Oil pan with stroker kit question

[RestoCreations]

Im planning on building a 427fe-511 stroker. Is there a specific oil pan that i need to use for clearance, or will any 427fe pan work?
I see the Armondo pan that kirkham and KC use is 520.00 big ones. However, if most feel this pan is worth the money and provides the best oiling for the engine, then i do not have a problem with the price tag.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks

[blykins]

You shouldn't have any trouble with any oil pan.

However, if you're planning to run main studs and a windage tray, you will have to do a little clearance work.

The Armando pan is nice as it's period-looking....however the Canton pans and some of the others work just fine.

[RestoCreations]

Is a windage tray really necessary? This car, while in my possession, will only see street use.

[blykins]

No, it's not.

[kgs365]

great question...i always wondered but never wanted to ask...thanks!

[eschaider]

Originally Posted by RestoCreations

Is a windage tray really necessary? This car, while in my possession, will only see street use.

Yes it is.

The windage tray helps to de-aerate the oil in the pan so the pickup has less of a chance to draw a foamy slug of oil up and push it out to your rods and mains.

When the engine is running you have about one to one and a half quarts of oil "wetting" the various internal parts of the engine. You could have another quart waiting in various places to return to the pan and don't forget the hurricane of oil being whipped up in the space of the crankcase as the rods discharge their oil from the side clearance you provided when you built the engine.

This stuff eventually comes to rest in the oil pan as an aerated oil foam. The windage tray helps protect it from getting whipped up one more time by the crank and rods. This relatively peaceful stay in the oil pan gives the air bubbles time to dissipate before the pump sends the oil out to work again.

Ed

[blykins]

Nice to have, but no, not at all necessary.....

As for oil pans, I like the Canton and Milodon road race pans for Cobras....the ones with the trap doors in the sump.

[lemans24]

I have Armandos pan on my FE. Very well made.

[Barry_R]

Pretty much all of the oil pans will clear the stroker cranks with no problem. Windage trays are a nice deal for splash control under acceleration, but do not add any power - at least on the dyno. I generally install them in customer engines as a form of insurance.

The Canton try will clear the strokers, the Ford tray might need some gentle tweaking, the old Moroso tray hits everything but has been redesigned and might be OK now. The Milodon tray will hit the box it's shipped in unless trimmed a bunch - they are aware and should be making changes.

Most tray need clearancing around the various oil pump pickups and many need to have dipstick clearance added as well - check BEFORE intalling the pan....I've seen dipsticks curl up against the tray and hit the crank.

I prefer the Moroso pans for insexpensive T types - The color is easier on the eyes, and both the fit and welding seems better than the Canton stuff. The Aviad is very correct and a nice piece as well.

[Ralphy]

If I'm not mistaken, at Summit's site. Check that, a Summit's site they are rated for stoker clearance. Not trying to plug anybody, just remembered from searching.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-15-810/

I'm also sure Barry and Brent know from experience!

[Barry_R]

Bad data in the Summit ad.

Maximum stroke with OE rod is stated at 4.125. Ever see an FE OE rod in a 4.125 stroked engine? Me neither. Maybe some guys were doing it back in the 60s but not anymore. All of the common strokers use a BBC rod and that pan will clear a 4.25 stroke without a problem... The pan companies all use a factory clone steel oil pan and then cut it to fit the sump chosen.

[RestoCreations]

Thanks for the replies. I have the 511 stroker kit or 4.36 or .37??? stroke crankshaft-i dont have the data written down in front of me right now, so please feel free to correct.

Anyway, for 75.00 more, i might as well add a windage tray. I thought they were more expensive.

While i am at it.

Oil pump recommendations
I dont want to bring up the age old debate of standard vs high volume, but i am going to do it anyway. High volume pump or standard?

Actually, i am looking on summit now and i only see one which is a standard volume pump
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-M57HP/

Thanks and please excuse my ignorance, this is my first FE motor.

[blykins]

I'd use the high volume pump. M-57HV

Also, with the windage tray, make sure you check that it doesn't interfere with the drain hole in the rear cap.

[elmariachi]

The Armando pan (and assumedly the Aviaid as his is directly copied from it) requires the windage tray because the lower end of the oil pickup bolts to the tray for stability.

As Brent said, regardless of what you do, unless you want to modify the pan you need to machine the rear main cap to get the studs or bolts recessed further down in the body of the cap or you will have clearance issues. Ask me how I know....

I run Precision Pumps' blueprinted MV-57HV. I get 25-30psi at idle and 55-60 down the road. I think you want high flow in your pump more than high pressure. Good pressure comes from proper clearances in your build.

[RestoCreations]

Revised. Not an appropriate response.

[blykins]

You can call me....I take credit cards....

[lemans24]

I got great service from Armando. Very high quality.

Dos cervezas por favor...

[elmariachi]

Armando is a first class dude. He had to rework my pan twice to manage clearance and never blinked an eye. He worked for Aviaid for a number of years and then went on his own. Elizabeth answers the phone, the Ninos chatter in the background, but Armando makes the pans and stands behind them. He only builds to order and doesn't take credit cards and his pans are less expensive as a result.

[RestoCreations]

Why did he have to rework the pan twice? What size stroker kit did you use? Do you think he has the details and dimensions revised and will be able to make a pan correct the first time now?

Thanks

[elmariachi]

I didn't use a stroker kit, that's not why it had to be reworked. I failed to tell my builder I was using an Armando/Aviaid type pan. He used ARP bolts on my mains and unlike the OEM bolt heads the ARP heads protrude above the surface of the rear cap, and the pan hit them. So first pass was to weld in some clearance on the rear rail. I finally replaced the bolts and decided while I had it apart to have him return the pan to normal.