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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2009, 12:27 PM
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Default 428CJ Cooling

Hello All,

After a long wait to pull the trigger, BDR789 is arriving in late January and I have decided to go with a 428CJ / TKO 600 combo. I have heard the 428's run a little hotter than the 390's, so my question is regarding ancillary equipment.

1) Do I need to run and oil cooler?
2) Is it wise to install 2 pusher fans?

I would rather do the work at the beginning that add it on later.

Thanks!!
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Old 12-18-2009, 12:49 PM
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HI BDR,

I don't know whether the 428 runs hotter than a 390/427 but, they are all FE engines and I would recommend both the oil cooler and a set of high CFM puller fans. The puller should be on a temp sensor in the radiator to kick them on when the temp reaches a preset temp. You may also want to install a cockpit switch that will allow you to kick the fans on manually. The preset temp for the puller shoild be above the temperature that the themostat opens, this will make sure that the engine warms, allows cold fluid to flow out of the radiator and kicks on to keep the radiator fluid at an even operating level.

The pusher fans tend to be more decoration that functional components,and can actually interfere with the flow of cooling air into the Radiator.

Tony R.

Last edited by Tony Ripepi; 12-18-2009 at 01:13 PM..
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Old 12-18-2009, 12:57 PM
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I find my pusher fans actually make a real difference. Depending on where you live, oil coolers can be a pain if you drive your car in the winter and its cold out (less than 40 degrees). At any sort of speed, the oil doesn't really get hot enough. I have mine blocked off with lexan right now, but that still doesn't quite do it. They make thermostats to cut off the oil cooler loop, which you might consider. I'd probably still go with an oil cooler though.
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Old 12-18-2009, 01:08 PM
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If the radiator and primary fan are adequate and the engine is not extreme, you can probably dispense with the pusher fans. You might at least hold off on buying and installing them until you have the car built and sorted out. (Make sure the wiring harness for them is in place during build; that will save a ton of effort later.)

If you follow all the rules about the radiator, thermostat (don't forget to drill bleed holes) etc. you will likely not have any cooling problems. And, of course, be sure the block is thoroughly boiled and cleaned before assembly... a deep blockage in the water jacket can cause lifetime problems.

The oil cooler is de rigueur for originality, but it can be a complete PITA any time you drive in cooler temps or for short drives. Mine has the remote oil filter and cooler, and I have yet to get the oil past 70* even on warmish days and long freeway drives. So my next project is to cut in a Canton oil thermostat - pics and details will be up when I'm finished. That will keep the cooler and at least one quart of oil out of the loop while it warms up and stays at 80* or higher, which is where the oil temp needs to reside for proper lubrication and boiling out water and other volatiles that don't belong there. I would have removed the cooler entirely if it didn't routinely exceed 100* here through the summer; I suspect I will need the cooling capacity for longer summer drives.
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Old 12-18-2009, 02:38 PM
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I have done several FE's in Backdraft's. I haven't seen any real problems. I would upgrade to the larger radiator and I would install a oil cooler with a thermostat. If you don't have one you are just pissing in the wind anyways. I have one in Midland TX and no issues so far.

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Old 12-18-2009, 04:39 PM
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I have decades of experience with virtually all FE size engines, in the same confines there shouldn't be any signicant temp difference. I can see how some of the 390 blocks that have been bored to a 428 bore might run a little hotter, but a factory block? I don't think it should.
You also have to keep in mind that HP=heat, so the more power that you want to get will create more heat to be dispersed.
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Old 12-18-2009, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunner View Post
The oil cooler is de rigueur for originality, but it can be a complete PITA any time you drive in cooler temps or for short drives. Mine has the remote oil filter and cooler, and I have yet to get the oil past 70* even on warmish days and long freeway drives. So my next project is to cut in a Canton oil thermostat - pics and details will be up when I'm finished. That will keep the cooler and at least one quart of oil out of the loop while it warms up and stays at 80* or higher, which is where the oil temp needs to reside for proper lubrication and boiling out water and other volatiles that don't belong there. I would have removed the cooler entirely if it didn't routinely exceed 100* here through the summer; I suspect I will need the cooling capacity for longer summer drives.
You might want to check out the bypass device that one of the board members used to offer. It allows you to divert various percentages of oil through the cooler. It allows full flow and (I believe) none, by the turn of a knob. Pretty slick and machined from solid billet. I am sure someone will know his name. I feel bad since I used to know him from SCOF,but I haven't been there for a while. I do know he helps with the London Cobra show and works in a machine shop ( may even own it), and makes some nice jack stands that can be packed flat...also billet.
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Old 12-18-2009, 04:49 PM
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If you do some searches on oil cooler thermostats I'm sure it will come up. There have been some posts with pretty slick set-ups.
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Old 12-18-2009, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodz428 View Post
You might want to check out the bypass device that one of the board members used to offer.
Thanks, I've been referred to it every time I make a post about the oil thermostat.

It's a pretty piece, but it's over twice the cost of the equally pretty Canton billet thermostat... and that for manual control when the Canton is completely automatic. I see no advantage to it at all, to be honest.

10/10 for execution, but 5/10 for practicality. Maybe it's more useful to the track guys who both fiddle with every setting possible all the time and love to do so.
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Old 12-19-2009, 04:13 PM
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Default Thanks Dudes

Thanks for the info, guys. I will most likely sort her out first and play it by ear to see what happens....just wanted to be sure that I was on the right track.

If you noticed, I came down with dyslexia yesterday and had my BDR# wrong, so my handle is now correct . I'll give you updates the progress and seek your wise counsel as things arise
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Old 12-19-2009, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by BDR879 View Post
If you noticed, I came down with dyslexia yesterday and had my BDR# wrong, so my handle is now correct . I'll give you updates the progress and seek your wise counsel as things arise
Did you notice it or did you get a call saying "Hey...That's MY car"?
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Old 12-19-2009, 07:48 PM
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Ha!

I realized it today. I wonder if that was the reason the cops came by my house and wanted to look in my garage

Can't wait till she arrives....should be up here the 3rd week of January.
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Old 12-19-2009, 08:03 PM
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Hello 879,
I know your feelings. I received mine July 9th of this year and have put 5300 miles since! But, you need to remember that cartoon with two vultures: Patience my a$$, I'm gonna kill something! Or something to that effect. 209
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Old 12-20-2009, 10:37 AM
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I'm are ok now since I haven't seen her in person, but when she gets up here, my patience will start wearing thin. I guarantee you I will be fit to be tied when I have to wade through the 2 months of red tape to get her registered. The plan is to have her road worthy and legal by May (at the latest).
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Old 12-22-2009, 04:59 AM
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BDR, I run a 428 and I live in Arizona where the oil will get hot if you don't have an oil cooler. I run a 4 core aluminum radiator, an oil cooler and a black magic puller fan. Engine temp runs right at 210 in the summer and 190 in the winter. Oil temp is within about 5 degrees of the water temp.
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