Type of oil in 427 S/O

[krkucin]

What are people using for oil in their 427 side oilers? Regular, synthetic or a blend? Thanks!

[jwoodard]

I run Castrol 10W40.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by krkucin

What are people using for oil in their 427 side oilers? Regular, synthetic or a blend? Thanks!

Unless you have a solid flat tappet cam, there's not a whole lot of difference, that really matters, so long as you have the right viscosity. There is anecdotal evidence that synthetics leak more in FEs that non-synthetics (some report that switching to a synthetic brings about leaks that didn't exist before). Personally, I use Brad Penn.

[elmariachi]

I have run both Brad Penn 20W-40 and Valvoline VR-1 Racing straight 40W. Seems like the VR-1 stays clean longer. Only dinosaur oil for my dinosaur engine.

[RICK LAKE]

Been running 15W-40 rotella diesel oil for years. I have a hydro roller motor. I also run 1 bottle of either EOS oil suppiment or Lucas oil additive. HVHP oil pump with #100 spring. Have a accusump to start motor, no dry starts. Let motor run for 1-2 minutes without any change of throttle until some heat is in the oil and the pressure comes down to under 90 psi off idle. Any good oil will work but remember that they have removed alot of the Zinc and Ph. to help with wear and tear on the internals. Rick L. Ps I don't believe in syntheics for the extra cost in track cars. Also not looking for every extra HP I can find.

[JBCOBRA]

Have any of you guys tried the Joe Gibbs Hot Rod HR1 oil???
Since I am running in a fresh engine with their break in oil, I figured I would try it after 500 miles of their BR1 oil.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by JBCOBRA

Have any of you guys tried the Joe Gibbs Hot Rod HR1 oil???
Since I am running in a fresh engine with their break in oil, I figured I would try it after 500 miles of their BR1 oil.

Joe Gibbs is good stuff, and maybe a little pricier than Brad Penn. The only complaint I have with Brad Penn is that it's green. Yeah, yeah, I know it sounds kind of cool, and maybe it is, but small puddles of fresh coolant look just like Brad Penn to me. I had just changed my oil a couple of weeks ago and when I looked under the car a few days later there was a small, maybe three inch wide puddle of what looked exactly like the Brad Penn I had just put in her. So I wiped it up, tried to figure out where it could have come from (filter, "splash," maybe the copper crush washer was all used up...) and dismissed it, figuring if it was anything other than splash that it would reappear. I did "sniff" it on the off chance it was coolant, but detected no odor... and since it was dripping right from the back of the pan, I was sure it was Brad Penn. Well, it wasn't, and I found the source of the coolant leak shortly thereafter. Of course, every leak on an FE trails to the back of the engine and looks like an oil leak (usually like the rear seal)... even coolant leaks. I would prefer it if the Brad Penn was not the color of my coolant.

[JBCOBRA]

LOL Pat. Green oil. Could get confusing really quickly.
Prior to freshening up this engine I always used VR1. Never had a problem, but their newish packaging is confusing and I believe the zinc levels are way down compared to when I originally built this engine.

[elmariachi]

FYI zinc levels in VR-1 same as always, click here for specs.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by JBCOBRA

Have any of you guys tried the Joe Gibbs Hot Rod HR1 oil???
Since I am running in a fresh engine with their break in oil, I figured I would try it after 500 miles of their BR1 oil.

I use Joe Gibbs Conventional Hot Rod oil. Works for me. No issues.

[Stentor]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

I use Joe Gibbs Conventional Hot Rod oil. Works for me. No issues.

Same here--I've had good luck with Joe Gibbs HR oil.

[Bernica]

Originally Posted by JBCOBRA

Have any of you guys tried the Joe Gibbs Hot Rod HR1 oil???
Since I am running in a fresh engine with their break in oil, I figured I would try it after 500 miles of their BR1 oil.

I am running Joe Gibbs synthetic XP3. Pricey, plenty of ZDDP. So far, no issues. Pressure seemed more stable and seemed to run a little cooler, but maybe that's just me...

[Silversmith]

I go with what Lee Holman suggested for my FE; 40W! I use Brad Penn.

[mike harter]

Joe Gibbs 10/30 synthetic hotrod oil for average climate is the best.

[FWB]

Brad Penn only

[danc30]

Keith Craft said to use regular 10w-40. That's what I use. Castrol 10w-40.

I go by what the engine builder suggests......

[Stentor]

Originally Posted by danc30

Keith Craft said to use regular 10w-40. That's what I use. Castrol 10w-40.

I go by what the engine builder suggests......

Craft has changed his tune on this. He now recommends Joe Gibbs.

Originally Posted by Keithc8

We have used about every oil possible. We will only warranty our engines if Joe Gibbs is used. If you look at the facts it has more ppm zinc and less ppm detergent than most any other oil. Try to stay away from most all oil that you can buy through a regular parts store. Those oils have to meet the lasted epa standards which have taken most all zinc out and added lots of detergents. As you well know zinc is what bonds the oil to the metal and the high ppm detergents wash the zinc away. This works great for late model stock engines with overhead cams and low spring pressure. Bottom line, make sure there is plenty zinc in the oil to save problems in the future.

[krkucin]

Originally Posted by Stentor

Craft has changed his tune on this. He now recommends Joe Gibbs.

Regular? Or synthetic?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by krkucin

Regular? Or synthetic?

I think all of the oils of the Brad Penn/Joe Gibbs type caliber are now touted as being "partially synthetic." I know that's true of Brad Penn, but I don't really know what it means. It's kind of like being "partially pregnant."

[JBCOBRA]

My Builder said to go with conventional 15/50 Gibbs.
He is a High Flow oil type of builder. Builds a ton of Roundy Round engines too.