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10-10-2012, 04:59 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,527
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Not Ranked
Where to put water temp sensor?
I have a feeling I know the answer to this question but I'll ask anyway. I'm using an original low riser 2x4 intake and now that I'm preparing to install my dash panel I'm looking for a place to screw in the temp gage sensor. The only sizeable ports (one in top of intake and one in water pump) I have my heater hoses plumbed to. There is one boss and small plugged opening directly in front of the carburetor that looks to be in the water passage. I would have to drill this out considerably for the Smiths gage sensor and then vacuum out the cuttings.
Not being a Ford engine guy - is this my only option? I suspect it is. Or is there someplace in the block (428) it can go? I'll have to figure out what size that sensor is and see if I have a tap that big.
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10-10-2012, 05:26 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Colorado Springs,
CO
Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft, supercharged Coyote
Posts: 2,452
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Not Ranked
Ideally, you want the sensor somewhere near the thermostat; but certainly near the front/top of the engine.
I bet you could find a brass adapter at your local NAPA store.
__________________
.boB "Iron Man"
NASA Rocky Mountain TTU #42
www.RacingtheExocet.com
BDR #1642 - Supercharged Coyote, 6 speed Auto
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10-10-2012, 06:44 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,013
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
I have a feeling I know the answer to this question but I'll ask anyway. I'm using an original low riser 2x4 intake and now that I'm preparing to install my dash panel I'm looking for a place to screw in the temp gage sensor. The only sizeable ports (one in top of intake and one in water pump) I have my heater hoses plumbed to. There is one boss and small plugged opening directly in front of the carburetor that looks to be in the water passage. I would have to drill this out considerably for the Smiths gage sensor and then vacuum out the cuttings.
Not being a Ford engine guy - is this my only option? I suspect it is. Or is there someplace in the block (428) it can go? I'll have to figure out what size that sensor is and see if I have a tap that big.
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Do you not have these two holes up front? The top one takes the sensor, the lower one takes the heater hose fitting.
Last edited by patrickt; 11-03-2016 at 10:37 AM..
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10-10-2012, 07:28 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,527
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
Do you not have these two holes up front? The top one takes the sensor, the lower one takes the heater hose fitting.
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Patrick - mine is a LR version, but yeah it has two ports like that. However the one on center is only drilled out to about 1/4 inch so I will have to do some heavy duty drilling and tapping for the sensor. I wish I had thought of this before the engiine was assembled. Oh well - where is my drill.
Dan
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10-10-2012, 07:39 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,013
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
Patrick - mine is a LR version, but yeah it has two ports like that. However the one on center is only drilled out to about 1/4 inch so I will have to do some heavy duty drilling and tapping for the sensor. I wish I had thought of this before the engiine was assembled. Oh well - where is my drill.
Dan
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I guess you could put a shop vac in to the thermostat opening while you drill -- it might not be too bad. I don't know, maybe some of the machinists around here know some tricks for that.
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10-10-2012, 08:09 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,527
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Not Ranked
I've taken a small piece of rubber tube and taped it up to a vacuum hose to vacuum a passage out before. This is manageable - just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing some other option before I break out the drill.
Thanks
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10-11-2012, 04:06 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Kansas City,
KS
Cobra Make, Engine: jbl
Posts: 2,291
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it probably wouldn't matter which was the heater hose and temp port? use the hole closest to the thermostat opening..
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10-11-2012, 06:01 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Canton,
GA.
Cobra Make, Engine: E.R.A. #505
Posts: 216
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Grease on the drill bit will catch a lot of the shavings. This works good with a tap as well.
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10-11-2012, 06:08 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,527
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by tboneheller
Grease on the drill bit will catch a lot of the shavings. This works good with a tap as well.
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I haven't had time to measure the fitting yet - anyone happen to know what size hole and thread count for a tap is needed? Appears to be the same as for the heater hose nipples. I'm wondering if it's a pipe thread tapping also (NPT?). I will probably have to look around in Sears for one of those.
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10-11-2012, 06:18 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: West Chester,
PA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #795 427 S/C completed Jan. '14 - '68 FE 427 side oiler
Posts: 1,052
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Not Ranked
Hi Dan,
I'd suggest speaking with Doug at ERA if you haven't already. He could likely answer all your questions, including the type and size of the thread you'll need.
Regards,
Kevin
__________________
"Anyone who drives faster than you is a maniac and anyone who drives slower than you is an idiot" - George Carlin
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10-11-2012, 07:03 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Williamsport,
PA
Cobra Make, Engine: Kellison Stallion 468 FE
Posts: 2,703
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using Patrick's pic as a guide i use the port closest to the distributor. that port will pick up the temp from crossover between the two heads.
and yes the thread is NPT, i think if i remember its 1/4 NPT if you buy a tap be sure its not just a carbon steel tap or you may break it off. make sure the tap package or the seller shows it to be HSS high speed steel.
use tapping fluid for lubrication or liquid soap if none is available. if you have any tube lying around use it as a sleeve for the tap to insure its going in straight...
__________________
Fred B
Last edited by FWB; 10-11-2012 at 07:11 AM..
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10-11-2012, 09:08 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,013
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Not Ranked
What should govern what port you choose for what is whether or not it will fit along with your fat little fingers. I'm assuming you're going to put a little shut off valve in the manifold -- they're only a couple of bucks from Summit -- but you have to make sure that you can reach your hand in there and that the handle of the valve doesn't hit something (like your front carb, or in my case a Turkey Pan, which is removed for this shot). Here's the shot of mine and you can see why it is why it is:
Last edited by patrickt; 11-03-2016 at 10:38 AM..
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10-11-2012, 09:15 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Williamsport,
PA
Cobra Make, Engine: Kellison Stallion 468 FE
Posts: 2,703
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Not Ranked
OMG no...no...there's dust on Pat's aircleaner.
your slipping,
__________________
Fred B
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10-11-2012, 10:16 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,527
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
What should govern what port you choose for what is whether or not it will fit along with your fat little fingers. I'm assuming you're going to put a little shut off valve in the manifold -- they're only a couple of bucks from Summit -- but you have to make sure that you can reach your hand in there and that the handle of the valve doesn't hit something (like your front carb, or in my case a Turkey Pan, which is removed for this shot). Here's the shot of mine and you can see why it is why it is:
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I will be plumbed the same way as I already have my heater hose nipple/shutoff valve in place and my hoses run.
Patrick - how did ERA run the tubes on your motor for the oil temp sensor and the oil pressure line? Over the top of the engine and down to the oil filter housing and pan - or down at the firewall and along the lower side of the block?
Thanks
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10-11-2012, 10:48 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,013
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
Patrick - how did ERA run the tubes on your motor for the oil temp sensor and the oil pressure line? Over the top of the engine and down to the oil filter housing and pan - or down at the firewall and along the lower side of the block?
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The oil temperature sender is located on the driver side rear of the Canton pan. The sending tube goes straight up and through a grommet located below the fuse boxes, There are two grommets there, actually, and the passenger side grommet is for the speedo cable and the driver side grommet is for the oil temperature sender. You can't see it in the second pic, but the arrow is pointing to it. The oil pressure tube runs from the filter housing directly over to the fender and up and under the fender to a hidden grommet along the firewall. You can see it in the pic and the other red arrow is pointing to it.
Last edited by patrickt; 11-03-2016 at 10:38 AM..
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10-11-2012, 11:05 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,013
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Not Ranked
Oil temperature tube as viewed from inside the car.
Last edited by patrickt; 11-03-2016 at 10:38 AM..
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10-11-2012, 11:15 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,013
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Not Ranked
Note that the oil pressure line is insulated from the filter mount over to the fender wall. From there it tracks up and then straight towards the hidden grommet.
Last edited by patrickt; 11-03-2016 at 10:39 AM..
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10-11-2012, 11:42 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,013
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Not Ranked
This is a good shot because it illustrates three points: A is the entry point of the oil pressure line, through the hidden grommet on the firewall, as viewed from inside the car looking up. B shows the oil pressure line loops that help to avoid vibration leaks, and C shows the loops for the excess capillary tube. Someone around here, maybe it was Chas, tried cutting and splicing the capillary tube instead of looping it. (No, it wasn't Chas )
Last edited by patrickt; 11-03-2016 at 10:39 AM..
Reason: typo
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10-11-2012, 11:52 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,527
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Not Ranked
OK - thanks for the information. I think you have the SC dash - is your oil pressure gage in the center or over by the steering wheel? I have a steet dash and that seems like a long way around to hit the gage in the center. But, either way I think running them down low along the side of the block will work best.
Thanks again
Ahh - more pictures. Should be self explanatory now.
Last edited by DanEC; 10-11-2012 at 11:54 AM..
Reason: More pictures
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10-11-2012, 11:59 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,013
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
OK - thanks for the information. I think you have the SC dash - is your oil pressure gage in the center or over by the steering wheel?
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My oil pressure gauge is over to the left of the steering wheel. Even if it was over by the glove box I think I'd run the pressure line the same way as it is now.
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