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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2013, 11:44 AM
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Scott---you need to send a photo of those trophys that you won with that body down there for his garage wall------


4 years plus a few days!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Last edited by Jerry Clayton; 10-09-2013 at 11:58 AM..
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2013, 01:28 PM
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Jerry: I posted on the "need a body" thread.
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Old 10-14-2013, 08:17 AM
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Update:
Removed intake and found the port plug oiling problem. (se pics) As Brent said, it appears to be the intake gasket on that side. It became de-laminated and squirmed around, loosing sealing ability at the lower edge. The manifold is ported so large that there is very little sealing surface at the bottom, but why did it delaminate and squirm in the first place? Manifold may be out of square, I'll check.
Also see pic of valve stem seal. Looks ok, fits stem tighly. don't know if it's viton or not, are all viton seals blue?
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Old 10-14-2013, 08:33 AM
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I've drifted off topic on this thread, from the valve seat/ noise to intake oil leak.
re: valve train (or other source?) noise, so far I have found nothing. Noise was definately heard in # 6 exhaust header intermittantly and in no other pipe. Thought it had to be in valve train, broken spring, loose seat, collapsed lifter ?
Removed exh springs all seems ok there, from what I can see, seats are intact. Pulled lifters and they look ok, but I see that I cannot disassemble them due to the bar rivet.
I guess next step is to pull head.
Any thoughts/ ideas appreciated.
Ted
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Old 10-14-2013, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOTORHEAD View Post
Update:
The manifold is ported so large that there is very little sealing surface at the bottom, but why did it delaminate and squirm in the first place?
Also see pic of valve stem seal. Looks ok, fits stem tighly. don't know if it's viton or not, are all viton seals blue?
Because it needs a MLS backing which standard gaskets do not have. The 1247-S FelPros I mentioned earlier do and stop this and also prevent antifreeze from attacking the gasket-eroding it. Plus they are a harder material-like 'linoleum'.
Those are the teflon stem seals. They harden with heat in street use and take oil.
Here are the vitons:
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Old 10-14-2013, 09:08 AM
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In your 4th photo there is a stud that is in the top of the intake port----------do you have any sealer on the threads??????????? If not and it goes thru to the port it will leak oil big time into the vacume----
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Old 10-14-2013, 09:57 AM
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ERAChas:The intake gaskets I used are BT double thick from Barry R. Due to head milling and used manifold with unknown prior machine work I had too much gap with ports lined up for std thickness 1247 gasket, plus trimming it got into the printoseal mat'l. (My ports are 1.5x2.4) The BT gasket is for the large gap between intake and head and has extra mat'l for the lg ports. Don't know if the 1247S3 is thick enough.
Thanks for the valve seal info, I'll have to get some.
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Old 10-14-2013, 10:00 AM
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Jerry: Holes do not go through into port. ARP rocker stand studs install instructions tell you to not bottom them out, as I suppose if you cranked hard enough they could break-thru into the port.
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Old 10-14-2013, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOTORHEAD View Post
ERAChas:The intake gaskets I used are BT double thick from Barry R. Due to head milling and used manifold with unknown prior machine work I had too much gap with ports lined up for std thickness 1247 gasket, plus trimming it got into the printoseal mat'l. (My ports are 1.5x2.4) The BT gasket is for the large gap between intake and head and has extra mat'l for the lg ports. Don't know if the 1247S3 is thick enough.
Thanks for the valve seal info, I'll have to get some.
Now I understand. I might just try doubling the 1247S-3's if you check the thickness compared to the BT's you have. If they size right, I might trim the port into the printo seal area and seal that area with Motorcraft gray RTV. I'd call call Barry first to ask if that works as those gaskets are definitely the solution to sealing the ports and water.
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