Coolant leak

[philminotti]

Need a little help here-

I was getting ready to start my new 482 for the first time, filled it with coolant. New Pond block, new Edelbrock ported heads. I noticed a good trickle of coolant collecting at the head-deck junction just below the #2 exhaust port. No coolant in any of the cylinders, no coolant coming out of any of the exhaust bolt holes or the exhaust ports themselves. The coolant doesn't seem to be tracking from anywhere else. When I wipe it clean, it immediately recollects.

I guess I'm going to have to pull the head off, but does anyone have any ideas what this could be? Pinhole in the deck or the head itself? Like I said, this motor has not been started yet.

Thanks for any ideas.

phil

[kitcarbp]

would pressurizing the system with shop air help you narrow down the source ? it may help pinpoint other leaks as well. I would do this before the tear down. some pics would be helpful to orient us. do you suspect porosity in head or block ? Was porting on heads agressive and was it close to coolant passage?

[Rick Parker]

Try retorquing the head before you pull it off.

[RallySnake]

There is a product called Blue Devil Sealant. It is expensive ($60) and you have to follow instructions carefully. But, it will fix cooling leaks like this. I used a couple of bottles of anti-rust instead of anti-freeze and my engine developed a head gasket leak that seeped out under two head bolts. I had spent a month rebuilding this engine and did not want to take it apart again, so I tried 1/2 bottle if this stuff. It worked amazingly well. I was so happy not to fight those hard to reach head bolts again!

[philminotti]

I suspect that the leak is from the block to head coolant passage between #1 and #2 cylinders or #2 and #3. With the heads torqued to 95 ft-lbs, I can't imagine how this could be, especially with essentially no pressure in the system. The block and head preparation/porting was done by KCR, so I don't suspect overaggressive porting. Visual inspection prior to assembly didn't reveal anything obvious.

I guess I'll try retorquing the heads although i'm not optimistic...

phil

[vector1]

take each head bolt/stud loose in the sequence they are to be torqued, one at a time, and make sure it is all lubed up, and torque to full spec in one pull of the torque wrench (very important).

this is the proper way to tq. a bolt and has worked on a leaking head gasket for myself.

good luck.

[philminotti]

Here are a couple of pictures. I tried retorquing the heads. No luck.
Back to the drawing board...

[RodgerH]

Had the same problem on the first assembly of my engine (527" Shelby alum. block, Keith Craft Stage 3 ported Edelbrock alum. heads). Changed head gaskets....same problem. Finally milled the surface of the heads....only took a slight cut, maybe .010". Put it back together and all has been good. Apparently the heads were not absolutely flat from Edelbrock.

Rodger

[philminotti]

Originally Posted by RodgerH

Had the same problem on the first assembly of my engine (527" Shelby alum. block, Keith Craft Stage 3 ported Edelbrock alum. heads). Changed head gaskets....same problem. Finally milled the surface of the heads....only took a slight cut, maybe .010". Put it back together and all has been good. Apparently the heads were not absolutely flat from Edelbrock.

Rodger

Wow Rodger. That REALLY bums me out. So this will be the second time I've pulled my meticulously sealed intake and I haven't even started the @&#*ing thing yet.

phil

[vector1]

i've used mls gaskets on an all aluminum sbf and spray the gasket with a sealer before use and had no problems. might try it. be sure to tq. the bolts as described above, on the last sequence loosen and retorque in one motion. chrysler makes a spray specifically for this, and there are other sprays available, like copperkote that might work also.

[RodgerH]

My engine was first run on the dyno, so it was a little easier to access. Still a real aggravation. One would think new heads would have been flat. Good luck....

Rodger

[olddog]

When you get it apart, use a good straight edge and feeler gauges. Go over the suspected area real good. Also check the block. Look for cracks and pin holes too.

I would suspect something is not straight.

Good luck.

[RICK LAKE]

Philminotti Phil do you have both gaskets facing forward even though one is upside down??? Tork to spec, if it still leaks you are pulling the head. Are you using #1020 felpro gaskets?? I use them and High-tac the crap out of them and have not had a leak in 8 years of the 452 and 3 years on the 482. Straight edge the block and heads too start. Rick L. PS Phil that head should have been checked before the heads where box for shipping, hence the word machining. Since it's the right side of the motor, check the head gasket for being on right. There is a thread on this either here or on the FE forum to see if the gaskets are on right with the gasket sticking out a certain way on both sides. Maybe someone else here has that thread number. try this first.

[philminotti]

Hi Rick-

There are no silly questions... Anyway, the gaskets are installed correctly. Checked several times. And if they weren't, I don't think I'd be getting oil to the top end (which I am).

I thought most people installed felpro 1020's dry. I guess you don't. I'd be interested to hear other peoples' thoughts about that...

So that could be a problem. I also have to check the sleeve height on my block. The sleeves on a Pond block protrude several thou above the deck. (They're supposed to) Maybe I have a proud sleeve. I thought I checked prior to assy. Anyway, I did start the engine and it ran pretty well, other than leaking coolant like a sieve. No water in the cylinders or oil, luckily. No leaks of any fluid anywhere else, which was nice. I'll try to post some video of my motor runnning. Sounds pretty bada**

phil

[Ibr8k4vetts]

Originally Posted by RodgerH

Had the same problem on the first assembly of my engine (527" Shelby alum. block, Keith Craft Stage 3 ported Edelbrock alum. heads). Changed head gaskets....same problem. Finally milled the surface of the heads....only took a slight cut, maybe .010". Put it back together and all has been good. Apparently the heads were not absolutely flat from Edelbrock.

Rodger

I find it hard to believe Keith dose not mill the heads! when I recieved my Edelbrock's from summit the bottoms were very rough and had to milled.

[RICK LAKE]

If you think about it, KCR doesn't know what machine work is done on your block, how much is removed when squaring the block. He might think it is better to let the machine shop do the final flycuts because of angle issues. It does make sense. Same thing with the heads to a manifold that was machine for flat surface. Also the center of the block being too high and not getting the right clearance between block and heads and heads and intake. Gaskets can take up some room or clearance but have limits. Expect for cranks, all my parts are new from manufactor or machine shop done. Rick L

[Barry_R]

We "kiss" all our modified heads on the mill before shipping - but it's as much for cosmetics as anything. As they travel through the shop even a tiny piece of dirt or debris on a shelf will scratch the deck surface and we want them to look pretty when you open the box...

I normally install Fel-Pro 120s dry but have heard from some guys that prefer to use sealer on the aluminum block/head combinations.