Lead additive necessary ?

[BAsque1]

Originally Posted by gregaba

Hi
I have been building FE motor's since about 62 or 63 for street and race. In the early 70's [72 or 73] we started installing hardened valve seat's in all of our build's so even if you have a c1 or c8 head etc. you could allready have the hardened seat's in it if it was buildt after the early 70's.
Even if you don't have the hardened seat's I have found out that you won't have any valve damage untill after 40,000 miles on the engine. I have pulled down engins that never had the hardened seat's with 55,000 miles and they had very little valve wear or seat wear but were ready for the hardened seat's.
As to the additive's I have never used them and don't recommend them for a well buildt motor. If you are worried about lube then if you add a small can of 2 cycle oil to each fill up you will be fine.
Greg

Tks Greg something to consider.
Lou

[rpatton3]

Does anything about the new oil with Zinc and Phosphorus help?

I used a can of oil stuff of Zinc and Phosphorus but my 427 SB had 610 miles.

Russell

[MRGEORGE077]

When I had a 67 Big Block Vette would go to the local airport and fill it up with
Avgas 100LL, Ran like a bat out of hell after that

[gregaba]

Hi
If you want to add zink then switch to Rotello or Dello diesel oil in the same weight that you are useing.
Diesel oil is high in zink and I use it as a break in oil on start up with my new engine build's.
It is better to use it on initial start up but doesn't hurt to use it later and they are very good oil's.
Greg

[Cobranut]

TRUE Tetraethyl Lead additives haven't been available for decades. That stuff is so hazardous in it's concentrated form I wouldn't dare handle it anyway.

Octane boosters are a ripoff. They're pretty much useless and even the best ones are misleading in their advertisements. What they call one "POINT' is actually 0.1 octane numbers, so you'd have to use TEN TIMES that amount to increase octane from 93 to 94.

The best way to boost octane is to mix in some 110 or 114 octane race gas. A 50% mix of 110 will take 93 to approx. 101 octane. Race gas is also still available with real tetraethyl lead, so it addresses the valve seat issue as well.

I run 66.6% CAM2 110 octane with 33.3% 93 pump gas in my 12.5:1 427 and it seems to work well.

I tried 100LL Avgas once and it wouldn't even idle well, much less run under load without ping. Avgas is optimized to work at high altitudes without vapor lock, so it doesn't vaporize well in automotive applications. It's octane is also calculated differently if I remember correctly.

Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by BAsque1

Well NYS still allows the sale of lead additives, they are available in places such as Autozone and Advance Auto parts. When it comes to gas I only use 93 octane plus Octane booster to 103.

I have never had a knock or ping since I have the car.I don't know if my valve seats are Stainless steel. I just changed the valve seals to cut down on the blue puff of smoke at 1st gear.

I have never used the lead additives in this car so I am just putting the question out since I was asked last week if I did or not. I am concerned thats all.
Tks for your input guys.
Sincerelyu
Basque1 (Lou)