Valve springs

[marco454v8]

Hi Guys,
I'm looking for some confirmation, I know I've got a Chevy engine, but the question is universal for any engine, and I couldn't see where else to post (except as a discussion item on the dark side members group)
I built my engine using a comp cams 292H camshaft kit. I fitted edelbrock performer RPM complete heads (60459) should I have fitted the comp cam valve springs, or will the Edelbrock ones be O.K?
Thanks, Mark

[Gaz64]

I would use the valve spring as recommended by the cam grinder, not the head manufacturer.

Of course, if the Edelbrock springs match the specs required for the camshaft , they should be fine.

Your cam is a mild hydraulic, and so won't be too aggressive on the valvetrain.

[blykins]

I'd say they'll be fine but keep in mind that stock Edelbrock stuff comes with 7° retainers and locks.

As long as you have adequate spring pressures and checked for coil bind clearance you should be ok.

[Keithc8]

You might want to check them because some of the Edelbrock heads come with pretty good spring pressures and you would not want to knock a lobe of the camshaft. If it is a new camshaft make sure you use a special break in oil or you will have problems.

Good luck, Keith

[marco454v8]

Hi Keith,
from what information I can find, the edelbrocks have 100lbs seat pressure, and measure 1.44" OD, whereas the Comp Cams have 112lbs and 1.509" OD.
So, if anything the springs I am using are softer than spec.
I have the 10° comp cams retainers and locks, so I could change after my initial 500miles when I re-torque the heads, what do you think?
I used elf 5W30 synthetic as break in oil.
Mark

[Barry_R]

Springs are dimensional items. They neither know nor care whose name is on the package or what engine they are on. None of the popular brands make their own springs - they purchase them from one or two large spring companies - Peterson or Associated in most cases.

The pressures you quoted would be fine. But normally I avoid synthetics during break-in. No experience with Elf stuff over here though...

[blykins]

If you don't have an on-the-head spring compressor and a way to keep the valves shut, it won't be a fun job to change retainers and locks. You may want to look into a spring compressor that uses a rocker stud as a pivot point. You will also need a way to keep the valve from sliding down while you're trying to assemble.

I would agree that the springs that come with the heads are softer than spec. I don't like 100 lbs of seat pressure on anything with a hydraulic cam. I'd rather see something with 130-140 lbs seat. Remember, springs will lose some of their pressure after some heat cycles and I know that a lot of guys really like to spin their engines up on occasion. Valve float is not a good thing.

As for the synthetic oil as a break-in, I hope you haven't done any damage to the cam/lifters. If you didn't use any additive or a break-in oil like Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs, you have really threaded the needle if the break-in has went well. I would be checking the oil and filter for metal.

As for synthetic, never, ever use synthetic oil as a break-in oil. Not only is there no protection for the cam and lifters, chances are it will not let the rings seat either. I never recommend synthetic oil for any of my engines, even after long-term use, and I definitely wouldn't recommend it as an oil to use right after a rebuild/assembly.

Hopefully the low spring pressures that you have helped on the cam break-in. I would change the oil ASAP to a non-synthetic oil.

[Gaz64]

Another vote for not using synthetic oil in a new engine.

You must use a good quality mineral oil with a high ZDDP level, otherwise it's goodbye camshaft.

[marco454v8]

Originally Posted by Gaz64

Another vote for not using synthetic oil in a new engine.

You must use a good quality mineral oil with a high ZDDP level, otherwise it's goodbye camshaft.

The Elf oil over here is pretty good-approx. 1200ppm
Immediately after break in, I changed to Valvoline VR1 20/50
Mark