427 SOHC "Cammer" Cam timing

[CobraCammer]

Hello All,

I have just gotten all my parts (heads are on their way) and have created my own "manual" on bolt torque specs for each part of my cammer engine project. What I cannot find is how to set the timing with 2 cam shafts (as there is one in each head). Does anyone out there who has experience with the 427 SOHC have any words of wisdom for timing the cams? I see that there are timing marks on the Cams themselves as well as Red, White and Blue marks on the 6' timing chain. The cams are set at the Factory grind, its got a 4.250 bore with a 4.250 stroke, Robert Pond aluminum block and Forged Rods and Crank. They are also Bill Coon heads. ANY help at all would be greatly appreciated.......

Thanks

[BBQCYCLEWERKES]

I don't remember which color link goes to each cam and crankshaft sprocket anymore. I remember each colored link must be on the marking on each gear. It was a real pain to time the cams. Took me about 4 hours to get it right and index both cams. I purchased 2 FE books also and read all there was to read on the cammer. That gave me the procedure to install the cam chain and how to degree the cams. I would also recommend you contact PopsPerformance. They sell SOHC stuff on ebay and they build cammers. They may be able to walk you thru the process. I hope this info helps and congrats on have one fine and rare motor.

[Barry_R]

The red timing mark goes on the cam stub sprocket. The others are self explanatory relative to the cam markings 'cuz they'll only gp one way. And just like on a "normal" engine, the markings are only a place to start out. Use your degree wheel and the adjustability on each cam sprocket to dial in the valve timing for number one - and then for number six on the other side. Really the same as a normal engine times two - plus a lot of effort with extra sprockets, tensioner, idler, and cover assembly....

[elric]

Make sure the chain and tensioners are adjusted properly before degreeing. Also, the cam timing is checked at the valve not on the cam lobe. Good Luck. It really isn't that bad to set up and degree properly.

[CobraCammer]

Thanks all,

This might sound crazy, but I have never build an engine before and wanted to start with this one. I was lucky enought to get all the parts, and will be putting this in a Factory Five Cobra. Its going to be set up for racing (Ceramic coated pistons, tephlon coated skirts, Ceramic coated combustion chamber, AFI balancer), but It is just going to be a weekend car to cruise through south florida) The more detailed you all can be the better. I understand the concept of timing a cam in a normal engine.

There are timing marks on the cams. Should the Colored links on the chain be set on a specific timing mark to start? Does anyone know if someone has a book on this? I see on amazon there is a book by the guy who sold me the cams (how to build a blown alcohol engine) where the book seems to be about a cammer engine. I am willing to buy, but am unsure if its relevant to a car running on pump gas?

Thanks again everyone!

[elric]

Don't take this personal but if you've never built an engine before this isn't the the one to start with. Take all your stuff to someone who has assembled a few of these and write the check. It will be far cheaper than breaking it or taking it in & out of the car multiple times. There are great engine builders on this site & on the FE site. Just my 2 cents.

[RICK LAKE]

Cobracammer The orginial 48 page manual will walk you through how to setup a cammer motor. The best info I have would be to go on the FE forum and talk to Jay Brown, John Conley or a couple of the other cammer guys. I know there is something about setting up the cam,shafts with a 4 degree advance and 4 degree retard on the camshafts to get the motor to work perfectly. I have no more copys left of this manual but my orginial one. Sorry Rick L. Ps I would be REAL careful about finding people who know how to setup cammers and making sure the know what they say. What part of the country are you in?? this may help you too.

[BBQCYCLEWERKES]

Yes, The passenger side cam needs to be set at 4 degrees advanced and the drivers side cam set up for 2 degrees retard if I remember correctly. This is for slop in the chain as they will stretch. I also meant to say one of the colored links attach to the cam stub and there will me a mark on the gear where it must attach. If I remember correctly, all the cam timing is set off TDC of #2 cylinder. Yes, all cam degreeing is done off the valve and not the cam lobe. Also, remove all lash on the rocker to valve. Good luck. I also spoke to an engineer with Crane Cams as he was very up on this motor and how to degree the cams. I hope this info helps and best of luck. I would also recommend you have an experienced engine builder set up this motor as it does get confusing and complicated for a 1st time builder.

[CobraCammer]

Thanks everyone. Ill be building this engine in the west palm area. I have the engine manual in pdf format so ill take a look. Thanks again!!!!!

[Jac Mac]

It occurred to me while reading this thread that cam timing might need a bit of a rethink in this case with the alloy block, although its only that portion of the block from cam c/l to deck that should affect it.

[Bringstone]

Hello Cobra Cammer. I have recently completed my Cammer build but it is mainly original 65 iron with the shim type valve adjustment. The Ford manual on the Cammer is a very poor piece of engine manual and you should be wary of it.
I believe the Ford engineers believed that the people using the manual would be advanced motor tuners/engineers and would have their own favourite methods of construction.

Particularly the setting up of the camshafts. Ford assembled these engines using the three timer marks and an engineered template - the template was never offered for sale and I have never seen one. Take heed of what Barry R is saying - the marks on the timing chains are only a starting point - there are many steps from there to get these cams set-up properly. Do NOT use the Ford manual for setting up these cams.

Don't be too concerned about playing with retarding or advancing the cams either - just set the cams straight up at zero degrees - advancing/retarding the cams about 2 degrees is the norm but you cannot be too sure what your cam grinder has built into the cam - a lot of SOHC cams have had the advance - up to 4 degrees already built in.

This method is one of many kicking around the web and may work with your set-up - it may not too. Thanks to retired Ford Engineer Bill for this one.

Bolt your cams into their respective heads, along with the intake rockers ONLY
for cylinders 1,4,5 and 6. The rockers for 1 and 6 should be slid out of the way of the cam lobes. Cylinders 4 and 5 are fixed in position on this engine and the rockers cannot be slid out of the way. Spin the cams until they are on the base circle for cylinders 4 and 5, adjust the valve lash to zero.

Look at the cam card and figure out where the intake valve is supposed to start opening for number 4. EG. If the duration of the cam is 300 and intake centreline is 110, the valve should start to open (with zero lash) at 40 degrees BTDC of cylinder 4. For the #4 cylinder, this would be 220 degrees on a degreed harmonic balancer. Move the crank to this position.(Degree wheel handy here).

Rotate the right side cam clockwise until it encounters resistance from valve springs and stop. Cam is timed approximately correct.

Install the timing gears and chains in this position, on both cams. Put the four outside bolts in the right cam sprocket, but NOT the left, leave the cam free to spin - install the centre-bolt loosely to hold sprocket in place but able to spin on camshaft.

Now tighten the timing chain using the block mounted tensioning bolt - until the chain clears the tensioning arm - must not be loose - do not over-tighten as the
stub-cam front is not supported until the front cover is on.

Now rotate the engine back 90 degrees from that position. You have now gone from intake opening #4 to intake opening of #5. Now rotate the left cam clockwise until it is resisted by the valve springs and stop. Install the 4 outside bolts. This cam is now timed approximately.

Now back off the adjusters on 4 and 5 rockers all the way, so you are opening the valves as little as possible when turning the engine, then use the intake centreline method to check the timing of each cam. Use #1 and #6 as they use the same timing marks on the degree wheel (360 degrees apart).

A good reference for intake centreline timing method is found here Hot Rods, Classic Cars & Street Rods - Hot Rod Magazine.

If however your cams are not ground to what your cam card suggests then this will not work for you - if that happens you will have to map the profiles of the cams yourself - I know this because my cams were not remotely like the mild street grind they purported to be from the card. My cams had the 4 degree adv/ret built into the cams.

This is a great engine to work on - built simple and strong - having said that - some of the castings are fragile and being alloy cannot be forced or over torqued - go very patiently and you will be fine.

You will probably find that you are missing any number of small parts that are essential to this engine - eBay is your friend.

I have rebuilt many,many engines and am very familiar with Euro and Japanese OHC's as well as the old school types. There are just so many things that a newby will miss when constructing this engine that I have to support what others have said about getting it built by someone. Getting someone with
Ford SOHC experience let alone FE is not so easy either.

Oh also when you have the cams timed rotate the engine to TDC on #1 and scribe you cams where the front retainer has the 0 degree mark - do both cams set at #1 TDC - much easier to fit the cams the next time.

I did have a lot of fun sourcing and building this engine so you probably will too.
Going into my 63 1/2 Galaxie 2 dr fastback 4spd (H&M suspension mods).

Wayne