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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2010, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins View Post
I'll do a group discount.....
What does that come to in American $$?
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2010, 01:34 PM
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If I can get 3 orders at once, I'll do a group buy since I know this is a pretty high dollar item. R/K and Russ, I'll knock another $25 off the price that I quoted you. If a third wheel wants in, PM me for a price.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2010, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas View Post
They don't list aftermarket head fitment but they will fit factory heads. You have to specify which 'rise' head to get the correct stands which are included in this kit.
I have them on my MR heads (with the H/S stands).
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2010, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodKnock View Post
So your mechanic's rate is $5.00/hour.
With the rate his car has been breaking down lately, he couldn't afford his own rate if it was much more than that...
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2010, 01:41 PM
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With the rate his car has been breaking down lately, he couldn't afford his own rate if it was much more than that...
Uhhh, fixing these cars is just as much fun as driving them.
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2010, 02:32 PM
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Continuing with the mental machinations, what information would I need to give in order to get the right T&D kit for my Edelbrock heads? I know they make a kit for the SOHC heads, which is something I can figure out all by myself. But I know there's something that I'll need to know about my heads which I bet will require me to remove the engine from the car in order to give you and order the proper kit.

Last edited by RodKnock; 07-01-2010 at 07:39 PM..
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2010, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by dcdoug View Post
With the rate his car has been breaking down lately, he couldn't afford his own rate if it was much more than that...
Actually he has two mechanic's rates. One for installing the roof foam insulation and duct tape around the roll bars and then there's the rate for everything else.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2010, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
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I have them on my MR heads (with the H/S stands).
Yes I did too but with FPP stands and spacers and Dove HD shafts.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2010, 07:23 PM
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Knock,

If you told me that you have the Ebrocks, that's enough info.
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2010, 08:52 PM
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Harland Sharp
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2010, 11:43 PM
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I went with Shelby shafts and rockers.adjustment on the rockers is much more accurate than the dove units that they replaced.A bit pricey at $1200 a set but I do not regret my purchase.They also seem to hold there adjustment longer.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2010, 02:11 AM
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Looks like oldschol has been held after class, he's vanished! Maybe he will be back.

Quote:
Originally Posted by undy View Post
It depends on the heads and a few other things. Tell us a bit more about your engine.

I'm running the Ersons, a real good plug 'n play choice for Edelbrock heads.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2010, 04:22 AM
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Default Change the oil way to the heads

RodKnock Nobody has said that there is a different oil system to the rockers with Jesel or T&D. I have a setup of EDEL heads and T&D setup. The oiling goes through the pushrods. You will need new pushrods, lifters and maybe a camshaft. You may want to look at the new vary size pushrods that are 5/16" ends and 3/8- 7/16" in the middle. They are stiffer and have less flex when running. Alot depends on camshaft lift, design and valve spring rates.
IMO if you are running a HVHP oil pump with an 80# and have 30-40 psi at idle, H&S will work fine if the clearance between shaft and rocker body is tight. If it is loose, it will work ok at high oil pressures with the motor runningat 2,000 rpms. If you are going to idle it and the pressures down down to the 20's, IMO this is not enough to flood the rockers and cause a wearing condition, Not enough oil to the Erson setup will cause damage too. Blueing of the roller tip and bearings. I know of 2 erson failures. Both from oiling. Limiters too small for the heads. Under .060" with high lift camshafts and idling. The other thing is the machine work for the plates with T&D. You need a good machinist to make sure that the surfaces are flat and level. Rick L.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2010, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RICK LAKE View Post
RodKnock Nobody has said that there is a different oil system to the rockers with Jesel or T&D. I have a setup of EDEL heads and T&D setup. The oiling goes through the pushrods. You will need new pushrods, lifters and maybe a camshaft. Rick L.
Thank you for the info Rick. When Barry R said the Ersons were being discontinued I was contemplating buying an extra set to put on the shelf as a "just in case." Especially, since they're bolt-on. I know the T&D's are better and may upgrade to them in the future, but now I know that I may need more than just new pushrods. I wasn't planning on a new cam and lifters. Definitely more food for thought.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2010, 10:11 AM
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Rod, you don't need to buy anything. Your Ersons aren't going to fail unless the builder restricted them up top to a number way below .060 and you run them hard, hard, hard... neither of which is going to happen. Save your money -- if you buy a replacement set of Ersons they're just going to sit on the shelf in your basement.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2010, 10:50 AM
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Rod, you don't need to buy anything. Your Ersons aren't going to fail unless the builder restricted them up top to a number way below .060 and you run them hard, hard, hard... neither of which is going to happen. Save your money -- if you buy a replacement set of Ersons they're just going to sit on the shelf in your basement.
Yes, I understand. But with my luck, I'll need a set someday and everyone will be fresh out of every alternative. When my engine was built about 2 years ago. I had to wait several weeks while the Ersons were on back order. So they haven't been so plentiful.

My Cammer is going to require the T&D's (although different) anyway.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2010, 11:15 AM
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I run Ersons on my 428...over 7,000 miles on them now with no problems.

tom
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2010, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodKnock View Post
When my engine was built about 2 years ago
If your engine is now two years old, your money is better spent changing out your coolant. You probably have the tried and true classic "green coolant" in there and, after two years, the corrosion inhibitors that are protecting all that beautiful aluminum have just about given out. Hey, that gives me a great idea for a separate thread challenging the math skills of that old curmudgeon ERAChas on how to figure out an EZ coolant change out procedure for you. I'll post that now, in fact.

EDIT -- and here that thread is: ERAChas - A Simple Coolant Math Problem

Last edited by patrickt; 07-02-2010 at 01:56 PM..
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2010, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
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...old curmudgeon ERAChas on how...
Couldn't you write YOUNG curmudgeon???
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 07-03-2010, 04:53 AM
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Default He's like a squirrel with a nut

Era Chas I think that Pat needs to recheck the bottles. Green coolant is good for 36 months or 50k miles. The orange coolant is good for 5 years or now 120,000 miles. A test strip will tell you if it is time. Also how hot and hard the motor is run. Me I run the green coolant 5 years and add the booster at 3 years. With new motor and bigger radiator have gone to orange coolant because of the added sealing of the mixture with so much silicone. Going on 4 years and still good for -30f. This is for storage and around the area with short hops. At the track I use water wetter and distilled water. Tracks can fine you and remove you from them if a large spill happens with antifreeze. Rick L.

Last edited by RICK LAKE; 07-05-2010 at 04:08 AM..
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