Which motor oil are you using?

[garry viohl]

Brand?
Weight?
conventional or synthetic?
Why did you choose this?
Has anyone had an engine failure due to oil?

[fordracing65]

Schaeffer oil, synthetic, 5w 50, it has dominated racing for years also used in tractors which i believe are the workhorses of engines.

[RICK LAKE]

garry viohl Gary I do 98% track racing and autocross. I use 15W-40 blue bottle of diesel oil in the motor with 1 bottle of lucas oil suppliment and 1 bottle of EOS from GM. Oil pressure cold, 138. hot and racing 35 at idle and 75-80 at speed. HVHP oil pump with a 100# spring in the pump.
record for motor 452 no failures of block, 2 broken rocker shafts in 8 years.
record on motor 482, same block justed stroked 7 years no failures. I run the whole season with it and change at the end of the year about 20 runs on the road course and about 30 runs on the autocross. Also running a 3 quart accusump for insurance on high "G" turns to keep good oil pressure in the motor. Also works as a pre luber before starting the motor. 30 psi and fire it up, no dry starts.
If you are mostly going for street driving and cruising, you don't need this overkill I have done.
A good 10-30 or 10-40 oil will work fine. Over fill the motor 1 quart, if it's and FE motor. They have slow returns from the heads to the oil pan. If not done add oil limiters to both heads with a min of .080" - .100" in size. This will still give the top end plenty of oil and keep more pressure and amount in the bottom end. Warming up the motor BEFORE flying down the road is the most important thing. Same thing for getting home, let motor idle for 15 seconds at 1,100 rpms before shut down, this gives good oil spray, splash to all the internals of the motor. I do and use lucas oil suppliments in all my cars and trucks, its a clinging oil for startups. I have had no motor failures to date with some having over 100K. I change oil once a year or when the oil pressure drops a little on the track. I can't see using synthetic because of the $3.00 per quart more.
I think you will find that most engine failures are due to abuse like , hitting rev limiters, over revving motors, missed shifts, poor maintainance, not having a motor built for what you intend to do with the car. A street motor going to spend 80% of it's time on the track, bad idea. Motor is only as good as the machinist who assemblied it, the mechanic who works on it, the driver who doesn't OVER abuse it. Oil is the life of the motor, as long as you have a min of 30 psi a FE motor will run fine. IMO I don't beleive that an FE motor at idle with less that 30 psi is safe because of the oil pressure loss in the bottom end of the motor. This doesn't apply to the SO motor but still not safe with 10-15 psi readings and I have seen them. I have also seen the same motors window the blocks at the next race, again about abuse too. Rick L.

[601HP]

Shell Rotella T, 15w-40.

[Bob In Ct]

Redline 5W-30, a true synthetic with higher levels of ZDDP and Moly.

Bob

[ERA Chas]

Search.
There are 100's of threads on this tired topic.
Don't start this again.

[DougD]

Valvoline 30wt dino racing oil. Because George Anderson said so. Not sure what I'll do once it's broken-in. Probably add a zinc fortifier to whatever I decide to use.

I have had good luck with synthetics in the past. Several cars have approached 200,000 mi without even taking a valve cover off.

[vector1]

not an fe, but mobil 1 delvac 15w40 conventional made for diesel engine oil.

[redmt]

Originally Posted by 601HP

Shell Rotella T, 15w-40.

X2

I go through about 100-150 gallons a year. 5 different pieces of heavy equipment, 1 Ford Exploder and 1 7.3 powerstroke. I've been using it for over 25 years without a single oil related problem. No additives, nothing special.

[redmt]

Originally Posted by vector1

not an fe, but mobil 1 delvac 15w40 conventional made for diesel engine oil.

I tried this a couple years ago when Rotella prices jumped. Worst oil I've ever seen for consumption. I never have to add oil between changes. That stuff seemed to just evaporate. I had the same issues with Cat DEO oil.

[DonC]

Joe Lapine at Danbury Competition Engines built the 428 for my ERA and recommended Valvoline 10W40 when he built it.
I was recently speaking to him about another subject and he changed his recommendation to Honda GL4 motorcycle oil. Says it's the real stuff.
Changed over to the Honda oil on the last change but don't have any miles on it yet to give a pro or con. I'll see as I go along but Joe seems to have all of his stuff in one bag and has been building engines for a long time so I'm reasonable confident.
Put over 40K on the Valvoline with the oil and filter changed every 3000 miles and haven't encountered any failures or problems.
DonC

[saltshaker]

Valoline VR1 20-50w....and comp break in additive

[Slither]

Brad Penn Oil, 20-50 Racing oil. I use it for the zinc content.

[undy]

Mobil 1, 15w 50...

I don't need no stinkin' PTFE

[JBCOBRA]

VR1 20-50 = Happy Engine for me

[CBattaglia]

Originally Posted by Slither

Brad Penn Oil, 20-50 Racing oil. I use it for the zinc content.

Is the Zinc necessary with the newer engine components?

[acmjg]

VR-1 20/50 for me too.

[Slither]

Originally Posted by CBattaglia

Is the Zinc necessary with the newer engine components?

Of course!

[undy]

Zinc's only worth a hoot for flat-tappet cam applications. It's wasted dinero for roller (hydraulic and solid) cams.

[Slither]

I would rather have zinc in my oil than not. But yes, I am running a flat-tappet cam!