Opinion solicitation WRT EFI vs. carb

[Foghorn]

Fellas,

Now that I have the engine torn down to a long block, I have removed any incentive to leave well enough alone and make changes to the engine - that being it was running great so why fix what isn't broken!

My current configuration is a BT high rise dual plane intake with a Quickfuel SS780 vacuum secondary carb. KC E'bock stage 1 heads, hyd roller cam (I don't have the cam card in front of me), 10:1 compression. It made 600 & 625Q on Keith's dyno. I doubt I have it tuned as well in the car as he did on the dyno, so I am sure that I am leaving power on the table somewhere.
At the time of engine purchase, I had the intake and a few other parts left over from another aborted project which influenced their use.

I am considering switching to the E'bock Pro Flo 2 with 44 lb/hr injectors.

Please advise, especially those with practical experience with the PF2.

[Mark Thompson]

Foghorn

I can't help you with your question, but I am just before you in the sequence at KMP 625 and am curious about what made you tear your engine down. I am at 820 miles and clearly still breaking in.

Mark

[blykins]

What size engine is it?

[RICK LAKE]

Foghorn if you don't have alot of time already with an fi system, I will tell you to pass on this. Reasons Why---
1 Not sure what you want out of the car but FI is not going to give you more power. You have a good carb on your 482.
2 If you want to switch to an FI system heres a couple of things you will need to do electric fuel pump in the fuel tank or a very low bung in the side of the fuel tank for a fuel pump. Quessing on needing 45 psi of pressure for the injectors, fuel lines may need to be changed, if notthing else to a larger line of 1/2". IMO 3/8" is too small for 44 pound injectors at full song.
3 You have only stage 1 KCR heads. THis is great for a street motor. if you are looking for more power, need stage 3. Intake manifold needs to be flowed and port matched to the heads. Different intake manifold like a single plane. 1,200 cfm min flow throttlebody. 1,400-1,600 cfm would be better but need to slow down the ratio between your foot and the throttle body linkage.
4 EXHAUST, if you are running side pipes are they a street or track setup? Street are quieter and cost about 20-40 HP alone. Track pipes make you deaf in the left ear plus the cops love you and your money.
5 This is a basic system. It will fine tune itself AFTER you setup the computor with all the info you need to just get it started. The tune will be soft and on the rich side.
Need to drill a hole in one of the side pipes for the O2 sensor if it's a closed loop system.
Sounds like you motor is a nice small hydro roller motor. Leave it alone unless you REALLY want to get serious with an FI system. This would be a F.A.S.T. with a TWM set of throttlebodys in a 58mm size for a motor this big. You will get all the atension you want when you pop the hood. You are also looking at about 8G for this setup and about 3-4 hours for a complete dyno tuneup. Power wise you will be a little scared of the car to start with. Not much is going to pass you on the street either.
I always think it is better to leave what you have alone and just enjoy it. The HP sickness is just that, SICK. Rick L.