Tired and frustrated with the glycol in oil leak..

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by undy

In all seriousness I'm going to test each side to 20-30 psi and let it sit, then watch my pressure gauge and wait. Perfectly sealed the head/block should hold pressure for some time, without dropping pressure.

That's what I thought. How are you going to ensure that you don't have a small leak somewhere on your apparatus that fools you in to believing you have a block leak when really you don't? Won't you have to at least spray down some parts of your connections in order to rule out a poor test procedure?

[Ronbo]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Unlike Professor Ron, you can provide some factual GM information. I must be reading-challenged-I still can't find where his point was on a GM- supported product that they won't use in production.

The 289 was a steam hole-dependent design too. Yes the LS' also because of the partitioning in the jackets around the bores. That problem was solved by World's Warhawk LS blocks which surrounded all four of the siamesed bores with water.

It didn't happen because the whole thing got held up in a law suit. Since GM couldn't use the waterless (wouldn't pay the royalties) so the engine project got killed. (this was a normaly-asperated 630hp engine) Years later we have the 6.2L producing what the 5.7 did (well, could) back then.

I think Ford called them "steam vents" so, I'm not sure who copied who. You should see some of the stuff airplane engines had to come up with. Problem gets worse with higher elevation. (why four-wheeler's are all over this stuff)

[undy]

Originally Posted by patrickt

That's what I thought. How are you going to ensure that you don't have a small leak somewhere on your apparatus that fools you in to believing you have a block leak when really you don't? Won't you have to at least spray down some parts of your connections in order to rule out a poor test procedure?

The test apparatus and all connections will be entirely visible and subject to viual scrutiny with the soap suds. I pressure test refrigerant systems in a similar fashion.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by Ronbo

It didn't happen because the whole thing got held up in a law suit. Since GM couldn't use the waterless (wouldn't pay the royalties) so the engine project got killed. (this was a normaly-asperated 630hp engine) Years later we have the 6.2L producing what the 5.7 did (well, could) back then.

Thank you.

[Excaliber]

Eh eh, told you it was the dollars. Man that stuff is EXPENSIVE!!! Heckuva price to pay to see how it works.

...oh well, cheaper than buying a Kirkham to see how that works.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Excaliber

Eh eh, told you it was the dollars. Man that stuff is EXPENSIVE!!! Heckuva price to pay to see how it works.

...oh well, cheaper than buying a Kirkham to see how that works.

Ernie, if you're really going to use it, you've GOT TO read the instructions. Here they are: http://www.hrpworld.com/client_image...ader/683_4.pdf Pay attention to the purging, the cap, the plugging of the weep hole, etc. There's more work to this conversion than just an afternoon's "flush 'n fill."

[Jerry Clayton]

Ernie---if is not broke don't fix it

[Excaliber]

Good link to the instructions Pat. I think this subject deserves it's own thread in case someone does a "search" for Evan's Coolant in the future, so,,,, stand by and look for it!

I'm running a pure water/water wetter system so flushing any existing antifreeze for me is not a problem.

New Thread is up:

Evans WATERLESS Coolant

[Ronbo]

The big thing is getting the old ethylene glycol out of your system, trace amounts of water will boil out over time.

I don't know that you have to plug your weep hole, but I'd do that anyway in the case of the Cobra. (no matter what coolant I was running)

The cap mod is easy, snap the back flow button off the bottom, you now have a zero psi cap.

Amsoil also makes a poly propylene glycol based coolant (as well as most "safe" coolants) that's about the same $.

BTW there's also a track safe version of the Evens, but it has to be replaced every couple years.

[Excaliber]

Say, Undy, didn't mean to steal the thunder from your thread with the Evan's thing. Do keep us updated on where the leak is/was.

...of course, if you'd been running Evans at low to zero pressure one could theorize you would have never known there was a problem because the coolant may have never leaked in the first place!

Is that a reasonable theory? That with low or zero pressure there would be no leak into the valve cover area?

[undy]

Originally Posted by Excaliber

Say, Undy, didn't mean to steal the thunder from your thread with the Evan's thing. Do keep us updated on where the leak is/was.

...of course, if you'd been running Evans at low to zero pressure one could theorize you would have never known there was a problem because the coolant may have never leaked in the first place!

Is that a reasonable theory? That with low or zero pressure there would be no leak into the valve cover area?

No stolen thunder here...

It's actually pertinent to my problem. If it wasn't for the poorer heat rejection factor of the Evans I'd consider using it. I'd actually looked in to it a couple years ago. I tend to remember making a post or 2 about it here but there was little if any interest at the time. I worked v-e-r-y hard to get my cooling system up to a required capacity to keep my engine cool. I honestly feel the Evans stuff would negate all my efforts in one fell swoop.

It's not only about keeping your mess from boiling over, bursting hoses and blowing by gaskets. It's about maintaining the actual engine at a certain temp. That's required for oil temps, efficient combustion and the "right" amount of engine expansion.

While I'm on the subject of engine expansion... With an all alloy engine, proper expansion (engine temperature) is much more critical then the equivalent all iron motor. I talked to Robert Pond recently and he said his greatest terror with his aluminum block is overheating. You run the chance of gauling cylinder walls, poor piston sealing, warpage and failed gaskets. If the Evans stuff causes my alloy motor to run warmer (210+ degerees) then that alone would be a deal breaker. Before I got my engine temps under proper control I'd noticed that as my engine temps climbed above a "desired" temp my "blow-by" actually INCREASED. This was determined by removing one of my valve cover breathers and visually checking the amount of combustion gasses (vapor/smoke) exiting the valve cover. When engine temps were "normal" there were no gasses that I could detect. Once temps started to climb above my perceived "norm" the visual vapors dramatically increased. Once temps returned to normal it stopped pumping the vapors...

Soooo.... that being said, it's water, water wetter and a taddly amount or aunti-freeze for me.

[undy]

Well...... Two 105 degree days with 80% relative humidity kept my robust arse out of the super-heated garage for the weekend. The only pressure testing that went on was blood pressure testing. I did manage to get all my materials together and fine tune the game plan. That pretty much was the extent of it. It looks like it's "to be continued" next weekend, assuming a bit more wrench friendly temps...

I did an air handler change-out in an 168 degree attic Saturday (5 hours worth) and that about did me in for the weekend.... whew

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by undy

I did an air handler change-out in an 168 degree attic Saturday (5 hours worth) and that about did me in for the weekend.... whew

You could always add AC to the garage.......

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by dcdoug

You could always add AC to the garage.......

I am reminded of the proverb of the shoemaker's children....

[Outwest34au]

Originally Posted by patrickt

I am reminded of the proverb of the shoemaker's children....

What can one say, ya had that coming..

[undy]

Originally Posted by dcdoug

You could always add AC to the garage.......

After this weekend a little 2 ton split system heat pump might be in order... It would be around $1500 in materials ... labor's free

[Z-linkCobra]

Originally Posted by undy

Well...... Two 105 degree days with 80% relative humidity kept my robust arse out of the super-heated garage for the weekend. The only pressure testing that went on was blood pressure testing. I did manage to get all my materials together and fine tune the game plan. That pretty much was the extent of it. It looks like it's "to be continued" next weekend, assuming a bit more wrench friendly temps...

I did an air handler change-out in an 168 degree attic Saturday (5 hours worth) and that about did me in for the weekend.... whew

I hated attic jobs. Im not sure what was worse...the heat or the insulation. You can come down out of the attic and cool off...you have to wear the insulation off. That generaly takes about 2 days...lol.

I feel your pain man.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by undy

After this weekend a little 2 ton split system heat pump might be in order... It would be around $1500 in materials ... labor's free

Or just a cheap wall unit or floor standing unit, depending on how big your garage is. Well worth it IMHO.

[mrmax]

mini split putting one in, impossible to work without a/c in tucson this time of year

[patrickt]

Undy, did you get any work done today on your engine or did you just goof off?