Starter needed for 427 FE

[66gtk]

I'm looking for a good starter for my ERA. It has a 427 FE. I'm finishing up replacing the ring gear on the flywheel (184T) and don't want to risk running the old starter. I'm looking for alternatives. The PowerMaster that was on there sure didn't last long, but I don't know if that was the flywheel's fault, the starter, or the installer.

I thought I remember a thread recommending one from O'Reilys or something, but couldn't figure out if that was for an FE or a SBF. I believe I'm running a Lakewood Bellhousing with my Toploader.

Thanks!
Troy

[wkooiman]

I've tried a lot of mini starters. I was only happy with one - from Rob McQuarie from Denver Colorado. He makes a new nose and uses, I believe, a V-10 Ford starter. Class act part, from a class act person.

I can't find his website. I think it was lost to a company called Blue Oval Performance in Washington. That isn't Rob.

This is Rob:

332-428 Ford FE Engine Forum: Visit to Blue Oval Performance shop

Original Ford starts are very good too, but they are big and sometimes difficult to fit with certain header designs.

[Ron61]

I went to a starter shop here and had them build me a high torque one for mine and it has been on there almost 20 years with no problems. It is not a mini but is not as large as the stock ones and that gave me enough room for a heat shield.

Ron

[cobrakiwi]

IMO these guys make a great starter, I have never had a failure with one of there starters to date.

Welcome to RobbMc Performance Products

[DanEC]

Troy - I think Large Arbor went through a starter fit issue on his car in a series of threads. You might search for them and look them over.

[undy]

I also am running a RobbMc starter in my KC 482" FE. Best darn starter I've ever run. It was easy to clock and spins the engine well.

Robb has a top notch company and very respected in the FE community.

[Large Arbor]

I have been through a myriad of started issues. The culprit was with a Bellhousing aligned too far toward the passenger side of the car. I think I have that sorted out, but still can only use a Robb MC starter which had the best alignment with the new Bellhousing. If you get one or any after markets, double and triple check the clearances. I would also get the pinion support as over time most starters seem to get a little sloppy. If I had a choice, I would run the dynaforce, however, it would not align enough to get good engagement with the flywheel. Good luck with you selection and feel free to message or call me on my starter woes which I think (crossing my fingers) are all sorted out.

Phil

[66gtk]

Thank you everybody.

[Detroit Bill]

I am using this starter on my 482 FE. It spins it with no problem.
I have not had it long enough to vouch for its durability.

CVR Protorque Starters 5049 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Good luck

[Blue66]

great input ...

[RICK LAKE]

66gtk Troy if you look at some of the old threads on starter problems, you will see Lakewood shields are a pain in the butt. Alignment of the bell to the block is very important. Try to center it under .005" if you can. max measurement is .010". Here's the other problem, engagement of the gear of the starter to the flywheel. You want an air gap between teeth of .035" to .050" with engagement of the bendix on the starter. If you are running a block plate, you will only get about 50% of engagement. I have not tried a Rob starter. I have used mini's because of Shelby blocks. Some guys get the starter mounting face machined back .250" to get full engagement. I cut out where the block plate sits around the opening and get 75% gear engagement. No noise on engagement or release against the flywheel. I went through two Tilton mini starter bendix drives before changing design. Quicktime bells are centered on the blocks without a lot of adjustments. My Lakewood was .038" off center and low left. It took 3 hours to center bell and weld washers on bell to center the bell everytime to the block. This also prevents clutch problem if running a fork and linkage. For the starter I use studs in the bell housing and nuts to tight it to the bellhousing. I tried bolts without lock tite and the bolt loosened. Good luck with your setup

[66gtk]

Thank you all. I've purchased an OEM style starter to try. I'm also going to drill out a "sight hole" so I can see how it is engaging with the flywheel and can plug up the hole easily with a grommet. The last thing I want is to do another flywheel ring gear anytime soon!

[jetblue69]

Originally Posted by 66gtk

Thank you all. I've purchased an OEM style starter to try. I'm also going to drill out a "sight hole" so I can see how it is engaging with the flywheel and can plug up the hole easily with a grommet. The last thing I want is to do another flywheel ring gear anytime soon!

I run stock starters on all my performance engines unless it's got some ridiculous compression ratio. I just buy a good NAPA starter. ZERO issues + a lifetime warranty! And I don't have to order one out of a catalog/online if it takes a crap.

I prefer the KISS principle

K eep
I t
S imple
S tupid

[rodneym]

Originally Posted by cobrakiwi

IMO these guys make a great starter, I have never had a failure with one of there starters to date.

Welcome to RobbMc Performance Products

Excellent fuel pumps and regulators, too.

[Kramer]

Tried them all- I like the RobbMC the best- PM if u want to discuss

[66gtk]

The OEM starter bolted up with no issue and there was a TON of room to work with, so I don't know why a previous decision was made to go with the mini-starter. Works great, and cheap, too! Mine was in stock at my local O'Reilys.

[Grubby]

66gtk,

Does your car have an aluminum block? That is the usual reason a stock starter won't fit. They have more material areas that interfere with the starter.


John

[66gtk]

Originally Posted by Grubby

66gtk,

Does your car have an aluminum block? That is the usual reason a stock starter won't fit. They have more material areas that interfere with the starter.


John

Thanks John. No, it's an old school iron block (: