torque spec intake manifold

[otto]

Hi, i have the spec for a factory cast iron intake but not for an aluminum fe intake can someone provide the spec.
thanks inadvance Bob

[undy]

30-35 lbft

[patrickt]

... and you gotta use a crowfoot on a couple of the bolts. That has the potential to throw your torque readings off so take a moment and Google the subject.

[undy]

Originally Posted by patrickt

... and you gotta use a crowfoot on a couple of the bolts.

Nuts in my case, I made custom intake studs. They clamp so much better than bolts, especially in aluminum heads!

BTW... a calibrated wrist works too, no crow's foot required

[redmt]

One other thing to keep in mind with the FE intake, especially aluminum, is to take it down in very small incremental steps. Then run the sequence at least 2-3 times after there is no movement. I usually do a wrist tighten before ever hitting it with the torque wrench and then start at about 15 lbs and work my way up slowly.

[Barry_R]

I start with a calibrated wrist tighten, and finish with a wrist tighten. Then I follow up with a wrist tighten after the engine has warmed up.

[redmt]

Originally Posted by Barry_R

I start with a calibrated wrist tighten, and finish with a wrist tighten. Then I follow up with a wrist tighten after the engine has warmed up.

Yes but don't forget to use the left hand side of the wrench when tightening the bolts on the right hand side of the manifold! Some guys can do equal torque by hand , most can't. Keeps Snap-On in business

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by redmt

Some guys can do equal torque by hand , most can't.

I use torque wrenches on just about everything. In fact, I used them on my cuff links just this morning....

[redmt]

Originally Posted by patrickt

I use torque wrenches on just about everything. In fact, I used them on my cuff links just this morning....

I always like to make sure my nuts are tightened equally.

[mickmate]

I do them till my elbow clicks!

[redmt]

This one is sliding down the hill fast.

[mickmate]

Actually to get it back on track for me and Bob, what intake manifolds do you guys prefer and does everyone use silicon on the front and back or do some still stick with cork? I'm looking at one right now that looks like it's had the old school treatment of silver paint on it.

[redmt]

Originally Posted by mickmate

Actually to get it back on track for me and Bob, what intake manifolds do you guys prefer and does everyone use silicon on the front and back or do some still stick with cork? I'm looking at one right now that looks like it's had the old school treatment of silver paint on it.

I never like to use silicon. Sealant of choice has always been aviation Permatex or Cat has both a hardening and non-hardening sealant that is the best I have found. Use one of the non-hardening sealants with the cork I can get you part#'s tomorrow.

[mickmate]

I'd be interested in what you come up with. Thanks.

[redmt]

Originally Posted by mickmate

I'd be interested in what you come up with. Thanks.

I'll call you tomorrow with the #'s. I have a couple questions about some other stuff
John

[rodneym]

Originally Posted by Barry_R

I start with a calibrated wrist tighten, and finish with a wrist tighten. Then I follow up with a wrist tighten after the engine has warmed up.

I love it. Us noobs worry about the numbers and the gurus go by feel.

Patrick, you weren't kidding about the cufflinks, were you?

[redmt]

One thing to keep in mind is that torque is usually dictated by bolt size rather than application. For proper tightness , a bolt attains a certain amount of stretch that equals downward pressure. Gasket applications rely on crush so usually a firm hand tight is good enough as long as it is even. In other words with an intake or a pan gasket etc. your not worried about it falling off but holding it securely in place for gasket seal. Rods , mains and such rely on absolute lack of movement, so the higher torque values and increased bolt sizes.

We did a "hand tight" measurement once and I seem to remember that about 50 lbs was about all you could get with a standard beam 9/16 combo wrench.