428 FE easy tune?

[juneracer]

Just trying to find some info on what I think is real basic stuff, at least for some. I have a 427SC ERA that I bought after my girl friend’s father passed away, from her Mother, I’m the third owner. From the limited literature with the car, it was completed in 1988 and currently has 11,500 miles. I don't know much about the car or engine history. The engine is a 428 FE, I’m told out of a 66 T-bird, aluminum intake, hydraulic lifters and 4 barrel Holly. The top end looks stock (looked when I changed the battery) and the limited literature says it was bored .030 over but not much or any upgrades, the receipts suggest a pretty standard rebuild. It has an Accel dual point distributer, 37000 Series and matching coil.
I plan on driving it fairly regularly on street, semi spirited but likely no track use. I’d like opinions on suggested changes/upgrades; presumably things have changed in 25 years?
-distributor and ignition; keep dual points, breakerless? Gap/dwell/ignition timing?
-plug wires; no radio-solid metal core?
-spark plugs; best choice?
-valve train rocker upgrades required?
-RPM shift point? 5000, 5500, 6000? What’s safe?
-preferred engine oil?
-premium fuel? Additive for the ethanol?

All or anything will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Rick

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by juneracer

Just trying to find some info on what I think is real basic stuff, at least for some. I have a 427SC ERA that I bought after my girl friend’s father passed away, from her Mother, I’m the third owner. From the limited literature with the car, it was completed in 1988 and currently has 11,500 miles. I don't know much about the car or engine history. The engine is a 428 FE, I’m told out of a 66 T-bird, aluminum intake, hydraulic lifters and 4 barrel Holly. The top end looks stock (looked when I changed the battery) and the limited literature says it was bored .030 over but not much or any upgrades, the receipts suggest a pretty standard rebuild. It has an Accel dual point distributer, 37000 Series and matching coil.
I plan on driving it fairly regularly on street, semi spirited but likely no track use. I’d like opinions on suggested changes/upgrades; presumably things have changed in 25 years?
-distributor and ignition; keep dual points, breakerless? Gap/dwell/ignition timing?
-plug wires; no radio-solid metal core?
-spark plugs; best choice?
-valve train rocker upgrades required?
-RPM shift point? 5000, 5500, 6000? What’s safe?
-preferred engine oil?
-premium fuel? Additive for the ethanol?

All or anything will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Rick

Attempting in order:
The ERA chassis number is engraved on the driver side front X-member and / or cast into the fiberglass on driver side in the hood opening flange toward the front. You'll want that to order parts from Bob at ERA and get history info from them about it. I'd guess it's in the low 200's. That way
you can find out if ERA assembled it or the first owner.
Also guessing that it has a Joe Lapine rebuild 428-pretty 'standard', especially if ERA assembled it. It will probably have factory non-adjust rockers-your choice to change. And a 4160 780 Holley. Identify it so you can buy the right 'Quick Kit'.
Dump the ignition. Get:Mallory Unilite, MSD+ Blaster2 coil, Moroso SPIRAL CORE wires, NGK fine wire plugs (call their techline for heat range- I use FR-4's but I have a lot more motor than that), gapped .045".
Make sure the balancer ring has not spun and set advance to 36 with 18 initial all in by 2600 or so.
I have run those components for 3 decades in mine with zero problems.
Stay below 5500 especially with factory rockers. There's not enough cam and heads to make power above that anyway-it's a rebuild.
I've used Rotella 10-40 in the northeast and 91 to 93 pump gas.
If you find the motor's more aggressive than that, post it here.

[RICK LAKE]

juneracer Rick the best thing is to call ERA and talk to Peter P. or Bob P. They might have a folder on the car and the build. You need the ERA serial #, It's no the frame.
If normal driving, the car has gone 11K miles. Change the oil every 2-3,000 miles with a good oil of 10-40 or 15-40 and add 1 quart to over fill because of slow returns of oil from the heads. A 1/2 bottle of Lucas oil suppliment wouldn't hurt either.
As for gas and meth, It does eat any rubber hose over time and harden them. I got 15 years out of mine before having to replace. Use a plus gas and see how the motor runs. If OK stay with this, if it pings and makes driving issues go to a high octane.
Repack front wheel bearings, check the brakes and check all fluid in the trans and rearend.
AS for shifting points, the less higher RPMS turned the longer the motor should last. IF it's a hydro lifter motor, most runout of steam about 5,200 and start to hydro lock the lifters. 5,500 is a safe max rpm. Go pass this and you will feel the motor nose over and have no more power.
For motor upgrades, pull a rocker cover and check to see that the shafts have end supports. If not would upgrade them to a better system. Leave the rest alone and drive. How are the oil leaks, and under the car after a road test? Cobras are like Harleys and mark their spots. Rick L.

[juneracer]

Thanks Rick and Chas for the input, Its chassis 161. I’ve had a couple of emails with Bob P. on other subjects. I have some documentation on who built the chassis. I’ve replaced or had replaced a lot of the standard stuff and did or had done all standard service items. It does loose oil out of pretty much every seal it seems but not to the point where I want to pull it apart to fix the seals. Freeze plugs are weeping a bit as well. All standard stuff I’m assuming. As you say some posts say rocker upgrades are a plus as well.

Just trying to determine how much time and $ to spend. And only your experience can tell me that. Thanks again for the help.

R