Type of oil in 427 S/O

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by JBCOBRA

My Builder said to go with conventional 15/50 Gibbs.
He is a High Flow oil type of builder. Builds a ton of Roundy Round engines too.

If I hadn't been using Brad Penn, I'd probably go with that... I just hate changing. I see that Joe Gibbs has "Conventional," "Semi-Synthetic," and "Synthetic." I guess that means our puddles are small, medium, and large.

[JBCOBRA]

LOL!!!
<<action>> knocking on wood.......and you may not even believe it, but I have No Leaks! "Hail Mary", T'is a Miracle

Originally Posted by patrickt

If I hadn't been using Brad Penn, I'd probably go with that... I just hate changing. I see that Joe Gibbs has "Conventional," "Semi-Synthetic," and "Synthetic." I guess that means our puddles are small, medium, and large.

[Stentor]

Originally Posted by krkucin

Regular? Or synthetic?

Here you go....

Originally Posted by Supercobra

Thanks Keith - On the Joe Gibbs site, the Hot Rod 15W50 comes in conventional or synthetic. Do you recommend one over the other?

Paul

Originally Posted by Keithc8

I use both and like to get about 2000 miles on the engine before I use the synthetic. I have had good luck with both of them. A lot of the guys run the standard stuff because it is a little less money and they change their oil once year and do not get that many miles on it.

Thanks, Keith

[FWB]

Originally Posted by patrickt

I think all of the oils of the Brad Penn/Joe Gibbs type caliber are now touted as being "partially synthetic." I know that's true of Brad Penn, but I don't really know what it means. It's kind of like being "partially pregnant."

what i was told by the refinery, the "partial synthetic" is because of the proprietary additives that are put into the blend. they are bound to state it is partially synthetic.

[JBCOBRA]

Does conventional or synthetic make any difference on a dyno?

[FWB]

as far as dyno numbers probably not but the breakin process could be affected by using synthetic, i prefer breakin with a oil designed for breakin. Brad Penn has a 30 weight breakin oil,

i'm just north of you, about 45 minutes, i stock their breakin oil.....email me if i can help. i'll ship anywhere.

Fred

[BAsque1]

Used to use Castrol 10-40, just Changed to Valvoline 20-50 R1 Racing Oil, expensive but goof oil. Lucas additive is good TLC for the engine.

[Silversmith]

Brad Penn 20/50w is part synthetic. But 40w is not It's still true blue! Doh! I mean green

[fordracing65]

So, what is the best oil, or the one most used, is their an OIL POLL on this site, we can vote to see what FE oil is KING...

[Silversmith]

I use a conventional/synthetic blend; Brad Penn 20/50. 12 quarts per change, but I'm happy with it. Yes I have converted!

[zrayr]

I use Mobil 1 15w-50 in both my BB & SBF's. Nineteen years later, numerous 289 HiPo's , Shelbys, CJ's, etc. no troubles.

Z

[DanEC]

Keith Craft got me started on Joe Gibbs HR oil (conventional). I use it in several old cars now. He gave me a case of 10W-30 but since has recommended going to the heavier weight they offer (15W-50 - can't remember without looking).

[Scufty]

Craft is only providing warranty with one type of oil? Are you joking me? That's crazy!
Someone please tell me how the "type" of oil makes that big a difference that a guy won't warranty his engines?

[fordracing65]

Originally Posted by Scufty

Craft is only providing warranty with one type of oil? Are you joking me? That's crazy!
Someone please tell me how the "type" of oil makes that big a difference that a guy won't warranty his engines?

How long is the warranty good for, it may be a deal he has with Gibbs...

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by Scufty

Craft is only providing warranty with one type of oil? Are you joking me? That's crazy!

Where did you read this? If above I apparently missed it.

[kevins2]

Originally Posted by DanEC

Keith Craft got me started on Joe Gibbs HR oil (conventional). I use it in several old cars now. He gave me a case of 10W-30 but since has recommended going to the heavier weight they offer (15W-50 - can't remember without looking).

Dan, did Keith say why he's recommending the heavier oil? My engine builder also recommends and sells Joe Gibbs (now called Driven, by the way) and has me using 10w-30.

Kevin

[Scufty]

Originally Posted by DanEC

Where did you read this? If above I apparently missed it.

Originally Posted by Keithc8 View Post
We have used about every oil possible. We will only warranty our engines if Joe Gibbs is used. If you look at the facts it has more ppm zinc and less ppm detergent than most any other oil. Try to stay away from most all oil that you can buy through a regular parts store. Those oils have to meet the lasted epa standards which have taken most all zinc out and added lots of detergents. As you well know zinc is what bonds the oil to the metal and the high ppm detergents wash the zinc away. This works great for late model stock engines with overhead cams and low spring pressure. Bottom line, make sure there is plenty zinc in the oil to save problems in the future.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by kevins2

Dan, did Keith say why he's recommending the heavier oil? My engine builder also recommends and sells Joe Gibbs (now called Driven, by the way) and has me using 10w-30.

Kevin

I contacted them because at hot idle I was getting as low as 15 psi with the 10W-30 oil. Tony with KC said I should probably switch to the 15W-40 oil since they build engines with some clearances a bit on the loose side.

So, I don't really know what to make of that - they started me off with 10W-30 and I'm still running it at the moment. I sort of think they were just suggesting a slightly heavier oil to take my mind off of watching the oil pressure gage all the time. I will probably switch again to the 15W-40 Joe Gibbs just because I have a case of it now - but the 10W-30 seems to be doing just fine.

Of course my FE is not as wild as a lot of them built for replicas and uses what I assume to be a standard pressure pump. Apparently KC doesn't subscribe to Rick Lake's position on FE oil pressure, at least not in all cases.

[Slither]

Brad Penn only!

[kevins2]

Originally Posted by DanEC

I contacted them because at hot idle I was getting as low as 15 psi with the 10W-30 oil. Tony with KC said I should probably switch to the 15W-40 oil since they build engines with some clearances a bit on the loose side.

So, I don't really know what to make of that - they started me off with 10W-30 and I'm still running it at the moment. I sort of think they were just suggesting a slightly heavier oil to take my mind off of watching the oil pressure gage all the time. I will probably switch again to the 15W-40 Joe Gibbs just because I have a case of it now - but the 10W-30 seems to be doing just fine.

Of course my FE is not as wild as a lot of them built for replicas and uses what I assume to be a standard pressure pump. Apparently KC doesn't subscribe to Rick Lake's position on FE oil pressure, at least not in all cases.

Thanks Dan, my engine builder also made the comment about looser clearances. My oil pressure gets down to 20 when idling hot so I'm sticking with the 10w-30.