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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2018, 05:49 AM
davids2toys's Avatar
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Cobra Make, Engine: ERA, 428, 4 speed Toploader, Jag rear, Red with White stripes
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Patrick,
I was only referring to the hoses coming out of the valve covers and routed around to get to the carb. I have never seen your set-up, looks real clean! Very nice. So is that your only PCV source, the intake valley and nothing from the Valve covers? I see a hose running somewhere from your VC breather, can't really tell from your pic. After reading Rockbit's post I think I understand now what you have going on. My eyes are going I guess! I thought the separator in the pic was the PCV valve gizmo.
On my 2005 mustang I had to install a really nice puke tank from JLT to cure carbon buildup in back of the throttle body that is exposed to the intake manifold
So, what have you noticed for advantages over what I have? I just have a PCV stuck in the manifold and the hose going to the carb, nothing from my valve covers and no puke tank of any kind. Will this one location and set-up do the job for me or is this bad thing?
Thanks
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ERA#698 428, 4 speed Toploader, 3:31 Jag rear

Last edited by davids2toys; 09-17-2018 at 06:04 AM..
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2018, 08:22 AM
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Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys View Post
Patrick,
I was only referring to the hoses coming out of the valve covers and routed around to get to the carb. I have never seen your set-up, looks real clean!

...can't really tell from your pic.

...So, what have you noticed for advantages over what I have?
Here is a pic from the top, with handy labels for old men like us with failing eyesight. You can see I take my vacuum from the base of the carb through a little black hose, through a copper tube that is carefully bent to allow me to go down through the base of the Turkey Pan, then straight back through another small black hose to the black Moroso oil/air separator. You can see that separator, which is a two part screw on can, is held in place via the aluminum bracket that is held down to the manifold via one half inch bolt over to the right. From the Moroso separator, a longer black hose goes over to the adjustable ME Wagner PCV valve that is in the cap on the passenger side valve cover cap. It's a beautiful job, if I do say so myself.

The main advantage that I have noticed is that it, along with a secondary idle speed adjustment screw that allows cracking open my secondaries, allows just the right amount of air coming in through the Holley during "HOT" idling and barely-off-idle cruising so that I have consistency in my air/fuel ratio. Before doing all of that, I had the age-old problem of the idle being too rich when the under hood temperatures got really hot. If I turned the primary idle up, then I was in the transfer slot, causing other problems. The combination of the adjustable Wagner PCV and the secondary adjustment screw fixed all of my hot idle problems. A thread showing pics of my modification for that is found here: Best Way to set the idle mix on a 4160

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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2018, 06:28 AM
davids2toys's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
Here is a pic from the top, with handy labels for old men like us with failing eyesight. You can see I take my vacuum from the base of the carb through a little black hose, through a copper tube that is carefully bent to allow me to go down through the base of the Turkey Pan, then straight back through another small black hose to the black Moroso oil/air separator. You can see that separator, which is a two part screw on can, is held in place via the aluminum bracket that is held down to the manifold via one half inch bolt over to the right. From the Moroso separator, a longer black hose goes over to the adjustable ME Wagner PCV valve that is in the cap on the passenger side valve cover cap. It's a beautiful job, if I do say so myself.

The main advantage that I have noticed is that it, along with a secondary idle speed adjustment screw that allows cracking open my secondaries, allows just the right amount of air coming in through the Holley during "HOT" idling and barely-off-idle cruising so that I have consistency in my air/fuel ratio. Before doing all of that, I had the age-old problem of the idle being too rich when the under hood temperatures got really hot. If I turned the primary idle up, then I was in the transfer slot, causing other problems. The combination of the adjustable Wagner PCV and the secondary adjustment screw fixed all of my hot idle problems. A thread showing pics of my modification for that is found here: Best Way to set the idle mix on a 4160

Hi Patrick,
This one thread has had issues, every time I went to follow it or post I would get site not available, but it was only for this thread, all others worked fine.
So, there is no pic that you said you posted. Also, I did post an edit to my my post after looking at your orig pic, After I looked at your first pic much better I saw that you were going to the valve cover. I now don't see my edit, or your orig pic, or the second pic that you posted. Can you re-post your pics?
Thanks...Dave
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Last edited by davids2toys; 10-04-2018 at 06:54 AM..
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2018, 07:04 AM
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