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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2013, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodneym View Post
BTW, what's the backstory to the Oyster Bar?
Like the one in Grand Central, the figurative 'Oyster Bar' is a place where poser snobs gather to preen with each other.
Can you think of a more apt denizen than the boy we love to hate (and relishes it!)?
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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2013, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ERA Chas View Post
Can you think of a more apt denizen than the boy we love to hate (and relishes it!)?
Uhhhh, maybe someone who has a mirror finish Cobra in his garage and puts less than 50 miles a year on it?
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2013, 07:21 PM
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Uhhhh, maybe someone who has a mirror finish Cobra in his garage and puts less than 50 miles a year on it?
We don't HATE him, we just want him to see the error of his ways...
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2013, 08:15 PM
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damn, this is a tough crowd!!!!
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2013, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ERA Chas View Post
B. It turned into 'Extreme Make-Over; fake Cobra edition' because that car really needs one.
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Originally Posted by RodKnock View Post
It's also ample evidence that beige doesn't look good on Cobras.

I never really noticed it before, guys, but I think it's the same color as my wife's minivan! Maybe I should think about getting it painted? I'd hate to have someone mistake us the next time we drive through CT... probably safe though, as her headrests don't look like they were made by an amusement park balloon sculptor...
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2013, 09:27 PM
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Uhhhh, maybe someone who has a mirror finish Cobra in his garage and puts less than 50 miles a year on it?
50 miles per year? Come on now. That's practically "daily driver" status for me.
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2013, 12:26 AM
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Come on, Rod, show us a pic of your odometer....
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2013, 05:46 AM
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Come on, Rod, show us a pic of your odometer....
If he sends it to me first, I'll make it say anything he wants it to. I was telling PDUB off line that there has always been something about my Trigos that bugged me, but I could never put my finger on it. Doing this little "paint exercise" has been the proverbial "wake up slap." think I'll start the wheel painting process this weekend. I don't see the need to do any more mockup work. The "ERA Chas Wheel Method" is a brilliant idea. Hmmm, perhaps I should start a new thread....
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2013, 09:00 AM
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I never really noticed it before, guys, but I think it's the same color as my wife's minivan! Maybe I should think about getting it painted? I'd hate to have someone mistake us the next time we drive through CT... probably safe though, as her headrests don't look like they were made by an amusement park balloon sculptor...
Hey pal-you fit right in here!
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2013, 09:04 AM
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think I'll start the wheel painting process this weekend.
Just wipe the centers with a lacquer thinner towel to get adhesion or the paint will fly off at 30 MPH (top speed).

...and don't start another thread-Ron is ready to cancel your account at the bandwidth bank.
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2013, 09:06 AM
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I have magic adhesion promoter waiting in the wings. What type of paint is it that is on the Trigos?
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2013, 09:38 AM
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I have magic adhesion promoter waiting in the wings. What type of paint is it that is on the Trigos?
It may be powder coat or urethane. Ask Bob P.
You still need a clean surface on the wheel and you won't need the promoter. It's only an etching primer anyway.
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2013, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ERA Chas View Post
It may be powder coat or urethane.
Yep, found a quote where Lynn says the center section is powder coated in "authentic steel grey."
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2013, 11:46 AM
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Dunno how 'steel gray' is authentic for magnesium unless it's badly oxidized...
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2013, 11:58 AM
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I had planned to use an adhesion promoter, and not an etching primer, because I thought it looked like powder coating and some of the professional paint forums recommend using a primer designed predominantly for plastic surfaces when painting over powder coating. Apparently powder coating is more akin to plastic than it is to metal or paint. When painting over powder coating, the smart money recommends cleaning, degreasing, scuffing, degreasing, adhesion promotion, base coat, and clear coat.
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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2013, 01:48 PM
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Patrick-I would not steer you wrong. Lacquer thinner applied by paper towel will immediately dull the powder coat. The wetter, the deeper the incursion. Removes brake dust completely. But it will not remove powder completely or easily. That fresh surface is your base for color-it becomes like primer and very clean.
I know this because I had every, bracket, all suspension parts including half-shafts, springs, uprights and the bar and jack hooks done in powder. I forget the actual parts count but take every fastener out of the complete suspension plus all the brackets every where and spread those parts on the floor. That's how many. I kept those coated parts immaculate over the years by toweling with WD-40 and wiping dry.
I learned the care and feeding of powder coat over 2 decades that way.
Trying to save you all that monkey-motion the 'smart money' recommends. You're not doing a $20K custom paint on a raw body. I did that too-in 1990.
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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2013, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas View Post
Patrick-I would not steer you wrong. Lacquer thinner applied by paper towel will immediately dull the powder coat. The wetter, the deeper the incursion. Removes brake dust completely. But it will not remove powder completely or easily. That fresh surface is your base for color-it becomes like primer and very clean.
I know this because I had every, bracket, all suspension parts including half-shafts, springs, uprights and the bar and jack hooks done in powder. I forget the actual parts count but take every fastener out of the complete suspension plus all the brackets every where and spread those parts on the floor. That's how many. I kept those coated parts immaculate over the years by toweling with WD-40 and wiping dry.
I learned the care and feeding of powder coat over 2 decades that way.
Trying to save you all that monkey-motion the 'smart money' recommends. You're not doing a $20K custom paint on a raw body. I did that too-in 1990.
Well, alright... I'll do it your way.
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2013, 02:45 PM
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Well, alright... I'll do it your way.
Good-lacquer thinner also removes roll bar padding.
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2013, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas View Post
Good-lacquer thinner also removes roll bar padding.
Hey, I think you're onto something here... that foamy rubber will probably melt in the lacquer thinner and leak on the beige, prompting a color change. But hey, why not kill two birds with one stone?

Pick a new body color that matches the Trigo centers as they are and you can solve the beige problem once and for all! On top of that, I won't have to worry about driving the wife's minivan though CT. Everybody wins! While you're at it, they can patch the holes on that second balloon bar and voila, back to being a respectable ERA!
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Last edited by PDUB; 04-18-2013 at 08:41 PM..
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  #80 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2013, 08:42 PM
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You guys are a hoot! The bed pan and Peter Pan comments had me in stitches...
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