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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2010, 12:47 PM
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Default Pilot Bearing Removal?

Hi,

I just pulled out my gearbox (Toploader) followed by the clutch and flywheel trying to locate a leak that I suspected was coming from the rear crank seal. The good news is that there are no obvious signs of a leak from the crank.
The not so good news is that the pilot bearing is chewed up and pushed back into the crank. It looks as though the nose shaft on the gearbox didn't line up correctly with the hole the last time it was installed and instead, pushed the bearing back.
How do I remove the old bearing and are there any issues I need to be aware of when installing a new one?
As to the oil leak, it now looks as though it is coming from the input shaft on the gearbox.
Thank you.

Paul
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2010, 01:03 PM
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apparently they do sell pilot bearing removal tools. http://www.tooltopia.com/mountain-90...aign=nextag_r1

But I also read a thread here years ago that i thought was way cool:

You get a dowel that exactly fits inside the bearing, . . . . . fill the hole with grease and then pound the dowel in with a hammer. The hydrostatic pressure drives the bearing out from the inside. I never had a need to do it, but it sounds pretty cool!!!


.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2010, 01:12 PM
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The input shaft leak was probably due to the bad Pbearing. Replace the seal on the tranny just to be safe.

TO remove old Pilot bearing =
Fill the hole with wheel bearing grease, pack it in to fill all the area, you are going to smack the tool with a hammer so the grease that is displaced pushes the bearing out of the blind hole in the crank.
If you have an old input shaft it works best but a metal tool for aligning the clutch disc under the pressure plate also works well.
Start the tip of the input shaft into the hole/pilot bushing. Use a bigger hammer to shock or hydraulic the bearing out of the hole. If it does not come all the way out fill with grease and repeat.
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Old 02-07-2010, 01:20 PM
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Yep, what CobraEd said !!

BTW.... put your new bearing in the freezer for 1/2 hour or so to reduce the diameter a bit and make install a little easier.
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Old 02-07-2010, 01:30 PM
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Go to Autozone and rent a pilot bearing puller. Takes 30 seconds and no mess.
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Old 02-07-2010, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins View Post
Go to Autozone and rent a pilot bearing puller. Takes 30 seconds and no mess.
What, no grease ???? I bet you put a pan under the engine when you are draining the oil too ???


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Old 02-07-2010, 01:37 PM
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How'd you guess?
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Old 02-07-2010, 01:38 PM
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Check the bearing on the input shat as well.
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Old 02-07-2010, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CobraEd View Post
You get a dowel that exactly fits inside the bearing, . . . . . fill the hole with grease and then pound the dowel in with a hammer. The hydrostatic pressure drives the bearing out from the inside.
This has the air of one of those old shop pranks where all the oldsters stand around to watch the newbie get a faceful of grease.

That or the old "wax job" joke...
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Old 02-07-2010, 02:07 PM
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Thank you for the advice, I know this was the right place to pose the question.

The input shaft on the gearbox has a degree of lateral free play, I'm assuming that to be as it should. Can someone please confirm for me.

Thanks again.

Paul
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Old 02-07-2010, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FatBoy View Post
Thank you for the advice, I know this was the right place to pose the question.

The input shaft on the gearbox has a degree of lateral free play, I'm assuming that to be as it should. Can someone please confirm for me.

Thanks again.

Paul
I think that the input shaft on the transmission is steel. The pilot bearing is usually bronze, so if anything is going to wear out it is the bearing. After you replace it, make sure you put some good synthetic grease on it

Really, you do need to grease it.


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Old 02-07-2010, 02:20 PM
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Sorry, I didn't make myself too clear.

The lateral free play the I mentioned was when the gearbox was out of the car and free standing. The input shaft can be wobbled slightly.

Thank you.
Paul
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Old 02-07-2010, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CobraEd View Post
But I also read a thread here years ago that i thought was way cool:

You get a dowel that exactly fits inside the bearing, . . . . . fill the hole with grease and then pound the dowel in with a hammer. The hydrostatic pressure drives the bearing out from the inside. I never had a need to do it, but it sounds pretty cool!!!


.
I've been doing that way since the 60s and it has never failed. It's a little messy, but when you are doing that kind of work what isn't.
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Old 02-07-2010, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CobraEd View Post
I think that the input shaft on the transmission is steel. The pilot bearing is usually bronze, so if anything is going to wear out it is the bearing. After you replace it, make sure you put some good synthetic grease on it

Really, you do need to grease it.


.
There is also a roller bearing option, I can't verify if they have a longer life or not, but it is an option.
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:28 PM
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I've been doing that way since the 60s and it has never failed. It's a little messy, but when you are doing that kind of work what isn't.
Wet toilet paper works just as well as the grease and is much easier to clean up.
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:36 PM
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I have and do use the grease method.Allways seems to bring that bearing out straight.
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:44 PM
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just don't get any on your finger
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Old 02-07-2010, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
Wet toilet paper works just as well as the grease and is much easier to clean up.
You know, the more times I read this sentence, the more I wonder about Patrick...

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Old 02-08-2010, 02:43 AM
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Quote:
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Wet toilet paper works just as well as the grease and is much easier to clean up.
It may work, but who wants to go fishing that junk out of the toilet?
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:45 AM
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That's recycling at the extreme---maybe you can get a tax credit--save the tree the dowel would have been made from---wait---tp comes from trees too--oh well
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