427 SO build

[Dingocooke]

Looking for some FE build advice, I have a '68 hydraulic 427 SO block, and want to start collecting the parts for a build for my cobra; I dont want to go stroker, but would like to rev it to maybe 6500; so looking for a zero/internal balanced rotating assembly that I can get properly balanced, with ally flywheel etc once I have the block cleaned, sonic and any machining finished.
What are the recomendations on here; my thoughts were Eagle H beam rods and an aftermarket crank, maybe SCAT?
Head wise looking at ED's which also get me a weight saving, was thinking 73cc chambers with JE or Wiseco flat tops giving me around 10.6:1 CR. I'm open to advice with cam choice, I like the performance of a comp 270H in small blocks, but as this is my first big block build; maybe I need a little more cam?
Usage is a mixture of fairly hard street use (I have heavy shoes..especially the rght one....) with some cruising around when 'entertaining'..no track days.
I have a 2 x 4 barrell set up for it, which would be nice to use.
Any thoughts or advice for an FE newbie would be much appreciated!!

[Tom Cimino]

You need to buy a copy of Barry Rabotnic's "How to Build Max-Performance FE Ford Engines". I've read mine cover to cover and it will tell you just about all you need to know.

[Dingocooke]

Hi Tom, thanks for the post; I have the Barry R book which a mate kindly gave me, which is great, but looking for some indication on parts; things slightly less easy over this side of the pond, anything FE needs to come over from the USA so trying to make the right decisions based on the mass of FE experience on Club Cobra!
Cheers!!
Steve

[KevinW]

I am not sure if your 2 carby set-up will fit under your hood.

oh, and one other word:
tyres????

[rpatton3]

Is the block for a 1968 Cougar GT-E? It would command a premium price and you could get another block.

You would have made a date coded restoration for an 44 year old car.

Thanks,

Russell

[Dingocooke]

Kev

Yea looks tight on the two carb height issue, only time will tell!
As for tyres (or tires seeing as were posting stateside....) I am sick of tripping over them/moving them, but not done the KO hub swap yet as I am way too busy driving the car and riding my bikes; summer is for using the toys and collecting parts; winter is for building and tinkering!!
Hence why I am trying to decide now what parts to collect for the sideoiler!!

Russell

I see your point, but I am in England, so not so many opportunities for selling to a date code restorer over here, and even less opportunities to buy another 427 SO block!

Back on topic; has anyone got any answers or suggestions to my original post?

Cheers

Steve

[DanEC]

A low riser 2x4 intake should fit under a smooth hood. A medium or high riser intake will require a hood scoop. SCAT crankshafts seem to be the aftermarket crankshaft of choice.

[Dingocooke]

Thanks for the reply, I have looked at Scat's website but they don't appear to do a stock stroke 427 crank, or maybe I missed it!
I'm looking at a stock stroke internal balance crank rather than go stoker, to keep a stock 427 engine capacity, and the revier nature of a stock stroke engine.
I have a stock 427 SO crank, which has been butchered badly; I've not had it checked out yet professionally yet, but it looks to have had at least two different balance jobs and even some welding and heavy metal work; so I am considering it junk!
My outlook is if I can go for new rods and crank, I can be happier about revving it out than worry about 44 year old rotating components!
Thanks for the answers so far
Regards
Steve

[RICK LAKE]

Dingocooke Steve There have been a ton of guys on here with buildup over the years. The 2 things I will tell you from 15+ years of abuse is save your money and buy a Barry R. stroker kit. The 4.25 kit is solid and come balanced for a couple of extra dollars. Revving the crap out of a 427 oem bottom end is a shoprt life if you like racing and road course driving. The last motor to blow on here was Sammy's. This was a well built motor that on the street would last forever. ON the track it broke. Read the story.
Oil pressure with an FE bottom end is min of #80 psi and if racing running a #100 pound spring is safe with a large 7-9 quart pan and a 2-3 quart accusump. With a BBC rod bottom end, so far 80# seams to be working out OK. The rods weight less and the bearings are wider. 60# is for street car only IMO. I have run both ways. .080" jets in the heads for limiters.
You need torque to move your car, not HP. HP is for doing 140 mph and holding speed. Finding a good machinist that knows FE motor is another issue. The other limiting factor is you are running a small camshaft, any thing past the max HP output is just wasting motor. If you can turn 6,000 rpm and save the motor, why go to 6,500 rpm for a shorter life. Your money, time, and motor. My 2 cents good luck with the build. Ps it's hard to get parts in GB, break that motor and see again how hard to get parts. What's the matter with not running a Cleveland?? 600HP is easy with this motor and again oiling modes. Plus you can turn 7,000 rpms easy. Rick L.

[xb-60]

Originally Posted by Dingocooke

....would like to rev it to maybe 6500; so looking for a zero/internal balanced rotating assembly that I can get properly balanced, with ally flywheel ....

Steve - firstly the caveat - I don't necessarily know what I'm talking about.
I would talk at length to my engine builder before going with an aluminium flywheel. Reducing the mass will help an engine 'blip' easily, but won't necessarily help it rev more quickly on the road. If you are keen on big revs (go for it!), then you need the correct mass and size flywheel/clutch, and harmonic balancer, all correctly zero-balanced, to soak up the harmonics at high revs, otherwise there's more likelihood of a broken crank.
Cheers,
Glen

[silverline]

Steve,

go stroker! As written here, FE stroker cranks have the better designed Chevy rod journals.

Bought a 427 SO in 2010 from KC and ordered the 4.125 stroke (= 468 cui). I like revving engines too and I am very happy with my motor (alloy flywheel, mech. flat tapped cam).

Greetings from germany,

Stefan

[Clois Harlan]

My first 427 was built for high RPM but I didn't protect the bottom end with an accusump or dry sump system. Consequently several years ago I was on the Texas Motor Speedway High Banks turning about 6800 or so (I had put a 7200 rpm chip in my rev limiter) when my engine let go. Very expensive rpms. Now I run solid lifters with a .600 lift cam, single 850 4bbly carb, roller rockers with an alum flywheel and keep everything under 6000 rpm. Plenty snappy and top end is about 135 mph or so.

I used a steel 427 crank (you can get a 390 crank for cheap if you are not going to race) that is zero balanced. You can also take a 428 crank and remove the weights and make it zero balance. Lots of choices but be sure you keep the bore less than .030. My new 427 cleaned up at .015 which gives me room to clean it up again if necessary. And yes I am running chevy pistons.


Clois

[olddog]

If you want to stay stock stroke, look for a large truck 391 FT engine. They are the same stroke as a 427. Not sure if all were steel, but many of them were. The snout is larger diameter and must be turned down.

A local engine builder had one a few years ago, when I talked to him. I don't know if he still does.

If I was going for high rpm, I would start with that crank. Grind it smooth, to get rid of any crack initiation points. Shot peen, nitride harden, generous radius, balance, etc.

[Barry_R]

If you choose to use a 391 truck crank be prepared to do a lot of grinding - or to pay for a lot of mallory metal during balancing. Just thought you should be prepared....