New FE build BBM block and heads

[jkg2101]

it is interesting that Kirkham had to do the same thing to their starter when they published their assembly guide years back

it is also interesting that Powermaster tech experts say they are happy with less than complete overlap of starter to flywheel ring gear because less chance for starter to bind? i'll see what they say tomorrow.

[jkg2101]

well, the folks at powermaster starters were super nice. they sent me out a new mounting plate with 0.150" milled off the mounting surface, so the starter now lines up perfectly with the flywheel. It is less than 1/8" away at rest, and fully meshes when running, as seen in pics below. i think this is more overlap/meshing than they recommend, but it is what I asked them for.

in theory, this should conclude my engine build. off to install bellhousing, trans, carb, fuel lines, and then start her up.

[jkg2101]

As a final note, for reference for anyone using a quicktime bellhousing:

I adjusted the bellhousing to optimize trans runout, and then installed the headers and clutch and trans and driveshaft, and then finally got around to installing the starter after all the test fitting. with the bellhousing in place, the starter holes in the block plate (the thick metal plate between the bellhousing and block) did not line up perfectly with the threads in the bellhousing! I couldnt start the bolts. uggh.

i thought I would have to drill out the holes in the block plate, which really cant be done well with the bellhousing (and thus transmission) in place. but i ended up taking a tap, and running it backwards through the mounting holes in the bellhousing (the bolt holes for the starter are threaded all the way through the bellhousing, so i tapped from the trans side of the bellhousing all the way through the block plate), and thus tapping the off-center holes in the block plate. Since it was only off-center a little bit, this worked, so i could thread in the bolts through the starter now.

If i had to remove the bellhousing, and transmission, just to mount the starter, I would have had a tantrum. there is not a lot of room to access the starter bolts (especially not the bottom one so close to the frame), so I see why kirkham recommended installing the starter before installing the engine.

[FUNFER2]

Great build, any updates ?

I can only dream of building and owning a Kirkham.

[jkg2101]

thanks for asking
i'll add some follow up info, which maybe will help someone else in the future

The oil dipstick was a surprise. I used a stock short metal dipstick in the stock location from a 60's ford of some sort. It ended up running into the brake fluid reservoirs, which are mounted on the side of the engine compartment.

So I bought the expensive Lokar flexible tube dipstick for FE, which attached to a header bolt and worked just fine.

[jkg2101]

When I started it, I had a few surprises.

The relatively thin exhaust gaskets (cheap ones that come in an FE gasket kit) leaked all over - the Kirkham headers use individual pipes, and the mounting flanges are relatively narrow. I bought expensive graphite thick gaskets, and that dramatically reduced, but did not eliminate the leak. Given how loud the exhaust is, you can't hear any leak now, but i can see a tiny trace of soot in select spots.

[jkg2101]

The biggest problem on start up was a pretty significant rear main seal leak. I have a good PCV system, creating a nice vacuum in the block, so it was not related to that.

In the end, I had to pull the pan in the car, and remove the rear main cap. This is tough to do on any FE, but especially hard with the frame crossmember in the way. I made a custom puller device, and rocking it back and forth helped a lot.

Blair was nice enough to give me a special rear main seal that he customized to better seal. He thinks the rear seals these days are not what they used to be, but i wouldnt be surprised if the dimensions of the RPM crank are a tiny bit off. The crank was a tiny bit off at the flywheel end for mounting, and required some slight sanding by me, as well as at the balancer mounting location.

I also had a nice oil leak at the remote oil mounting block, which was a billet aluminum piece from Precision Oil Pumps. I couldnt get those guys to answer their phone or my email, so I bought one from somewhere online (maybe moroso?) and it is not quite as pretty but does not leak at all.

[jkg2101]

Then my rebuilt toploader decided it doesnt want to stay in 3rd gear, and it wont shift into fourth while moving, so I had to pull that back out, which actually isnt that hard once you take the seats out

[jkg2101]

some other interesting points:

i am running the engine with a vintage (rebuilt) ford dual point distributor. I set up the mechanical advance to give a total of 20 degrees of advance, and I only have a light spring, so I run about 16 degrees at idle (1000 rpm) and 36 total by 2000. I probably will increase timing a bit, since the engine seems to like it

I added a complete MSD system. I increased the spark gap and used a fancier coil, and it made absolutely no difference in any way I could tell. SO i removed it all and went back to old fashioned points. You can all make fun of me for that all you want, but I have never been stranded by points, but I have had an MSD unit crap out after less than 1000 miles, which totally shuts you down.

[jkg2101]

Final note for now: I am using a cam with a lot of lift, and a lot of duration. It really is incredible above 3000 rpm. If I could do it all over again, I would go with less duration. It's just a little much for the street. While everyone talks about all the power they are making, I would be fine with less than max power in this street car. 400 hp in a 2000lb car is insane. 500 hp in a car like this is just foolish for the street. As much as I like the big block cobra concept, and it is my dream car, a small block cobra with a nice 289 hipo (like the K code mustangs used) engine would be plenty, and much more sensible, and more fun to drive.

[FUNFER2]

Isn't working all the gremlins out so much fun ! lol

I'm surprised that you've had problems with MSD's ?
In 30 years of racing, daily drivers, I've never had a issue with them.

[1795]

Originally Posted by jkg2101

some other interesting points:

i am running the engine with a vintage (rebuilt) ford dual point distributor. I set up the mechanical advance to give a total of 20 degrees of advance, and I only have a light spring, so I run about 16 degrees at idle (1000 rpm) and 36 total by 2000. I probably will increase timing a bit, since the engine seems to like it

I added a complete MSD system. I increased the spark gap and used a fancier coil, and it made absolutely no difference in any way I could tell. SO i removed it all and went back to old fashioned points. You can all make fun of me for that all you want, but I have never been stranded by points, but I have had an MSD unit crap out after less than 1000 miles, which totally shuts you down.

With my vintage MGB race car I had an older MSD box and it did not work well at all, the rev limiter was way off. I found a guy who would custom make a points distributor to the engine specs and I never had a problem with it. He said that after 4000 rpms a point distributor makes more HP than an electric one and he might be right.

Go with what works for you.

[Bobcat]

Interesting that you had the rear main seal leak . I had Blair redo my Ponds 482 a while back and he found a big leak when it was on the dyno. He changed rear seals several times and couldn`t get it to stop. Finally modified the seal to put more preload on it as the others went into the groove with almost no pressure . Ran the engine on his test stand for several hours and had no leakage . I put it in the car and had some " weepage " . I had no PCV system , just 4 breathers . Changed to a new PCV system by M/E Wagner and no more "weepage". This system allows you to tune the idle and cruise on the PCV system . Zero blow by ( vapors) out the breathers now and carb is easier to tune. You actually have a slight vaccum in the case at idle now.
Talked to Blair and he and I agree .... the seals available now aren`t what they used to be . Called seal mfg. and asked for tolerances/dimensions and was told no .... which is what I expected. FWIW , seals are now made in Mexico .
Good luck .... with what Blair did , you should have no problems .

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by jkg2101

some other interesting points:

i am running the engine with a vintage (rebuilt) ford dual point distributor. I set up the mechanical advance to give a total of 20 degrees of advance, and I only have a light spring, so I run about 16 degrees at idle (1000 rpm) and 36 total by 2000. I probably will increase timing a bit, since the engine seems to like it
.

You are not alone - I'm running a 63 dual point distributor in mine that I sent to Tim O'Connor to restore/rebuild and set up and so far it's been flawless. I think mine has 22 degrees centrifugal in it and I run 14 initial so not too much different. It looks much more vintage cool than that red topped, billet monster.

[hi-tech cobra]

Great Post. What brand of roller rocker did you use for the BBM block? Did you need to hone the lifter bores or were they good from the factory?

[blykins]

The lifter bores are pretty good about being on size, but I always run a ball hone through them to put a cross hatch on them.

All y'all need some of my rocker arms.

[FUNFER2]

The lifter bores are pretty good about being on size, but I always run a ball hone through them to put a cross hatch on them.

Does that keep some oil in the bores to lubricate the lifters ?

[Anthony]

Originally Posted by jkg2101

it is interesting that Kirkham had to do the same thing to their starter when they published their assembly guide years back

it is also interesting that Powermaster tech experts say they are happy with less than complete overlap of starter to flywheel ring gear because less chance for starter to bind? i'll see what they say tomorrow.

Yes, had same issue with a powermaster starter. I thought it ruined the ring gear. Switched to a another starter, no problems ever since. Of all the times I've installed new starters, that was the only time I had issues. Will never buy another powermaster product.

as above, also issues with MSD distributors and Digital 6 boxes. Again, no more MSD.

[FFR428]

Thanks for all the details on the starter!! I'm using a QT bell. Good to know about the starter flange needing to be milled. I'm a year or so off from this point. But keeping notes. I've been out of the FE loop for a few years. Fantastic looking engine and Cobra!!