Tremec 600 input shaft with 445 FE

[kdavies3]

Hi all, I'm hoping that someone out there can put my mind at rest.

I'm installing a new TKO 600 in my Contemporary build behind my newly built 445 stroker FE.
I've discovered that I need to fit a short input shaft (Tremec TCKT 5729).

The original input shaft is 26 spline 1 1/8" dia.
The short shaft is 26 spline but 1 1/16" dia. according to various things I've read including a Tremec site.
I'm hoping it's a misprint and that it's actually still 1 1/8" dia, if not the clutch is going to be hard to find I think.

Can anyone confirm this please?

[Grubby]

The only difference is the length of the shaft. The other option is to put a spacer between the trans and bellhousing.

John

[blykins]

Originally Posted by kdavies3

Hi all, I'm hoping that someone out there can put my mind at rest.

I'm installing a new TKO 600 in my Contemporary build behind my newly built 445 stroker FE.
I've discovered that I need to fit a short input shaft (Tremec TCKT 5729).

The original input shaft is 26 spline 1 1/8" dia.
The short shaft is 26 spline but 1 1/16" dia. according to various things I've read including a Tremec site.
I'm hoping it's a misprint and that it's actually still 1 1/8" dia, if not the clutch is going to be hard to find I think.

Can anyone confirm this please?

Same diameter and spline....just different length.

[elmariachi]

I'd go with the short shaft and retainer and forego the spacer. Disregard the following if you know it already:

Search and find the exploded diagram for the TKO 600. Pry the bearing retainer loose first and try and slide it off the shaft by itself. Then when you remove the shaft, be gentle so that all the small roller bearings (about 7mm in diameter) will hopefully remain stuck inside the long shaft and not fall into the transmission. These will have to be moved over to the new shaft. Use some sticky grease to hold them in place while you install the new shaft. You will also need something called anaerobic sealant to seal the bearing retainer back onto the face of the housing. Traditional RTV NOT recommended. Very straight-forward.

Lastly, before installing the transmission, measure the distance from the transmission face out to the tip of the shaft versus the distance from the pilot bearing hole out to the outer face of your bell housing. This stuff doesn't always fit together and you don't want the shaft tip hitting the recess in the crank flange.

[Tom Cimino]

I saw this on Kirkham's assembly manual post. Stand the transmission on it's face, so the input shaft is pointing down and the bearings will stay in the input shaft when you pull and re-install it. You will have to have a transmission stand, or use a Black & Decker Bench Mate, like I did, so the input shaft is hanging. Hope this makes sense.

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by Tom Cimino

I saw this on Kirkham's assembly manual post. Stand the transmission on it's face, so the input shaft is pointing down and the bearings will stay in the input shaft when you pull and re-install it. You will have to have a transmission stand, or use a Black & Decker Bench Mate, like I did, so the input shaft is hanging. Hope this makes sense.

And drain it first.

[kdavies3]

Thanks for your replies Guys, that's put my mind at rest for that at least, i could see no logical reason why they would reduce the diameter.

I am struggling to find a TCKT 5729 kit at the moment, anyone know who's got them (Brent maybe?)?
Most websites are coming up no stock.

I expect to be in the region of 500 bhp and 500+ lbs.ft so I also need
recommendations for a clutch too.

I'm running Eddy Performer RPM Heads, I was thinking of biasing the cam for torque rather than top end power, I was leaning towards the Comp Cams XE274H as I want to stay with a flat tappet hydraulic.
Again your thoughts please.

I'm told that big cubes quiets the cam down a bit so should I go one up from there? To maybe XE284H?

Barry R prefers the 282S solid cam I believe.

I was going to use the old Fireball 296 A which I have but upon close inspection I found a little damage on one the lobes.

Thanks again Guys.

[blykins]

I should be able to get one for you if you need one.

You'll be a little over 500hp I would think, so I would aim for a clutch kit that will hold that + 10%. McLeod and RAM both make 550hp capable clutch kits. If you want to lessen the possibility of chatter, I would go with the McLeod. The RAM probably won't, but it depends on your rear end gear and some other things, as it uses a sintered iron disc. Either one would work really well for you and I have a gazillion Cobra customers running each.

For the cam, either that you mentioned would work fine. If you're looking for something off the shelf (not a custom cam), the 282S would be my choice too. If you prefer a hydraulic cam, I would stick with something around 236/240° duration at .050".

[kdavies3]

Brent you have PM

[blykins]

Sent you an email....I need to know what flywheel you have.

[kdavies3]

Also emailed but it's a Hays 12-240.

[elmariachi]

I have a 294S in my 427 and love it. Its a lumpy but rhythmic idle and the car really pulls like a train from about 2k to 6k. I think once I upgrade from stock to a stage 2 head she'll really light up.