st 3,000 miles. Though I know Gunner's engine wasn't built by Roush, with 5,700 miles, he should fine with it in there. I was using Redline, but at around 500 miles, switched back to dino oil for now.

I think any of the oils mentioned will be great. I'd be tempted to use Redline again, since their ZDDP levels are high.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

I think any of the oils mentioned will be great. I'd be tempted to use Redline again, since their ZDDP levels are high.

He has a reasonably mild, hydraulic cam FE. Almost any oil will be fine for him. Even the oil you buy at 7-11 because your oil light is flickering.

[bobcowan]

Originally Posted by fastd

how come I don't see people recommending Royal Purple more; whenever I look at a comparison test, it always seems to come out on top. What am I missing?

That's what I use, both the Cobra and my DD '08 Mustang. The Cobra gets 10W-40, and the Mustang gets 5W-30. After about 8,500 miles, I changed the oil in the Mustang and did a UOA. The oil was still in good shape, and had more miles left in it. Zinc was 893, with the Universal Averages quoted as 822. I'll change it again at 10K miles.

I havn't done a UOA from the CObra.

I was using Mobile 1 15W-50 in my Harley. It was the old stuff, not the new stuff. At about 4K miles, I changed it and did a UOA. It was all used up. I'll use M1 one more time, because I still have some left in the basement. But I'll change it sooner than 4K miles.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by patrickt

He has a reasonably mild, hydraulic cam FE. Almost any oil will be fine for him. Even the oil you buy at 7-11 because your oil light is flickering.

That's what that little light means on my dash.

Don't diss 7-11, they make really good hot dogs, and the best ones are the ones that have been rotating around for a few days already.

Yep, I've got nothing............................still nothing.

[392cobra]

How well does Red Line oil measure up in y'alls opinion ?

[autobody prof.]

Just throwing this out. Google Amsoil vs. Royal Purple and also Amsoil and ZDDP. You may be suprised.

Don

[zrayr]

Originally Posted by fastd

how come I don't see people recommending Royal Purple more; whenever I look at a comparison test, it always seems to come out on top. What am I missing?

I've seen it recommended, but the price is a killer. I don't see it being that much, or any, better than the Mobil 1 15w-50 that I'm using, or I'd be in line buying it.

Z. Ray

[bobcowan]

Originally Posted by autobody prof.

Just throwing this out. Google Amsoil vs. Royal Purple and also Amsoil and ZDDP. You may be suprised.

Don

What you get is a long list of sites touting Amsoil. But, they also sell Amsoil. Hmmm.

You also get a bunch of sites just like this one, with long threads by people claiming one oil is better than another.

What you don't get, is solid facts and data to support any of it.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by bobcowan

What you get is a long list of sites touting Amsoil. But, they also sell Amsoil. Hmmm.

I've always been thrown by the name. "Amsoil" sounds like "Amway," and I start thinking about down on their luck neighbors knocking on your door trying to sell you soap off the back of a wagon.

[fastd]

I don't know where I saw comparison report (I thought I found it here). Check it out; Royal Purple crushes Mobil 1.

http://www.qmi.no/teknisk/Norway%20p...odorecover.pdf